I had put it off as long as I could. Last Sunday I had Gator come over to brainstorm on the best way to handle the ductwork plumbing. We came to the conclusion that cutting square holes and covering them later with panels would be the easiest, although not the most elegant.
Since it was raining Friday, it seemed like a good idea to parade back and forth between the shop and under the shop, so I wore myself out Friday tearing up the floor and fitting joints and cutting pipe.
Here's a pic of the ductwork coming through the floor at the back of the tablesaw. All of the projecting ducts are intentionally too long, and therefore stick up too high. I'll cut each to the correct length later. This was just to get the underfloor stuff fitted out. I also just stuck the blast gates over the pipe because COLD air escaped into the warmth of my man-cave.
Here's the one for the bandsaw:
And this is at the jointer.
You can see the rectangular hole (can a hole be a rectangle? I guess so) that will be the floor sweep.
Here's the melamine half-lap box with the register boot epoxied in place. The clamp is holding the PVC collar to the sheet metal while the epoxy cures.
In a thread hijack about rabbet planes I made some comments about how I screwed up the dimensions. Here's a front-on shot of the half-lap box.
Remember, if you make a half-lap box, you need to make the sides 3 times the rabbet dimension.
Here's the assembly for the router station. There'll be a 6" duct into the side of the router table, and a 2.5" hose up to the fence area.
And here's the plumbing for the PM66 and the 22-580 planer. I will have to choke down to 4" for the planer, and I may or may not expand the port on the PM66 to 6". As hard as it was to cut holes in my hardwood floor, drilling a big 6" hole in that saw is going to require some courage. Possibly the liquid kind. I'm on the fence about whether to do it, and think that I'll see what happens with the choked down plumbing and if that doesn't work well, we'll see.
After I cut the rectangular opening (is that better?) for the floor sweep, I realized that I was too close to the perimeter wall and the sill plate was going to conflict with my fancy half-lap plumbing. So I took a break, ate breakfast, and continued planning. I wouln up cutting 4" off the depth of the half-lap box, and used some flex pipe to make up the vertical offset.
Here's the opening for the floor sweep, which will get a simple hinged cover as damper/blast gate.
And here's a shot of the crawl space.
The next step is to use my expensive acrylic tubing to make pass-through panels, then mount the above-floor plumbing, and then wire up the motor. I continue to think of different ways to activate the system. I'm presently thinking of a remote, combined with a magnetic proximity switch on the floor sweep, and either magnetic proximity on the blast gates, or perhaps a simple light switch controlling a low voltage (24vac) circuit that will relay up to 115 which will relay up to 230 to drive the motor. The jury, like Elvis, has left the building and has not reached a verdict on this.
The whole install is comprised of long sweep elbows, wyes and 45s. I will tell you, getting the correctl lengths and locations for the pipes, wyes, long sweeps and 45s was a challenge. At one time I had three measuring tapes and two laser lines going to determine where a critical wye had to be placed. As you can see, for most of the machinery, there will be no more than a foot or so of flex. The rest is solid D-2729.
Now, I am sure glad that's over. If y'all plan to do under-ducting, I'll be happy to provide information and advice, but I think I've crawled under and fitted pipe enough for one life. Perhpas it's time for :drunken_s :drunken_s.
Since it was raining Friday, it seemed like a good idea to parade back and forth between the shop and under the shop, so I wore myself out Friday tearing up the floor and fitting joints and cutting pipe.
Here's a pic of the ductwork coming through the floor at the back of the tablesaw. All of the projecting ducts are intentionally too long, and therefore stick up too high. I'll cut each to the correct length later. This was just to get the underfloor stuff fitted out. I also just stuck the blast gates over the pipe because COLD air escaped into the warmth of my man-cave.
Here's the one for the bandsaw:
And this is at the jointer.
You can see the rectangular hole (can a hole be a rectangle? I guess so) that will be the floor sweep.
Here's the melamine half-lap box with the register boot epoxied in place. The clamp is holding the PVC collar to the sheet metal while the epoxy cures.
In a thread hijack about rabbet planes I made some comments about how I screwed up the dimensions. Here's a front-on shot of the half-lap box.
Remember, if you make a half-lap box, you need to make the sides 3 times the rabbet dimension.
Here's the assembly for the router station. There'll be a 6" duct into the side of the router table, and a 2.5" hose up to the fence area.
And here's the plumbing for the PM66 and the 22-580 planer. I will have to choke down to 4" for the planer, and I may or may not expand the port on the PM66 to 6". As hard as it was to cut holes in my hardwood floor, drilling a big 6" hole in that saw is going to require some courage. Possibly the liquid kind. I'm on the fence about whether to do it, and think that I'll see what happens with the choked down plumbing and if that doesn't work well, we'll see.
After I cut the rectangular opening (is that better?) for the floor sweep, I realized that I was too close to the perimeter wall and the sill plate was going to conflict with my fancy half-lap plumbing. So I took a break, ate breakfast, and continued planning. I wouln up cutting 4" off the depth of the half-lap box, and used some flex pipe to make up the vertical offset.
Here's the opening for the floor sweep, which will get a simple hinged cover as damper/blast gate.
And here's a shot of the crawl space.
The next step is to use my expensive acrylic tubing to make pass-through panels, then mount the above-floor plumbing, and then wire up the motor. I continue to think of different ways to activate the system. I'm presently thinking of a remote, combined with a magnetic proximity switch on the floor sweep, and either magnetic proximity on the blast gates, or perhaps a simple light switch controlling a low voltage (24vac) circuit that will relay up to 115 which will relay up to 230 to drive the motor. The jury, like Elvis, has left the building and has not reached a verdict on this.
The whole install is comprised of long sweep elbows, wyes and 45s. I will tell you, getting the correctl lengths and locations for the pipes, wyes, long sweeps and 45s was a challenge. At one time I had three measuring tapes and two laser lines going to determine where a critical wye had to be placed. As you can see, for most of the machinery, there will be no more than a foot or so of flex. The rest is solid D-2729.
Now, I am sure glad that's over. If y'all plan to do under-ducting, I'll be happy to provide information and advice, but I think I've crawled under and fitted pipe enough for one life. Perhpas it's time for :drunken_s :drunken_s.
