Block Walls In Shop

[lcottrell]

The basement of my house is below ground on 3 sides and is typical concrete block walls. The side that is not below ground was dug out and that is where the garage doors and the driveway are. The basement is split in half so the garage is in half the basement and there is an unfinished basement in the other half, divided by a 2x4 insulated wall. In the area that I'm using as a shop, which is basically one half of the 2 car garage, I have the garage door on one wall, the unfinished basement dividing wall, and then the concrete block foundation wall. The other side is open to where the car is parked. You can probably make out what I'm trying to describe in my shop picture: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=17357.

I want to put up shelving for storage of tools, wood, etc, but have heard from some people that I shouldn't put much, if anything, on the concrete block walls. Unfortunately, that is the best place to locate most of the things, like wood racks, because it is the longest wall. I also have the problem of having some of the house plumbing on the block wall in my shop, so I will have to work around that if I do end up attaching anything to that wall. I don't want to end up pulling in the block wall or causing foundation problems. I'm not sure how much load the basement dividing wall could take since it is just a 2x4 wall with drywall.

I am looking for ideas and guidance on what my options might be for utilizing the wall space that I have.

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

If you want stuff along the block wall, I would run 2X4 verticals from floor to ceiling (attached at the top to the rim joist and to a pressure treated sill at the bottom) then hang whatever cabinets and shelves you want from those. It would be much easier than trying to attach stuff to a block wall. Plus you can add some rigid foam insulation between the verticals. If you put the verticals flat side to the block, you are only losing 1 1/2" of depth.

Remember, also a 2X4 wall supports your kitchen cabinets, etc. that basement partition wall should be strong enough to hang whatever you want on it also.

 

[JimmyC]

Lance,

As everyone else has said, the 2 x 4 walls will hold alot more weight than you think, I'm fairly sure that you could even use it for wood storage. On the other walls I have the same kind of problem, I have a pole barn style building, so I cant attach much weight to the walls. I did kind of what Alan was explaining, I built free standing storage units (shelves, clamp racks and cabinets) that are attached to the wall to keep them from moving. You could build them and then use screws ( blue conrete style) to attach them to the blocks. I would probably drill into the cement buttered between the blocks. You would only need two screws on top per unit, because they are only there to steady your units, they won't have weight on them.

Good Luck,

Jimmy

 

[McRabbet]

Lance,

I wanted to be able to hang cabinets and to insulate my basement shop (it is raised over a crawl space and has a concrete block wall along the front end). First, I sealed the concrete block wall with Thoroseal, available at the BORG in 5-gallon pails. When dry, it keeps any moisture from coming through the block. Next, I put in a 2 x 4 stud wall on 16" centers and placed it about 1" off the block wall (this assures the new wall is plumb and leaves a dead air space to help insulate). Once I had run my receptacle circuits, I insulated these walls (35' lineal feet) with R-19 Dow-Corning fiberglass insulation. These walls will be covered with 7/16" OSB in one shop area or 1/2" drywall in the other. I'll hang cabinets on French Cleats for flexibility.

 

[jglord]

Woodcraft carries wall shelving products that have an option for hanging on basement walls. There is a hanger designed to attach to the top plate above the concrete or a block wall and the shelf standards attach only to this hanger.

 

[lcottrell]

Thanks for the link and info John.

 

[Gotcha6]

Bad idea drilling into the mortar joint. Unless you know the masons used type 'S' mortar, it's usually weaker by far than the block itself. Better to drill into the block face preferrably at the partition line about 1-1/2" from the end or dead center horizontally. Use shelf standards if the water lines permit. Block walls should be waterfproofed on the outside. If you have a water problem, the Drylock or other similar products are the answer & go the 2 x 4 route.

 

[mcoston2]

That is a nice link. And it don't look like it would cost to much.
excellent idea.:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap