Blum drawers

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frankc4113

Frank C
Corporate Member
Not sure of what you are referring to by notching the backs. Are you asking about the drawer back piece that fits into the sides in a dado?
 

shawn

shawn
Senior User
I believe you are referring to the notches in the drawer back at the bottom corners to allow the blum motion glides to pass through. I usually use a dado blade.
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
I believe you are referring to the notches in the drawer back at the bottom corners to allow the blum motion glides to pass through. I usually use a dado blade.
Yep thanks. That would be four passes and two fence settings per drawer to get the 1 3/8” notch for the Blum slide.
 

Bernhard

New User
Bernhard
I do not cut a notch, instead I just raise the saw blade when cutting the dado for the the drawer bottom for the back side. The drawer bottom is then glued/pinned/screwed/or whatever to the back. That method is also described in the Blum instruction pamphlet. Saves a bit of time

Bernhard
 

Plunkett

Lee
Senior User
I've used a dado and also just a pull saw and coping saw. If I had a bunch to do, I would use the dado as mentioned above.
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
Stack the backs and dado them before assembly to make quick work.
I started off that way cutting them on the bandsaw. But it had complications with doing nice dovetail joinery. Almost done with 14 boxes, will give it a shot on both the table saw and the shaper and see how it goes.
 

Skymaster

Jack
Senior User
Willemjm you dont, here is the EZ,bestest way, on the back pc rip them right at the top of the dado. This then allows you to assembler the drawer, then SLIDE THE BOTTOM INTO IT, CUT TO LENGTH, WHICH you can measure b4. that way you can solidly staple the bottom pc onto the back. If that is as clear as mud, either PM or call me 973 945 6686
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
Willemjm you dont, here is the EZ,bestest way, on the back pc rip them right at the top of the dado. This then allows you to assembler the drawer, then SLIDE THE BOTTOM INTO IT, CUT TO LENGTH, WHICH you can measure b4. that way you can solidly staple the bottom pc onto the back. If that is as clear as mud, either PM or call me 973 945 6686
Sky thanks for the help, yep that is the most productive way to do it. I tried that when setting up for the first drawer. I am using a Leigh Dovetail jig and ripping that back piece leaves the side dovetails hanging alone, looking not so good. I can set up the jig to handle that, but then I need a different setup for the front of the drawer. Doing those extra jig setups adds too many steps. Easier just to notch the back. I’ll post a picture later if that was confusing.
 

Skymaster

Jack
Senior User
Understand completely, I am not worthy of dovetails :D, therefore I don't run into that problem. Yes I tried, failed many times, gave up. I truly think it is because I do not use solid stock for drawers. Everything I do except for face frames, doors,fronts etc is pre finished ply. dovetails don't seem to take kindly to plywood.Wabbits and glue and staples

When I did that big notch, I used the protractor head that come with machine, screwed a pc of ply to it,and made a jig to use with a dado blade. I took the dimension to the left side of that notch, setup my fence for it, then made a block that would be positioned between the fence and the piece for the right side of the notch, then just nibbled out the middle. by having that ply, it was a way to solidly hold the part, you could make it tall enuf to clamp to.:gar-Bi
 
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Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
Understand completely, I am not worthy of dovetails :D, therefore I don't run into that problem. Yes I tried, failed many times, gave up. I truly think it is because I do not use solid stock for drawers. Everything I do except for face frames, doors,fronts etc is pre finished ply. dovetails don't seem to take kindly to plywood.Wabbits and glue and staples

When I did that big notch, I used the protractor head that come with machine, screwed a pc of ply to it,and made a jig to use with a dado blade. I took the dimension to the left side of that notch, setup my fence for it, then made a block that would be positioned between the fence and the piece for the right side of the notch, then just nibbled out the middle. by having that ply, it was a way to solidly hold the part, you could make it tall enuf to clamp to.:gar-Bi
Thanks Sky. Yep, dovetails with ply tearout like crazy, unless it is Baltic Birch with a dedicated dovetail machine. Thanks for your input.
 

Ecr1

Chuck
Senior User
I cut mine on a shaper with a 1 1/2 straight cutter after drawers are put together. Raise the cutter up to miss the drawer side and set the fence to the depth to the drawer bottom. Then run all your drawers through on one side. Then you will have to take the cutter off And turn it over, reverse the shaper and do the other side of all your drawers. There is a good video of a guy doing drawers this way on YouTube. Just search for drawer notches on shaper. This is the fastest and cleanest way I have been able to do the notches.
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
I cut mine on a shaper with a 1 1/2 straight cutter after drawers are put together. Raise the cutter up to miss the drawer side and set the fence to the depth to the drawer bottom. Then run all your drawers through on one side. Then you will have to take the cutter off And turn it over, reverse the shaper and do the other side of all your drawers. There is a good video of a guy doing drawers this way on YouTube. Just search for drawer notches on shaper. This is the fastest and cleanest way I have been able to do the notches.
Thanks, that was on my mind as I have that cutter. Think I was concerned about possible tearout, but will give it a shot.
 
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