C-14 guide bearings all failed

tvrgeek

Scott
User
Chris, Actually excellent. I rate it above the Laguna and Rikon in the same range. Jet and Griz not even in the running.
Other part to question? The V belt of course as the Chinese can't make one to save their life. Going to put on a Gates or D&D. 5L990 or 5VX990. I wish the table was larger. I made a 6" extension out the back. Need to make an add-on taller fence for resaw. GW motor (Leeson OEM)

Short, at least those $1.40 bearings have the manufactures name on them. I think the OEM ones were $.25. The question is if it is worth putting $14 SFK bearings on.
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
Irrespective of the brand, I always make sure bearings comes from a reputable preferably industrial supplier.

When a bearing is not in use, never rotates and is not stored correctly, it can go bad before installation. While still working, I had many instances where failure analysis on replaced bearings led us back to our own consumable stores and the bearings kept as stock were defective due to age in storage.

Linky below

 

tvrgeek

Scott
User
So, I noticed the Amazon NTN were identified as counterfeit. Not surprised as they were $5 and the real ones $14. So what the heck, ordered XiKe double sealed pack. Total of $16 is probably a big step up. it did have a review from a band saw owner saying their OEM bearings failed, twice and these seemed to work.

Now, I get to drive 50 miles to drop off my Makita jigsaw. Only had it a few months but can't find the receipt. It no longer pendulums. Actually, not sure if it ever did as I just tried that today when I put the coping foot on.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
User
Harvey is SO responsive, a set of bearings was on the way faster than I could tell them I bought "better" ones. Yes, I ordered XiKe in the correct size. $16 for all 11 and they should be here tomorrow. I found several other sources recommending them. $1 bearing vs the $.25 OEM ones. Also quite a bit on counterfeit bearings. ( Amazon selling in an "industrial unmarked box" for 1/3 of what the bearing normally sells for. No lot number to verify by the app. )

Idea: On the thrust bearings one can put a bit of foil tape over one side and seal it from any grit. All the rest, I will cut some felt washers to seal them up. I figure the drag from the oily felt will be insignificant as they spin so slow so rarely and it should catch most of the dust and grit.

I thought about ceramics, but that would need big changes to the guide blocks messing up the super easy to adjust system that was one of the reasons I bough the Harvey over Laguna and Rikon.

Yes, the worst were on the lower guide. I am also looking at the idea to use a bit of split hose under the table to increase dust collection. It is not bad compared to some saws, but not perfect.

Only other "questionable" part is the belt. Every Chinese belt I have ever had was crap. Wheels are so heavy, not much vibration, but I think a Gates cogged belt is still justified. Again, a big cost difference that could upset the price point. A cheap belt retails for $3, a good one more like $10. Understanding how that trickles through to the retail, it is actually significant! The market is so price sensitive, you can't sell higher quality as people won't believe it. Would you pay $200 more for a $1200 machine if they said it had better bearings and belts? You should, but I bet 99% won't.

I am still loving this machine. I just ran all the walnut I harvested and rough sawed across the jointer. Gad, did it do a good job of nice strait cuts. ( 3/4 inch Sawblades.com blade) I screwed up not noticing I could have gotten a 1 inch. FWIW, I run my blade slightly forward. Not as much as the "Carter guy" but not centered either. I know I am not there yet on tension. My thumb is just not well calibrated yet.

I hope honest feedback can help all the OEMs do a better job, build their reputation and succeed. I am a big proponent of manufacturing even if it is China. When a company cares, they should be rewarded by the market. ( If they get there by stealing, well that is another problem and not unique to China!)

I think most woodworking machines are stuck in history. I don't know if the same is true for industrial machines. I can see where almost every woodworking machine could be assisted buy some clean sheet thinking understanding modern manufacturing and materials rather than just adding electronics to the same old 100 year old machine. Too many parts. too many different size screws. ( I think it was 5 different screws holding the cover on my DW 735.) Too many "fiddly: assembly procedures. Mass dampers, new alloys that don't need aging, etc. It is clear, anyone designing dust collection is not well versed in fluid dynamics! It is equally clear, most designers did not take the Troy Institute classes on design for manufacturability. Split off Ford, Don't know if they still exist, but sure opened our eyes when I was in industry.
 

smurg

Marty
Senior User
I just bought this saw and will be following. I've only run some test cuts so far, but bought some 3/4" woodslicer blades and a 1/4" 6TPI timberwolf. Only other thing I see so far is the glued rubber tires which will be a pain to peel off when they fail down the line.

I inquired with Carter to see if they have any stabilizers that fit this saw. Either on the guide post or into the guides in some way. I know this was the OEM to the Laguna 14SUV, but the guides are different.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
User
If they chose to make their V-groove stabilizer in the right size, it would be a piece of cake as that is the orientation of the thrust bearing. Or you could buy a spare part, 715 or 716 and have someone with a lathe put a groove in it.

Harvey has bearings on the way already. Super service. Looking for some felt to make the washers I think will protect the bearings.

Made a small mod to the throat plate to make it easier to latch. Put a hook on the lower front cover to hold a miter guide. Use a magnetic gooseneck light too illuminate the cut. Going to replace the button head screw that holds the upper guard on with a knob as it is the only tool required to change the blade. Analyzing the dust collection. Not bad, but I think I can make it better. Someday, woodworking machine designers will understand that a flat hole is the wrong way to make a port.
 

smurg

Marty
Senior User
If they chose to make their V-groove stabilizer in the right size, it would be a piece of cake as that is the orientation of the thrust bearing. Or you could buy a spare part, 715 or 716 and have someone with a lathe put a groove in it.

Harvey has bearings on the way already. Super service. Looking for some felt to make the washers I think will protect the bearings.

Made a small mod to the throat plate to make it easier to latch. Put a hook on the lower front cover to hold a miter guide. Use a magnetic gooseneck light too illuminate the cut. Going to replace the button head screw that holds the upper guard on with a knob as it is the only tool required to change the blade. Analyzing the dust collection. Not bad, but I think I can make it better. Someday, woodworking machine designers will understand that a flat hole is the wrong way to make a port.

I'll have to see what Carter says but after looking at it more, the easiest would be if the stabilizer post fit right into the thrust-bearing slot like you pointed out. Carter doesn't list post sizes on any of their stabilizers so I'll have to see what they say. I have one on my 14" Ridgid and it has worked well, although I cut tight curves in 3" thick cherry and have a tendency to twist the blade which has worn that groove a bit wider. I'll just leave the 1/8" high TPI blade on that saw now for cutting plywood.

1/4" blade on these roller bearings is touchy. I feel like I need to fit up the thrust bearing close so there's no possibility of the blade shifting back and the teeth contacting the side bearings.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
User
So, got the Xcell 6892RS and the IKIE 608 2RSs. The seals look identical, but the 608 are ink-jet marked on their edge as XiKe and 2RS.

Curious, the WEB for XiKe if you search for 608RS it has no return. Only 6082rs, clearly a different bearing as the picture shows blue seal and their logo. The 689 has not markings and the outer edge is not machines as well as the XiKe. I will be curious what the OEM replacements look like.

Oh yea, the felt washers won't work. Spacing issues. Support issues. A redesign would allow it. I may put in all OEM on the right and all XkIe on the left as a comparison.

I was then thinking a better answer may be open bearings as one could flush and grease them routinely.
 

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