Better Support for Deck Railing

[WoodWrangler]

My deck needs some major attention ... a good pressure washing, some new paint and sanding/finishing the top to name a few. But one of the to-do items is to make the railing studier. Right now the railing is a little wobbly. I didn't build the deck, it was here when I bought the house, so I didn't have any say in how this was done :wconfused:

Here's where I need some advice ... is there a better way to secure the rail? The pictures below help show what I have.

This is the deck railing from afar.

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This is how the railing uprights are secured (two screws)

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Here I was trying to show the relationship of the deck railing to the deck main supports.
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And this cruddy little picture is showing from under the deck where the rail uprights are screwed in (see the screws in the middle)

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[Mike Davis]

You could take out the screws and drill holes all the way through, then use a bolt with fender washers and a nut to hold the posts.

OR, you could replace the whole thing with longer, stronger, better designed parts.

Do the bottom rails hold water when it rains? Are they starting to rot?

 

[WoodWrangler]

I've never really paid attention, but I'm sure they probably do. Not just water, dirt, pollen, bugs, everything I bet!

Maybe I should just take it down and replace it. I'd like a build a part of it up a bit with a yard overhang to hold some vegetables (upside down) and maybe even a trellis to make some shade. Wait... I don't have time for all of that.

 

[JackLeg]

I've never really paid attention, but I'm sure they probably do. Not just water, dirt, pollen, bugs, everything I bet!

Maybe I should just take it down and replace it. I'd like a build a part of it up a bit with a yard overhang to hold some vegetables (upside down) and maybe even a trellis to make some shade. Wait... I don't have time for all of that.

COURSE you do! LOL! I bet you wouldn't regret it!
:wsmile:

 

[froglips]

Ok, I will spare my other ideas (yes, they all involved duct tape!)......

For a quick fix, you might wanna try monster pocket screws.

From the outside, drill a long angled hole that would let you get into as much meat as possible in the edge of the support boards. At least an 8" lag screw. That'd also be "easily" filled and painted over.

But, by all means feel free to add duct tape.

Jim

 

[HickoryFire]

Hello Jeremy,

From your post, I assume you don't want to replace the handrail posts, just tighten them up.

Is the handrail posts held on by "Screws" such as decking screws or with bolts?

If screws were used, I would recommend replacing them with 5/8" Hot dipped Galvanized bolts. I would not recommend using "Lag" bolts that simply screw into the wood because they will eventually tear through the wood. A true bolt with washers and nut will provide a long term fix. Also, if you can find some galvanized carriage bolts, it will eliminate the need for the plugs to cover up the bolt heads on the outside of the deck.

Best of luck!

 

[HickoryFire]

After a better look at the photo's, I would recommend running the bolts all the way through the outside band and the inside band. It will require longer bolts, but will provide excellent support!

 

[CrealBilly]

Use Stainless Steel or Galv nuts and bolts there boss - lag bolts don't really work so well... I usually end up snapping them off with my impact wrench, before they even get tight. Nuts and bolts are a lot stronger.

 

[McRabbet]

Be prepared for sticker shock when you buy galvanized carriage bolts, washers and nuts. I used 5/8" x 8 bolts (approved by the local building inspector) on a deck I did a while back for a client -- they must be thru bolted with two per railing post. Consider buying the hardware in boxed quantities for a price break (in August 2006, I paid $153 + tax for 3 dozen bolts/washers/nuts!).

 

[scsmith42]

Be prepared for sticker shock when you buy galvanized carriage bolts, washers and nuts. I used 5/8" x 8 bolts (approved by the local building inspector) on a deck I did a while back for a client -- they must be thru bolted with two per railing post. Consider buying the hardware in boxed quantities for a price break (in August 2006, I paid $153 + tax for 3 dozen bolts/washers/nuts!).

IN the triangle area, hands down the very best price on hardware is at Agri-supply in Garner. They sell it by the pound at just a few percentage points over their cost.

Some of their galvanized hardware is 50% - 70% less than the BORG's...

Scott

 

[Gotcha6]

I've never seen you do anything halfa** so here goes my idea:
1. Remove the existing rail posts (keep them if you wish).
2. Bore 13/32" dia. hole vertically through the outside band to a depth of 6-8" on the centerline of the band width and in the center laterally of the post location.
3. Bore a corresponding hole up through the post to a height of 6-8".
4. Intersect the ends of these holes with a thru hole in the rim band of 1" diameter and a countersink hole to a depth of 1-1/2" in the post. Level the top of the rim hole & bottom of the post hole.
5. Use stainless steel threaded rod and nuts with flat and lock washers & attach the post to the rim with a vertical rod of the appropriate length (similar to a bedrail bolt setup).

This should provide a suitable tensioning member in the assembly to accept daddy leaning on the rail with two Weimeramers in his face.:gar-La;

 

[WoodWrangler]

IN the triangle area, hands down the very best price on hardware is at Agri-supply in Garner. They sell it by the pound at just a few percentage points over their cost.

Some of their galvanized hardware is 50% - 70% less than the BORG's...

Scott

I need one of those places in or around Charlotte! I have seen the price of the big bolts at the BORG before (because last year I considered taking those lags out and replacing them with bolts/nuts). This might be painful!

 

[WoodWrangler]

Here's another question ... how would one go about putting a trellis (?) over the deck? What would it's base attach to? Bolt onto the existing base?

 

[CrealBilly]

Be prepared for sticker shock when you buy galvanized carriage bolts, washers and nuts. I used 5/8" x 8 bolts (approved by the local building inspector) on a deck I did a while back for a client -- they must be thru bolted with two per railing post. Consider buying the hardware in boxed quantities for a price break (in August 2006, I paid $153 + tax for 3 dozen bolts/washers/nuts!).

I got a 5 gallon bucket full of 5/8 x 8 and 10" bolts washers and nuts - wow I might be rich :rotflm:

 

[JackLeg]

I need one of those places in or around Charlotte! I have seen the price of the big bolts at the BORG before (because last year I considered taking those lags out and replacing them with bolts/nuts). This might be painful!

Check Tractor Supply. They usually have good prices on bolts by the pound.

 

[Tarhead]

My recommendation involves a Chainsaw, Reciprocating Saw, sledge hammer, dumpster, Bobcat, a few yards of Crush-N-Run, a few yards of coarse sand, a few pallets of pavers and couple of bags of fine sand. Decks require too much maintenance, bricks develop patina. :gar-La;

Seriously...Definitely go to Tractor Supply for hardware. Hot dipped galvanized is OK with the new PT lumber.

 

[HickoryFire]

A trellis over the deck "MAY" require permits. Each jurisdiction is different concerning this requirement. Now that I've done my job in mentioning that, you will have two options on how to support the trellis. You can bolt it to the top of the deck, or extend the posts of the trellis to the ground. If you bolt to the top of the deck (not the best way due to not having a good way to provide lateral support.) you will need to insure that you place the trellis posts directly over the main posts supporting the deck. (and verify that the existing footings for the deck is large enough to support the deck, the trellis, and you)
The best method would be to extend the posts to the ground and use a 4"x8"x16" "Cap" block as a footing to support the post on. Just dig down so the bottom of the cap block below the frost line (Generally 12" deep).
If you let the trellis posts extend to the ground right beside the main posts for the deck, the two posts can be fastened together for added lateral support.

 

[WoodWrangler]

Thanks for all the great information. I'm going to focus on securing (or replacing) that rail. We love the deck, but I don't want to dump a bunch of money into it right now.