Clocks: Mounting mechanical movement to dial face?

[marinosr]

I'm building one of Isaac Youngs' shaker wall clocks. I scored this mechanical movement for a song on eBay, 20% of retail, but when I got it, I realized that it is a front-mount movement, i.e. it will be screwed into the dial. I wasn't anticipating this, and I had initially planned the clock to have a paper dial backed by some thin stock, but now I obviously need to do something different. I increased the thickness of the backing board to 1/4" but I'm still trying to figure out the best way to mount the movement to the dial. Requirements are that the screws can't be seen from the front, the dial backing board can't be any thicker (the hand post needs to poke through a set amount), and it should be easily removed for servicing. Any thoughts on how to make this work? I initially thought, threaded brass inserts, but I can't find them in 1/4" lengths for my application.

Also post pics of your nice clocks if you haven't already! I've really enjoyed looking through the older threads of clock builds.

 

[ehpoole]

I don't know that yon will find threaded inserts that short as they do tend to be relatively deep, even for smaller bolts, but you always have the option of epoxying in ordinary nuts if you need a shorter threaded "insert". If you drill a hole slightly narrower than the corners of your nut, but wide enough to accept the span between the flats, then you will probably find that you can press fit (as in hammer) the nuts into place without having to actually chisel out the hex shape, but test in a scrap bit of wood first to ensure your hole is of acceptable diameter as the degree to which you can get away with just hammering them into an undersized round hole will vary with the species of wood you are using (for example, Purpleheart will be less forgiving than Maple, which is less forgiving than Poplar, which is less forgiving than many soft pines, etc.).

Good luck!

 

[KenOfCary]

Not sure what size clock mechanism this is, but most large (as in grandfather) clocks have the mechanism mounted on top of a 1/2" to 3/4" piece of wood with a slot cut into it for the chains to hang down through. The face plate is then mounted to this board so that the whole unit slides into slots (or dadoes) on the sides - this can then be slid out for service.

Not sure if that is useful information or not in your case. The Wood Whisperer has a really good set of videos about building a Craftsman Style Grandfather clock but unfortunately it is one of their Guild Projects and you have to purchase the plan in order to view it all.

 

[TENdriver]

Richard, could you use a thicker stock and route out a cavity for the mechanism?

 

[marinosr]

Good thoughts everybody. The movement is pretty small, 4*4" and weighs about two lbs. Or so.

I am attracted to Ken's solution except I don't think the shelf would look great with side windows I was planning to put in (so you can view the movement) and it would make placing the gong more difficult. It seems the most straightforward and secure way though. Aesthetically I like Ethan's suggestion but I'm nervous about the nuts failing, which probably wreck the movement. I was also considering filling down some 3/8" length inserts after I drove them in. Tendriver, that would work if I could find shorter mount standoffs but I don't think I'll be able to get something like that.

I'll keep mulling over my options. Thanks for the advice!

 

[Wyatt Co.]

Move the brackets to the back and turn them around. They appear to be stamped steel so they can be flattened or even bent more to set your own mounting depth and providing enough clearance of the backside items.

 

[marinosr]

Good idea Bill. I'm going to scheme on the best way to make this work.

 

[Wyatt Co.]

In all honesty, I feel you're over thinking/ over scheming. The transition from from face mount to rear mount isn't trivial per se. If it were me and I wanted to display the works as you've noted, I'd ditch the stamped steel mounting brackets and make some nice brass stand-offs. All the while mounting the works to the rear panel, not the front.

 

[danmart77]

Move the brackets to the back and turn them around. They appear to be stamped steel so they can be flattened or even bent more to set your own mounting depth and providing enough clearance of the backside items.

My first thought tool Those arms look reversible and that would really change the install.