Chat Guest Speaker Transcript: Scott Smith on Milling and QSRO

[froglips]

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First, let me say the biggest THANK YOU Scott!! permitted by the software!

Scott was the first ever Guest Speaker on our Thursday night chats.

Scott answered questions from logs, veneers, sealing, ponds and even how to build the Guinness Book of World Records most monstrous workbench!

What follows is a lightly edited copy of last nights chat.

Its worth a read, there are really a ton of gems that Scott shared with us.

Enjoy!
Jim

PART 1

[froglips] 7:52 pm: ..... and on that note........
[froglips] 7:53 pm: Thanks for coming out tonight!
[froglips] 7:53 pm: We are kicking off our 2010 Guest Speaker Series with the
one and only Scott Smith
[MarkE] 7:53 pm: :clap:
[froglips] 7:54 pm: Scott, if you'd like to give a quick overview on your
amazing operations, then we can dive into the posted questions, then open the
floor for more.
[froglips] 7:54 pm:
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f23/new-member-chat-guest-speaker-series-feat
uring-scott-smith-34147/
[scsmith42] 7:54 pm: Howdy all! I'm glad to be here tonight.
[scsmith42] 7:54 pm: I operate a sawmill and dry kiln outside of Raleigh.
[scsmith42] 7:55 pm: Additionally, I have a nice 5,200 sq ft shop that includes
some cool production equipment. Namely a 25" jointer/planer, 37" wide belt
sander, 16" horizontal resaw, an old Mattison 202 straight line rip saw, and a
Baker 4 head moulder.
[scsmith42] 7:56 pm: My specialty is quartersawn oak, but I also have flat and
riftswn oak as well as an assortment of other species.
[scsmith42] 7:57 pm: The floor is wide open as to questions; unless anybody has
something to ask up front I can start with some "pre-submittals" that Jim, Bob
and Jeff submitted on the thread. Does anybody have anything to ask up front?
[scsmith42] 7:57 pm: Going once...
[scsmith42] 7:57 pm: Going twice...
[froglips] 7:58 pm: 25" Jointer/Planer... Dang (not a question persay)
[scsmith42] 7:58 pm: The Oliver is a beast. It'
[MarkE] 7:58 pm: SOLD
[scsmith42] 7:58 pm: It is one of my favorite tools to use because of the speed
and quality of cut.
[froglips] 7:59 pm: excellent, let me start by asking the first posted question
[froglips] 7:59 pm: (mine, coincedentally)
[froglips] 8:00 pm: Well, I have always wondered what wood you'd suggest for a
single slab workbench top.

Maybe 3" to 4" thick, 24" wide and at least 6' to 8' long.

What would be some of the issues around such a hunk of wood? I assume you would
not want one that has the pith due to twisting issues?

If one board is not possible, how about two boards?
[scsmith42] 8:00 pm: Jim, in answer to your question, I would suggest a
vertical grain (quartersawn) species.
[scsmith42] 8:01 pm: Oak would work, as would cherry, maple, or a host of other
woods. I would suggest something fairly hard.
[scsmith42] 8:01 pm: You can use one board. I actually have a workbench project
in my shop right now. It is 4' wide, 6' long, and 14" thick of riftsawn oak.
[froglips] 8:02 pm: dang, dang and dang
[scsmith42] 8:02 pm: And before someone claims that I made a typo... I didn't.
The top really is 14" thick. I made it from one of the logs that you see behind
me in my avatar.
[mquan01] 8:02 pm: how much does someting like that weigh
[scsmith42] 8:02 pm: A couple of thousand pounds.
[mquan01] 8:02 pm: why so thick?
[scsmith42] 8:03 pm: Jim, back to your question - yes you would want to avoid
the pith. A couple of vertical grain 12" wide planks would be best.
[scsmith42] 8:03 pm: mquan - because I can....
[arnie] 8:03 pm: So it is a matter of preference
[froglips] 8:05 pm: i know whats at the top of my christmas list now
[scsmith42] 8:05 pm: Yup. The most practical thickness would be around 4" or
so. Re my 14" bench, since I own a sawmill and some heavy equipment, I thought
that it would be fun to do something different. It's worth it just to see (and
hear) peoples reactions when they see it.
[scsmith42] 8:05 pm: Jim, any other questions re the workbench top? It would be
nice to do it Roubo style.
[froglips] 8:05 pm: you read my mind
[froglips] 8:06 pm: We can come back to this topic, on to Woodartz question:
[froglips] 8:06 pm: If I obtain some nicely kiln dried wood what can I do to
prevent cupping, twisting, etc. when it sits in my garage shop and adjusts to
the moisture content of its new environment?

I'm considering using oak for an outdoor bench project. Would Red or White Oak
be the best choice for this project?
How long does it take to dry a load of oak in your kiln set up? What is the
typical moisture loss from start to finish?
[scsmith42] 8:06 pm: Re the 4" workbench top, it would be best to let it air
dry for a year or two before assembly it.
[scsmith42] 8:07 pm: Moving on...
[scsmith42] 8:08 pm: The best way to store KD wood is to flat stack it. It
should not be placed directly on the concrete, as it can absorb moisture
through the slab (unless you have a great vapor barrier underneath the slab).
You may get a little movement on the top board, but otherwise the lumber should
stay flat.
[scsmith42] 8:08 pm: Re the outdoor bench project, white oak is the best
choice. Red oak is an open pored wood, and does not last well out in the
weather (unless you're in the desert). Some of Ivey's cypress would be a great
choice too, as it is a nice soft wood and does not spliter easily.
[Canuck] 8:09 pm: Then no stickers at all required for kiln dried (except at
the bottom, Scott?
[scsmith42] 8:09 pm: Wayne, that is correct.
[scsmith42] 8:10 pm: There are a few different dimensions to consider though.
First, when the wood comes out of the kiln it will have a moisture content of
less than 10%. Depending upon the environment, it may pick some back up. If you
flat stack it, the rate of gaining - or losing moisture is much slower.
[scsmith42] 8:11 pm: Now, let's say that you want your boards to acclimate to
your shop (maybe they have been stored somewhere and have gained some MC), and
that your shop is humidity controlled. In that instance, you may want to
sticker the boards so that they can lose the extra moisture.
[scsmith42] 8:12 pm: If the boards are already below 10%, then the best thing
is usually to flat stack them.
[scsmith42] 8:12 pm: Regarding time in the kiln, each species of wood has a
recommended drying rate based upon it's thickness.
[mquan01] 8:13 pm: scott, is that true for most woods?
[scsmith42] 8:13 pm: Yes.
[scsmith42] 8:13 pm: As long as they are already KD and below 10% MC.
[scsmith42] 8:14 pm: Regarding drying schedules, a species such as white oak
has a targeted daily drying rate of 2.5%.
[Jeff Mills] 8:15 pm: <--- raises hand
[froglips] 8:15 pm: nice! thats Jeff's first question!
[scsmith42] 8:15 pm: based upon a 4/4 thickness. 6/4 WO's drying rate is .6 of
the 4/4 rate, and 8/4 oak's is .4 of the 4/4 dring rate.
[Mike Davis] 8:15 pm: wait, what good is kiln drying if the wood is already 10%?
[scsmith42] 8:16 pm: Typically green oak has a moisture content of 60%, or
thereabouts. Thus, in a perfect world it would take 20 days at 2.5% per day to
reduce the moisture content from 60% to 10%. The reality is that it takes
somewhat longer.
[scsmith42] 8:16 pm: Mike and Jeff, I'll get to your questions in just a second.
[Jeff Mills] 8:17 pm: I'm good thanks
[scsmith42] 8:17 pm: The most critical portion of the kiln drying process is
the time between when the wood is green and when it drops down to 35% MC. Most
of the damage to wood can occur then.
[scsmith42] 8:18 pm: I've seen some differences in the drying rate between flat
sawn and quartersawn lumber. Typically quartersawn takes about 25% longer to
dry than the equivalent flatsawn boards.
[scsmith42] 8:19 pm: At the end of the kiln drying process, the kiln operator
will typically put the load through a "sterilizing" and "Conditioning" cycle.
[Mike Davis] 8:19 pm: could someone who was here from the start copy and paste
in an e-mail to me PLEASE?
[scsmith42] 8:19 pm: Sterilizing is done in order to kill any bugs in the wood.
Mike, this is why it is a good idea to put wood in the kiln even if it is at
10% MC.
[froglips] 8:19 pm: already on that mike
[Mike Davis] 8:20 pm: THANKS!
[scsmith42] 8:21 pm: Conditioning is done in order to equalize the MC
throughout the board. When you're drying, the outer portions of the wood dry
more quickly than the core. It is not uncommon to see a delta of 2% or more
between the core and the shell. Thus, if the core of the board is at 6%, the
shell may be at 8.5% MC. Conditioning equalizes the MC across the board.
[scsmith42] 8:22 pm: I'll pause for a second to see if anybody has a question...
[Jeff Mills] 8:22 pm: I have one
[scsmith42] 8:22 pm: Go for it!
[Ivey] 8:22 pm: I have 100
[Jeff Mills] 8:22 pm: hey Scott thanks
[scsmith42] 8:23 pm: <grin> Ivey, I've got all night!
[Jeff Mills] 8:23 pm: so for heavy oak - do you know what the MCLPD would be on
oak over 8/4 thick?
[Ivey] 8:23 pm: LOL I'll just read
[scsmith42] 8:23 pm: Jeff, it depends upon the thickness. For those wondering
what MCLPD stands for, it's "moisture content loss per day"
[Mike Davis] 8:24 pm: MOISTURE CONTENT LOSS PER DAY
[Mike Davis] 8:24 pm: beat me to it
[scsmith42] 8:24 pm: 8/4 oak is targeted at 1% if it is white oak, about 1.4%
if it is red oak.
[Jeff Mills] 8:24 pm: ok - can you point me in the right direction?
[Mike Davis] 8:25 pm: 1% per inch?
[Mike Davis] 8:25 pm: no 8/4 i see that
[scsmith42] 8:25 pm: Jeff, for a 12/4 or 16/ oak plank, I would suggest that
you air dry it in a cool location for about 1 - 2 years, and then slip it into
the kiln when it is below 25% MC.
[scsmith42] 8:26 pm: Mike, it's an exponential equation.
[Jeff Mills] 8:26 pm: a lot of folks ask for 16/ 4 thick lumber - every stick I
ever cut that thick cracked
[scsmith42] 8:26 pm: Jeff, I would also start the process in the fall, so that
the first six months of drying took place when the weather is cooler outside.
[scsmith42] 8:27 pm: The rate of drying is contingent upon the temperature, the
relative humidity, and the rate of air flow across the wood.
[Jeff Mills] 8:27 pm: yeah maybe wrap each board in burlap or something too?
[scsmith42] 8:27 pm: For a slow drying species such as oak or sycamore, if
you're going to air dry it's best to mill in the fall, so that the air drying
rate is slower for the first several months.
[Jeff Mills] 8:28 pm: good point on fall sawing - thanks
[scsmith42] 8:29 pm: All - one thing that is not widely understood about kiln
drying of hardwoods, is that you're not trying to "speed up the drying process"
during the first few weeks. If anything, on a species like oak your goal is to
slow down the drying rate so as to not cause damage (surface checks).
[scsmith42] 8:29 pm: ok. I"ll pause for a moment for some more questions.

SEE MORE IN THE NEXT POST:

 

[froglips]

PART 2

[scsmith42] 8:37 pm: ok.... does anybody have any other sawing/drying
questions? Considering that we have three millers on the chat right now, it's a
great opportunity!
[mquan01] 8:37 pm: If I need a bunch of 1/2" thick wood, is it best to obtain
5/4 and resaw it?
[TracyP] 8:38 pm: how much wood could a woodchuck......
[TracyP] 8:38 pm: sorry, had to do it
[Douglas Robinson] 8:38 pm: Douglas Robinson :hypno:Anyone got a good source of
6/4 White Oak?
[scsmith42] 8:38 pm: Re the 1/2" thick, most likely. HOwever.... one thing to
keep in mind is that as the wood acclimates in your shop there may be a
moisture content delta between the core and the shell of the board.
[erasmussen] 8:38 pm: Just wondering how the heck they dried something like the
mast's on the old sailing ships
[mquan01] 8:39 pm: thx
[Jeff Mills] 8:39 pm: me too earl - honestly I don't think wood that thick
would ever dry to the core
[scsmith42] 8:39 pm: As an example, if you have a 5/4 board, and the humidity
recently increased in your shop, the core may be at 8% and the shell at 10%.
When you resaw the 5/4 board into two thinner boards, they will have a
difference in MC% from face to face. This in turn will cause the wood to move.
[Douglas Robinson] 8:40 pm: Good night, kid time is coming!
[scsmith42] 8:40 pm: For that reason, it's best to closely check the MC% in
both the core and the shell (pin type meter), and make sure that they are very
close before resawing.
[mquan01] 8:40 pm: do you see 3/4 wood?
[mquan01] 8:41 pm: sell
[scsmith42] 8:41 pm: Another thing to do is to joint/plane the 5/4 board down
to 4/4 before resawing, or if you resaw the 5/4 board then after smoothing each
surface, take the extra wood down (planing) from the driest surface.
[scsmith42] 8:41 pm: I can take some 5/4 and joint/plane it down to 3/4, yess.
[scsmith42] 8:42 pm: There is a question that Jeff pre-submitted that I would
like to address, because it's a great question.
[scsmith42] 8:42 pm: It has to do with the benefits of using endgrain sealer on
green boards.
[mquan01] 8:42 pm: i was just wondering if 3/4 was a standard size or not -
appears it isnt
[scsmith42] 8:43 pm: 3/4 is a standard "S2S" size, but not a standard rough
sawn (RS) size. Most rough sawn lumber is either 4/4 or 5/4.
[mquan01] 8:43 pm: thx again
[scsmith42] 8:43 pm: If you're buying quartersawn lumber (QS) green, it's best
to buy it a little thicker because QS shrinks more in thickness than FS during
the drying process.
[scsmith42] 8:44 pm: Back to end sealer though, wood loses moisture more
quickly through the ends of boards than the face of boards. However, for the
highest quality drying you want to moisture to be evacuated through the face of
the board.
[scsmith42] 8:45 pm: Applying end sealer achieves two very important
objectives. First, it seals the ends of the boards, preventing moisture content
loss through there. That in turn will reduce the amount of end checks (splits)
that occur during the drying process.
[mquan01] 8:46 pm: what is a minimum size (diameter) of a tree that you would
cut up?
[scsmith42] 8:46 pm: The second very important benefit of end sealer has to do
with "Extractives" in the wood. Extractives are what gives the wood it's color,
similar to a dye. If you allow the moisture to escape through the ends of the
boards, it takes the extractives with it. By sealing the wood at the ends
though, the extractives are trapped in the cells as the moisture leaves through
the face, leaving you with a more colorful board.
[scsmith42] 8:47 pm: Re the minimum size, it depends upon the species and the
growth rate. Let me elaborate.
[scsmith42] 8:47 pm: I have a 36" oak log on my lot that came from a tree that
was 204 years old when it died.
[scsmith42] 8:48 pm: The tree sprouted in 1806.
[Jeff Mills] 8:48 pm: Extractives - I did not know that - Thanks Scott :luck:
[scsmith42] 8:48 pm: For the first fifty four years of it's life, this oak tree
only grew to a diameter of 6". Around 1860, the growth rate rapidly
accelerated, as evidenced by the wider growth rings.
[scsmith42] 8:50 pm: If you have a 16" log and it's 60 years old, you'll have
some nice, tight growth rings. If you have a 16" log and it came from a 20 year
old tree, most likely it will ahve a lot of "juvinile cells" in the wood which
will cause the boards to move a lot.
[Mike Davis] 8:50 pm: so, the denser core is more stable?
[scsmith42] 8:50 pm: Mike, in most species of hardwood, yes.
[scsmith42] 8:50 pm: Not so much the "core", but the denser growth rings.
[Mike Davis] 8:51 pm: core is usually less stable though?
[scsmith42] 8:51 pm: The flip side of this is that oak logs with wider growth
rings sometimes produce some better quartersawn figure.
[scsmith42] 8:52 pm: Depends upon yoru definition of the word "core". Usually I
would interpret that to be the pith wood, which is usually not very stable.
[Mike Davis] 8:52 pm: right
[Ivey] 8:52 pm: I have a w/oak burl that I need to saw ( Scott you have seen
it) it's about 40" accross it's widest point. I have never sawn a burl, should
I put end sealer on both faces after I saw it ,and how thick. I know pen
blanks, but I was thinking table tops..
[scsmith42] 8:52 pm: Mike, it may be more descriptive to speak of "heart wood",
pith wood, and sap wood.
[mquan01] 8:52 pm: so you really don't know if a tree is usable until you cut
it down and check the growth rings?
[Mike Davis] 8:53 pm: if the pith is much closer groth rings it will be more
stable?
[scsmith42] 8:53 pm: Not exactly. Rapidly growing trees usually grow straight
and tall. Sometimes you have to study the log to determine what the best use is
of the wood.
[Jeff Mills] 8:53 pm: I have a coring tool if you need to check the growth
rings on a standing tree
[mquan01] 8:53 pm: ok
[scsmith42] 8:54 pm: Ivey, burls contain a lot of end grain wood, so you want
to slow down the drying rate.
[Ivey] 8:55 pm: end sealer 10-4
[scsmith42] 8:55 pm: If you totally coat the burl with sealer, in essence you
are totally eliminating any moisture loss and preserving the wood.
[scsmith42] 8:55 pm: You may want to consider making veneer from the burl
instead of a table top. It would probably bring you a higher rate of return.
[Ivey] 8:55 pm: So where would be the best place to let it breath?
[mquan01] 8:55 pm: if you totally coat it, how does it dry?
[scsmith42] 8:56 pm: Re the total coating - it can't dry.
[Ivey] 8:57 pm: OK what would be the best way to saw it for veneer
[scsmith42] 8:57 pm: Ivey re the breathing, If you mill it for boards, etc,
then I would suggest milling it when the weather is cool and then storing it in
a cool, somewhat humid location (such as a basement) for an extended, slow
drying time. End grain wood (such as knots) tends to move all over as it dries,
and the slower the better.
[scsmith42] 8:58 pm: Slab it, resaw it, and stack the leaves in the order that
they come off with paper in-between them.
[Ivey] 8:58 pm: Slab it how thick
[Mike Davis] 8:59 pm: And band it tighty?
[Ivey] 8:59 pm: Like Jeff said thick boards split
[scsmith42] 8:59 pm: Probably a couple of inches to eas the handling.
[scsmith42] 9:00 pm: Mike, I would not band it because the banding will damage
the leaves. You can put weight on top of hte pile though. However, thin sliced
veneer will dry very quickly.
[Ivey] 9:00 pm: Will tut it under house
[scsmith42] 9:00 pm: The nice thing about veneer is that it dries very quickly.
If you slab it, coat it, and store it under the house, you can resaw it into
veneer as the orders come in.
[Ivey] 9:01 pm: 10-4
[Jeff Mills] 9:01 pm: Ivey whatervr you do - don't bury it in the saw dust pile
- that's experience talking
[scsmith42] 9:01 pm: My resaw has a carbide tipped blade, and maintains a
pretty close tolerance, so I can help you out with that. Optionally you can
resaw it on your sweet mill!
[scsmith42] 9:02 pm: Did I miss anybody's question?
[Ivey] 9:02 pm: Thanks Scott.. No Jeff we don't want to spald it
[Jeff Mills] 9:03 pm: it's also curl up like a potato chip
[scsmith42] 9:03 pm: Yup. All the more reason to weight the stack of leaves
after you mill the flitches.
[Jeff Mills] 9:03 pm: hey scott - I have an off the wall question if I may?
[scsmith42] 9:04 pm: Jeff, coming from you I would expecct no other kind...
[scsmith42] 9:04 pm: Shoot!
[Jeff Mills] 9:04 pm: log storage
[Jeff Mills] 9:04 pm: what the best way to store logs
[Jeff Mills] 9:04 pm: I mean they are big and thick
[scsmith42] 9:04 pm: Re log storage, the absolute best way is to store them
either in a pond or with a sprinkler on them.
[Jeff Mills] 9:05 pm: and loose to much moisture to fast
[scsmith42] 9:05 pm: This helps keep any checks from developing, and is the
preferred method from for storing veneer grade logs - the most valuable logs.
[Jeff Mills] 9:05 pm: pond - ok
[scsmith42] 9:06 pm: Certain species, such as oak, store well in the log even
w/o the pond treatment. You'll lose the sapwood, but the heartwood can stay
good for years.
[Jeff Mills] 9:06 pm: you would still want to seal the end grain before tossing
in the pond
[scsmith42] 9:06 pm: Most importantly, apply end sealer to the logs as soon as
possible after felling.
[Mike Davis] 9:06 pm: But you need some waterproof sealer?
[scsmith42] 9:07 pm: most logs will start to deteriorate - ie this is where
"spalted wood" comes from. Spalting results from the natural decay process in
the wood, and typically takes one good hot, humid summer.
[scsmith42] 9:07 pm: Mike, yes re the sealer.
[scsmith42] 9:08 pm: If you're storing the logs in a pond or kept wet, end
sealer is not quite as critical as if you're storing them dry. You'll want to
apply end sealer after removing them from the water though.
[CaptnA] 9:08 pm: hello all! Scott how soon after felling would you seal the
ends? I've cut redoak and the water literally runs out of them. wipe the water
and apply or what
[scsmith42] 9:08 pm: CaptnA, when I'm going to pick up fresh cut logs, I will
usually take the end sealer with me and apply it before transporting. This
really makes a difference in the board quality.
[Ivey] 9:08 pm: End seal befor you turn the saw off
[Jeff Mills] 9:09 pm: I can see Ivey with chainsaw in one hand and brush in the
other hand
[mquan01] 9:10 pm: do you ever have to reapply end seal?
[scsmith42] 9:10 pm: I have applied ens sealer post-milling, but prefer to
apply it to the log before milling. It's faster, and I use less sealer.
[Ivey] 9:10 pm: :grin:
[scsmith42] 9:10 pm: MQ - sometimes if you let the log sit for a few months,
yes.
[Canuck] 9:10 pm: Scott, On occasion, when I plane a rough sawn board I see
black streaking throughout its whole length. What is it?
[Jeff Mills] 9:10 pm: mineral streak?
[Ivey] 9:11 pm: Bolts
[scsmith42] 9:11 pm: Wayne, often times this is due to one of two things. A
mineral streak from the soil, or a nail or other metal that was in the log.
[scsmith42] 9:11 pm: Usually if it is a dark, black color it is due to metal in
the log. The black streak will only exist between the metal and the stump - not
above the metal in the log.
[Canuck] 9:12 pm: Thanks! Often wondered as the rough sawn surface looked fine.
[froglips] 9:12 pm: my blood has turned oak black
[froglips] 9:12 pm: learned that trick from ST. Roy
[scsmith42] 9:12 pm: Jim, I thought that it was green...
[froglips] 9:12 pm: hey now
[CaptnA] 9:13 pm: lol
[froglips] 9:13 pm: i'm from this here planet, despite the antennas
[scsmith42] 9:13 pm: I've got about 5 minutes left, any closing questions?
[CaptnA] 9:13 pm: hate I came so late - already made it worth my while
[mquan01] 9:13 pm: none here, but I really want to thank you for answering my
questions
[froglips] 9:13 pm: I have one, what drew you to QSRO?
[scsmith42] 9:14 pm: MQ - glad to help out!
[scsmith42] 9:14 pm: Jim, re the qso...
[Jeff Mills] 9:14 pm: yeah what did draw you to QSRO?
[Canuck] 9:14 pm: This has been great! Jusr too bad the time went by so quick.
Maybe you could do a followup for us, Scott. I am sure that there are plently
more questions, Thanks again!...Wayne
[scsmith42] 9:15 pm: when I was exploring setting up the farm based wood
business, I found that there were a lot of sawmills around, but few that
offered kiln dried wood. I also found that there were few suppliers of
quartersawn oak, and that it sold at a premium as compared with other oak. So,
not wanting to compete with everybody in selling a commodity, I figured that
quartersawn oak would be a great business. I also noticed that most commercial
mills could not handle logs much over 30" diameter,...
[scsmith42] 9:16 pm: and hated to see large logs go to waste. Thus I built my
business around milling very large diameter logs and producing as much
quartersawn material as I could from them.
[scsmith42] 9:16 pm: Wayne, glad to help.
[CaptnA] 9:17 pm: glad you did Scott! your wood speaks volumes
[froglips] 9:17 pm: thats a great niche, best of luck! I know you have a
dedicated customer base here at North Carolina Woodworker
[froglips] 9:17 pm: WIth that, I'm gonna let Scott go, he needs to get out
there and dry us some workbench tops!
[scsmith42] 9:17 pm: Thanks guys. Time for me to run.
[froglips] 9:17 pm: thanks so much for being our first Guest Speaker!
[Ivey] 9:18 pm: See ya and Thanks!!
[CaptnA] 9:18 pm: Kudos Scott good night all~
[Jeff Mills] 9:18 pm: Oh come on Jim say something about Scotts wood
[Mike Davis] 9:18 pm: This was a great idea and a great first speaker
[Mike Davis] 9:19 pm: there
[froglips] 9:19 pm: i'm just glad i haven't hit scott in the head recently....
[Jeff Mills] 9:19 pm: Hey Scott thanks man - really apprciate it - good job

THATS ALL FOLKS! WATCH FOR FUTURE SPEAKERS!