Better gun

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
BIN shellac based is pretty thin, you can spray it without diluting.

Scott, if your satisfied that's ok. Results are all that matter. I use a 1.3 top for paint and top coats, 1.8 or 2.0 for primer.

A smaller orifice produces finer aerosolation and lays down a better finish, especially with top coats. For me I found 30-40 seconds is about right. The problem with most paint is the thinning. I've had some paint you have to thin 50%. There's a good reason why the gravity gun I just bought says "not suitable for latex paint".

Re: thinning I've done enough of it that I can tell by how fast it goes through the strainer if its thin enough. Basically, if it goes through as fast as I can pour a middlin' amount, its good - about as fast a NC moonshiner decants to a gallon whiskey jug LOL.

All that said, if its working for you go with it. I've only used Emerald with a roller on walls. I have used a lot of ProClassic (both oil and wb) and I can say without doubt it is excellent for cabinet work.

Show us your results.

I just finished this kitchen with Target Coatings products.

IMG_0223.JPG
 

tvrgeek

Scott
User
The issue is how much you can thin water based paints. Only about 10% until you change the chemistry.
I will try the smaller tip.

I have both types of Bin primer. I probably have some old school lacquer automotive primer somewhere. I did a roller with the not quite cabinet color Emerald on a counter that will have glass over it. It sure did not cover well. Going to do a second coat in just a few. Wondering if ProClassic is not a better choice. Dealer said Emerald is tougher.
 

Pop Golden

Pop
Corporate Member
I'm sad to admit, I have a Fuji HVLP, but use rattle cans to keep from cleaning the Fuji gun. I only spray SealCoat with my gun so cleaning it (alcohol) is not the biggest problem, but let's face it I'm lazy, and most of my projects are small.

Pop ;)
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
A clear top coat is a good way add toughness to a paint finish. An acrylic lacquer is a good choice (Target Coatings EM7000 HBL with cross linker is a great product)

Personally I like the shellac based BIN b/c is dries fast, sands and sprays really well.

Are you using the urethane Emerald trim paint or the regular Emerald? Because I think Emerald latex is a wall paint, not a cabinet or trim paint. We used Emerald acrylic latex on our office walls and I was not happy with the coverage at all. 3 coats and there are still spots that need touching up (and I consider myself a pretty good amateur house painter). Same thing with the Emerald trim paint it looks plenty thick enough but something happens when you start brushing it. I've used a heck of a lot of Behr paint on walls and it did a better job.

Big fan of SW, but I've discovered just because there's a nice guy with a nice shirt behind the counter, doesn't mean he knows the products. Did you tell them this was for cabinets?
 
Last edited:

tvrgeek

Scott
User
A clear top coat is a good way add toughness to a paint finish. An acrylic lacquer is a good choice (Target Coatings EM7000 HBL with cross linker is a great product)

Personally I like the shellac based BIN b/c is dries fast, sands and sprays really well.

Are you using the urethane Emerald trim paint or the regular Emerald? Because I think Emerald latex is a wall paint, not a cabinet or trim paint. We used Emerald acrylic latex on our office walls and I was not happy with the coverage at all. 3 coats and there are still spots that need touching up (and I consider myself a pretty good amateur house painter). Same thing with the Emerald trim paint it looks plenty thick enough but something happens when you start brushing it. I've used a heck of a lot of Behr paint on walls and it did a better job.

Big fan of SW, but I've discovered just because there's a nice guy with a nice shirt behind the counter, doesn't mean he knows the products. Did you tell them this was for cabinets?
Urethane hybrid enamel. Yes, I described it as cabinets and how the "boss" is pretty tough on finishes. I'll give the counter top a bit to fully cure and see how hard it gets. It looks good after the second coat. I used a foam roller for this test.

I like the Behr paints too. Both wall and exterior. HNDY s Hoe Despot is only a cou0le mines away. SW ( limited) is over in Mebane and a commercial supplier down in C.H.

I thought lacquer was bug shells, but I guess now we have acrylic lacquers which are basically similar to poly urethane. I'll try to find some of the Target stuff and play with it. There is always the next project!

I might get some of this for a try: Amazon.com: Eastwood Durable Paint 2K Aerosol High Gloss Clear Spray 12 Oz: Automotive
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
I’ve got a friend who has a big auto body shop, I was talking to him about my kitchen feeling around for if he might paint them for me.

He said he painted his kitchen with Rustoleum semi gloss. Showed me pics and it looked great. I’ve painted several exterior metal doors with it so I know it’s tough stuff.

I wouldn’t put high gloss on kitchen cabs, but that’s your call.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
User
Yea, semi-gloss.
I have used a lot of rustoleum. Even with added hardener. Great for the doors I can spray outside, but I still have to deal with the face frames and the fumes that my wife is very sensitive to. Not sure you can get custom colors in it though. Nothing stops me from doing a mix the old school way. ( Can of white, can of brown, yellow, green, blue...) Plain old alklyd enamel is tough.
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
Scott if that's a typical Behr paint, its going to be a very thick.

Get some ProClassic and give it a shot ;). I've brushed several projects with it and surprised at how well it levels out.


paint_template-1.jpg
 

Attachments

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
Scott if that's a typical Behr paint, its going to be a very thick.

Get some ProClassic and give it a shot ;). I've brushed several projects with it and surprised at how well it levels out.


View attachment 202904
You can spray this with HVLP. Ive dont it many times simply dilute it with distilled water about 10%. the problem is , for some reason, you cant get it in dark colors.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
User
The counter I did I am waiting to see how hard the surface gets. Only a day later and it is very soft. I put my test board in the shop attic, 110 degrees, to see if it cures quicker.
The SW rep really stressed the Emerald was "harder" surface than Pro Classic. Claim was it was a match for traditional enamel. Maybe. I'll give it a week or so.

The base cabinet color I want does need a "deep base" That limits things a bit.

All this help has opened my eyes for the regular trim around the house.

3 27/32 quarts. Come ON, it should be a gallon!
 

tvrgeek

Scott
User
Digging deeper. Target EM6500 with CL100 additive may fit the bill. I was trying to contact them, but their contact form failed.
 

BSHuff

Brian
Senior User
I'm sad to admit, I have a Fuji HVLP, but use rattle cans to keep from cleaning the Fuji gun. I only spray SealCoat with my gun so cleaning it (alcohol) is not the biggest problem, but let's face it I'm lazy, and most of my projects are small.

Pop ;)
Buy the gravity feed gun (cup on top) or get the 3M PPS disposable cup conversion. I just converted my old pressure/bottom feed Fuji gun to PPS and it makes clean up a LOT easier. The gravity feed guns clean really easily too, especially if you use plastic cups and you take the cup off and run water/solvent through it.
 

Henry W

HenryW
Senior User
Digging deeper. Target EM6500 with CL100 additive may fit the bill. I was trying to contact them, but their contact form failed.
Scott - I have about used this product and was quite pleased with it. I both sprayed (primarily) and brushed it (touch up on-site), I used bright white, on maple cabinets and FFs. I did not use the crosslinker additive.
The only issue I had was user error - I had sheen consistency issues and Jeff's first comment was that a common problem is spraying with the gun too close (<8-9"). Once I sprayed taking care to avoid the gun being too close, I had no issue.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
User
Buy the gravity feed gun (cup on top) or get the 3M PPS disposable cup conversion. I just converted my old pressure/bottom feed Fuji gun to PPS and it makes clean up a LOT easier. The gravity feed guns clean really easily too, especially if you use plastic cups and you take the cup off and run water/solvent through it.
A point to keep in mind. Thanks.
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
If you top coat the pigmented lacquer it will really bring a nice luster to it. Its an extra step, but well worth it IMO. I used EM7000HBL satin with the cross linker only on the base cabs doors/drawers.

I've gotten better results calling them. Jeff Weiss is a great guy VERY helpful VERY knowledgeable & doesn't make you feel like an idiot. I did find out that with a turbine, in hot weather, you have to factor in the turbine air is also warm, so the finish can dry too quickly, resulting in a sandy texture.

This time of year, in the south, I would use the extender.
 

Pop Golden

Pop
Corporate Member
Thanks Brian, but I hate those top cups. They just don't feel right, and I guess I'm too old to try to get use to that type of gun.

Pop
 

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top