Considering PM 66 fold up outfeed table

[huckster]

Howdy all!

So, I like this guys basic design here:

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/my-new-outfeed-table/

see the note at the bottom of the site "old outfeed table"

It's basic and functional and I need something that folds down from time to time.

I'm just wondering what would be a good large flat material to use for the table. I guess it's about 1-1/2" thick. Any idea where I can buy something like that in the Raleigh area?

~Huck
[h=2][/h]

 

[SubGuy]

Don't think that's solid. Looks like it has a ledger around it. Probably quality ply. I would put a board under the slots. You could use 3/4 ply and put a few stiffeners underneath like floor joist.

 

[KenOfCary]

If you want 1-1/2" thick material just glue two pieces of 3/4 MDF together - will stay perfectly flat and smooth as long as you don't get it wet. Will be heavy though, which might be a good or bad thing.

 

[SteveHall]

..."old outfeed table"...It's basic and functional and I need something that folds down from time to time.

I prefer the outfeed table be physically attached to the saw so it can't accidentally move away or tilt when I'm feeding over it. The Powermatic 66 is a big saw, so it could easily support one entire side of an outfeed table like mine...

I have an old Delta contractor's saw with a motor that sticks out the back. So I fastened three steel angles below the saw top that extended 12", just past the motor. On the angles is mounted a short 13" outfeed table. But then I hinged a second 30" piece off the first. You can see these pieces in a picture from another thread:

My top is melamine-faced particle board edged in oak on a lumber sub structure. It uses two shop-built folding table legs on each corner, hinged and locked up with cheap box stays. When up, I have a 43" long outfeed table tied to the saw so it never moves. But the second piece folds down to just clear the floor and shorten the saw to only a few inches longer than it would be with the motor. (My whole shop theoretically folds away so compactness when not in use is important to me.)

Another benefit of having the outfeed table fixed to the saw is that you can carefully route slots into it for miter gauge and sled rails that fit perfectly. And the table with legs helps my light contractor's saw feel more stable, too.

 

[sawman101]

Some great ideas for an outfeed table! Thanks for sharing guys!

 

[huckster]

> My top is melamine-faced particle board edged in oak on a lumber sub structure.

Cool. So did you have to laminate that piece together? i.e. melamine to some substrate or did you buy it already glued etc?

~Huck

 

[SteveHall]

>My top is melamine-faced particle board edged in oak on a lumber sub structure.

Cool. So did you have to laminate that piece together? i.e. melamine to some substrate or did you buy it already glued etc

I just used basic melamine-faced particle board from a big box store ($35 for a 4' x 8' x 3/4" sheet).

It's heavy and doesn't hold up to moisture very well, but if you glue hardwood along all exposed edges and wax/finish them, it will hold up pretty well. Melamine board is flat, smooth, stable, and cheap--perfect for an outfeed table.

 

[farmerbw]

Steve, do you happen to have any other pics of your out feed table? Build or underside maybe?


B.

 

[SteveHall]

Steve, do you happen to have any other pics of your out feed table? Build or underside maybe?

I just took some that hopefully will better explain. Granted, this was hacked together in an afternoon more than a decade ago, mostly figured out as I went. But it matches the cast table height perfectly, is strong, flat, straight, smooth, and still serves me well.

An overall view of the saw with folding outfeed table extended. (This is a Delta 36-682, 1-1/2 HP, left-tilt contractor's saw with a cast steel top extension on the left and a 30" wide plastic laminate Biesemeyer fence extension on the right.)

A view of the underside. The left-most of three 1-1/2" x 1/16" steel angles can be seen screwed up into the saw fence's steel shelf at the front. It extends about 12" beyond the cast top at the back where it is screwed onto the fence's other steel angle (middle screw) and into a micro outfeed table (last screw visible).

A second view of the underside from the front, this time to the right side. Here, two of the steel angles can be seen. (Most of the other wood and fasteners seen here are part of the saw's wood/plastic laminate Biesemeyer fence extension table.)

The underside of the extension leaf from the back. Five door hinges mount the folding portion of the table to the fixed part. You can also see a 1-1/2" piece of aluminum angle that ties the three steel angles together. This wasn't really necessary but I wanted confidence that the extension wouldn't bow under load.

Two more hinges fasten the legs to the extension. These are shop made off-set legs, inverted to each other so they nest when folded. Simple box lid stays keep them extended.

When folded, there's still a helpful amount of outfeed added by the fixed portion:

A detail of the folded legs nested when the extension is down. The leg tips are simply a large hex machine screw in a tee nut. They give the extension a solid feeling in contact with the concrete floor.

When folded down, the extension just clears the motor and the floor. You can see two screws here that fasten up into the top through intermediate supports. The right support was further complicated because the steel angle needed a 1/2" shim (visible) below the saw fence angle to match the height of the front fence angle. I also wanted a larger bearing area for the top so the right support is an "L" shape to contour back in to the fence extension angle.

I hope that's enough to explain, but please let me know if I've missed anything obvious or there are further questions.