Book stand

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
My son asked for advice on how best to make this. We discussed it a bit and both decided that I should just build and ship. He needs ten by November.

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I was confused about the wood I'm using. It is actually aspen.

Aspen is a good wood for furniture that captures a rustic look. It will take stain and paint well, and it sands nicely too. While it accepts most stains well, it can be beneficial to use a sealer. Aspen is a light wood, but still offers a good degree of durability.

It is a soft hardwood, similar weight as white pine.
 

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Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
I had some aspen that I bought from Chris for a class I was going to teach that got canceled. It is close to 1 1/4 so all I had to do was rip it to 5/8.

I made a story stick with a cut so I can later place the blade in the cut to set my stop and make additional pieces to fit if needed.
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Then lots of cross cutting.
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Next installment will be joinery.
 
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JGregJ

New User
Greg
Thanks for sharing the story stick - I'd heard of them, but this may be the first time I've seen one.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Mike, I was going to suggest a little carving of the script, but I was thinking one and you are making quite a batch. :)

Greg, look into more about using story sticks, dividers, spacers etc. Unless you are doing CNC, relative measurements are easier and more precise than ruler measurements. Scale rulers are a pretty modern invention.
 

smallboat

smallboat
Corporate Member
I had some alder that I bought from Chris for a class I was going to teach that got canceled. It is close to 1 1/4 so all I had to do was rip it to 5/8.

I made a story stick with a cut so I can later place the blade in the cut to set my stop and make additional pieces to fit if needed.
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Then lots of cross cutting.
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Next installment will be joinery.
I like story sticks, never thought to make one with a saw kerf. Handy. I’m stealing that idea. Thanks
 

ssmith

New User
Scott
Wow, that's a lot of cutting. Is this why you were trying to fix your tenon jig? If so, it sure paid off.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
Wow, that's a lot of cutting. Is this why you were trying to fix your tenon jig? If so, it sure paid off.
110 pieces, 80 tenons, 40 open mortises, 40 angle cuts.
I did correct the jig, it was not broken, just out of alignment with two design flaws.

So, far two solid days of cutting.

Now 40 mortices in the center of the frames.

Then I can start to assemble, varnish, and attach hinges. The hinges will be surface mounted.
 

ssmith

New User
Scott
This is quite a production effort, and I'm guessing it would have been far more difficult if you were unable to align the jig.

Thanks for walking us through this BTW; always nice to see final results but better to see exactly how you got them. Now I have to consider buying a tenoning jig. ;)
 
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Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
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The next step in the book stand is drilling some mortise slots. I could measure each one, layout lines with mortise gage and a ruler. But not measuring is much faster and more accurate. I used a pair of dividers to find center of one board and found center of one tenon. Since they were all cut with stop blocks they are exactly the same.

I have several fence boards on the shelf so I chose one close to the size I wanted. Set one of the parts on it and clamped a stop block on one end. Then I clamped a block at the other end with the tenon added to the length.

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I have a 1/4 inch end mill to drill the mortise holes. I set a temporary block left of the end stop block by the width of the mill. Then moved the end stop block to touch the temporary block.
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This gave me the distance that the part needs to move for the mortise.
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Drill out the waste and the tenon fits perfectly.

No tapes or rulers were used in setting up this fixture.
 

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