Started with panel glue ups, sides, tops, drawer front panels stored in clamps and cauls for app 1 month.
After sizing, the next step was dados for the dividers and rabbets for the back. Before final surfacing, strips were ripped off the front and back of the side panels to use for divider fronts. This keeps the color and grain pattern consistent. The moulding frames were taken off the tops.
Carcase was traditional half blind dovetails, the top consisted of 4 and 6" boards rather than one solid board. I made a mistake here, the depth of the dovetails is too deep, and the side developed some cracks in a few places. Easily fixed, tho.
Bottom:
Next were the dovetails for the dividers. After sizing the dividers to the dados, a dovetail was made using a paring block. The dovetail is scribed, the side is sawn just like you would or a half blind, and finished with chisels.
Next step was the moulding frames. The moulding frames consist of a front and 2 sides. The rear rail is mounted separately merely as a spacer to avoid any problems with movement. Probably not necessary, but I didn't feel like doing mortise and tenons. The miters are joined by cutting a groove and using a football shaped spline.
The frames are temporarily mounted to the sides and they are planed to match the offset. This takes the pressure off getting a perfect miter. The profile is routed using a cove bit. Clamping is a little tricky, you just adjust the pressures so the miters are tight.
That's basically it, guys. The feet are simple, clamping blocks and miters. A corner block was installed too. (yes I should have cut the profiles first
I'll do a separate post on the drawers and cockbeading. Thanks for looking!!
After sizing, the next step was dados for the dividers and rabbets for the back. Before final surfacing, strips were ripped off the front and back of the side panels to use for divider fronts. This keeps the color and grain pattern consistent. The moulding frames were taken off the tops.
Carcase was traditional half blind dovetails, the top consisted of 4 and 6" boards rather than one solid board. I made a mistake here, the depth of the dovetails is too deep, and the side developed some cracks in a few places. Easily fixed, tho.
Bottom:
Next were the dovetails for the dividers. After sizing the dividers to the dados, a dovetail was made using a paring block. The dovetail is scribed, the side is sawn just like you would or a half blind, and finished with chisels.
Next step was the moulding frames. The moulding frames consist of a front and 2 sides. The rear rail is mounted separately merely as a spacer to avoid any problems with movement. Probably not necessary, but I didn't feel like doing mortise and tenons. The miters are joined by cutting a groove and using a football shaped spline.
The frames are temporarily mounted to the sides and they are planed to match the offset. This takes the pressure off getting a perfect miter. The profile is routed using a cove bit. Clamping is a little tricky, you just adjust the pressures so the miters are tight.
That's basically it, guys. The feet are simple, clamping blocks and miters. A corner block was installed too. (yes I should have cut the profiles first
I'll do a separate post on the drawers and cockbeading. Thanks for looking!!
