Best Wood For "piddling"

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Srminosky

New User
Shawn
So as you can tell by my status, this is all kind of new to me. There is a lot out there I still don't understand or haven't built up to.


BLUF

I have made a toddler bed, a flip top entry bench, some floating shelf's, etc, using the "white wood" from the big box stores. I am not looking to be a Picasso. Looks good, sturdy, cheap (money not quality) am I using my funds effectively or is there a better bang for my buck available?


I make a lot of novice errors as expected and I don't feel I am ready for that big money step yet, and I am perfectly fine with cheaper alternatives as well.



please keep in mind its my first time, go easy and KISS (Keep It Simple for the Stupid) LOL


Thank you all in advance for the hazing that is about to commence! :gar-La;
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
Pine is about the least expensive wood in this area.

A nice hardwood that is relatively inexpensive would be poplar. It takes paint very well and can be stained or dyed. Some like the green/cream/purple streaked wood in the natural colors.
 

Mark Gottesman

New User
Mark
No hazing warranted. We all try and stretch our woodworking dollar as far as possible.

I keep an eye on Craigslist and the local Habitat restore for inexpensive lumber. Estate sales and auctions are often other good sources. I've also dismantled discarded furniture for project lumber. Not much choice in what you get so if you need a particular wood type and size other avenues will need to be explored. If you get a planer and a table saw (or some saw to break down larger pieces you can get rough lumber and process to use. If you can live with it breaking down pallets and other dunnage / crates will yield a acceptable wood for the price of some sweat equity. Again, tools to process lumber will help.
 

rcarmac

Board of Directors, Secretary
Robert
Staff member
Corporate Member
+1 on the estate sales/auctions. I picked up an pile of maple that filled the back of my full size truck to the top of the bed stack. Only cost me $20 for it. I used some poplar that I purchased from the big box stores on some projects as an upgrade to pine. I make a lot of small things and I approach a custom furniture company about getting scrapes they hard. I found out they were just trashing the cut offs or taking them home to burn in fireplaces. So I have all the small amount of cherry, maple, and walnut I can store. Also, check around for a local saw mill. I have found that I can purchase cherry/walnut from a local one man saw mill for almost what poplar costs in the big box. However, its cash and carry and no assurance about the quality of the wood. But for the cheap price, I cant complain if the boards have a few unacceptable areas.
 

Srminosky

New User
Shawn
sounds like a reason to finally get the wife to sign off on a sawzall!

now with a planer: just how difficult is that to use and maintain?

estate sales are an awesome idea, the restore and I are on first name basis, I work in a wear house so busted pallets are the bulk of my wood as it is now.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member

Old Growth Riverwood
Chris Metz (910)762-4077
1407-B Castle Hayne Road
Wilmington NC 28401
Custom Sawing & Drying Lumber
http://www.OldGrowthRiverwood.com
Cmetz@oldgrowthriverwood.com

Feltz Sawmill
Eric Feltz
903 Myra Road
Raeford NC 28376
(910) 875-5827
(910) 308-7796
Link to the site


Beaver Branch Portable Sawmill
sawing up to 24 ft. long
Ivey Pridgen
Burgaw,N.C.
(910) 259-4777
(910) 540-0705


PD Woodbutchers
Portable sawmill service serving the Pee Dee Region
Allan Copp
Florence SC
(843) 687-9885
PDwoodbutchers website
pdwoodbutchers@gmail.com

Are you close to any of these guys?

Cypress might be a good choice for you.

Region 5

Kevin's Custom Sawing and Furniture
Air dried hardwoods/softwoods and custom portable milling services
Kevin Everett
112 Boyd Loop Rd
Everett's Corner
Beaufort Co.
Tel. (252) 923-0345

John Baker-Calico Custom Lumber
Have Sawmill - Will Travel
NC43 at NC 102 - Calico
About 22 miles east of Greenville on Hwy 43, traveling toward Vanceboro.
252-746-6807
Cuts local timbers: Oak, Cypress, Cedar, Walnut, Cherry, Maple, Pine
As usual, call for availability.


 

SteveHall

Steve
Corporate Member
Pine is inexpensive, but it is a softwood and doesn't behave the way hardwoods do. Because it is soft, it is flexible and let's you "squeeze" joints together a little more forgivingly. So much so, that it might make you (okay, me) a little sloppy sometimes. Pine leaks pitch for years and is sometimes considered an unsuitable wood for fine furniture. Then again, I've seen whole houses of pine furniture and flooring that were exactly what the owners wanted. Pine is a great wood for kids furniture.

Poplar is a little harder than pine, but still relatively soft. It is very straight and inexpensive, although it might not finish as richly as most others. Poplar is so soft that you can't really refine delicate shapes like spindles and arms without risk of breaking the joints. But it is harder and more uniform than pine.

Oak is hard, relatively inexpensive, but pretty grainy. Some people really like it for this reason, some don't. It tends to splinter a bit and you certainly have to work to get the end grain finished smoothly. Oak tends to have a "common people" aesthetic, which is why it is often used for church pews and caskets where emphasizing simplicity or a humble nature is important. But I've seen some pretty sophisticated modern furniture done in oak that would defy that definition, too. Oak has the benefit of having different appearances depending on the cut (sawn quarter, flat, or rift). Ash is sort of like oak with maybe even more grain. Hickory is also similar but maybe a bit more obstinate.

Maple is about as hard as you'll commonly find from North America and not much more expensive than oak. I like maple because it has poplar's straight, uniformity suitable for beginning woodworkers but takes finish well and looks great with good consideration of grain and board sawn orientation. Like oak, maple has many different cuts and variations like bird's eye, quilted, and tiger striped. But for such a good, hard wood, maple is not too expensive compared to most other hardwoods since it is common across the east coast.

Walnut is a little more likely to chip than maple and has a bit more figure in the grain. It is dark, but not as dark as what most furniture stores commonly call walnut. With clear stains, walnut is beautiful and tends more toward purple than the chocolate stains everybody always puts on birch/poplar to make it seem like walnut. Some people love walnut and this insistence and less common supply means it is usually more expensive than maple.

Cherry is also a nice wood to work that has a bit more figure to the grain than maple. Cherry wood is not red. Everybody thinks it is because there is a lot of fake furniture in stores called cherry that is really something else stained red. Natural cherry is much more beautiful and changes color over time, especially when exposed to sunlight. The traditional use of cherry for furniture means that it is more expensive.

Everything else is typically more expensive, rarer, harder to find in bulk, less easy to work... and probably an excellent choice to enjoy as you grow in your skills. The beauty of wood is that there are so many types to try. Bloodwood, purple heart, holly, beech, cedar, "mahogany", teak, wenge... there is not enough lifetime to try them all!

(Note that I've completely generalized across these woods. In reality each has numerous varieties. In fact, there are dozens of types of maple alone. Landscape architects often use Latin names for this reason. Understanding the exact species of wood will clarify why one soft maple looks red and the other brown. Even where a specific tree grew and how old it was when felled will make a difference in the nature of its grain and color. Old grizzled woodworker love looking for odd wood with character because they can further emphasis it. This is when woodworking transitions to art. But I digress, this is the point of learning about wood and working with it.)
 
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Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
WOW this site does really have a lot of information its just being able to find it.

I appreciate the help!
Thank you Shawn for reminding everyone - this site DOES have a lot to offer!
Welcome to our internet corner of the workshop!
 

Berta

Berta
Corporate Member
I started with a scrollsaw, a jigsaw, a sander and a circle saw. Mainly used pine and popular. Discarded furniture. Auctions, Garage sales, one mans trash is another's treasure. there was also some luan plywood. Some of those projects are still around today! Take your time and enjoy the journey. :)
 

Srminosky

New User
Shawn
Steve: This is a great simple break down that I have read a few times and it never made the connection you just made! thank you!

Just printed and stapled to my garage wall
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
Birch plywood is about about $50.00. Consider that you're buying processed wood that you don't have to plane for a $1.56 per board foot. Kiln dried poplar may or may not cost that much.

End run for practice stock: Check local school surplus auctions looking for shelving and casework from the 1960s ad 1970s. Often they are made of birch plywood that can be re-used for other things. Often the entire unit will sell for only a few dollars. Old office furniture can supply good drawer side stock and interior bracing stock.
 

SubGuy

Administrator
Zach
Keeping wood inexpensive:

-Rough sawn is almost always cheaper: But this requires the tools talked about above to process. Generally a tablesaw, joiner, planer and saw to cut to length is all you need. Joiner is consider debatable as you can do some jig making to turn your planer into one. I personally don't like dealing with it and have a joiner. Now, initially, you spend more money, but in the end, you have more flexibility and ability to work the wood anyway you see fit. I have personally bought truckloads of lumber used as dunnage that was going to be thrown away for $20 a load (filled my longbed F250 until it squats). I turned cheap throw away lumber into hundreds and hundreds of savings. My planer and joiner paid for themselves just in that instance. Generally, most places charge from $0.75 to $2.00 a bf (board feet) to machine lumber S4S (or 4 sides surfaced). So a project calls for 100 bf, you right off the bat add $75 to $200 to you total cost. If you are just going to tinker a little with small boxes (which you will be limited in what you can make with available board species and dimensions) it is more cost effective to just buy S4S. But if your going to build a bedroom set (200-400 bf) you see the money benefits with buying at least entry level machines.
-Keeping the cost of machines down: Patience, Craigslist, Estate Sales and local leads. Buy used, look and ask often. Find out what you want/need for your projects and select a few machines you like. Research them and look for common problems. When you go to buy, look for those problems. Negotiate, haggle and drive a hard bargain. Name of the machine can mean two things: Price and Quality. Sometimes the two aren't in the same machine. Don't go buying anything just because it's a particular color (Gold - Powermatic, Green - Grizzly, Yellow - Dewalt), each machine is different and each machine deserves an honest assessment of condition and reputation of reliability. Every company out there has had an opps machine or run of machines. If it's broke, it should be dirt cheap and you should know whether or not you can repair it and how much that cost. That cost plus your time at least should come off the price of a running machine and you should still know there is a possibility of hidden problems and it may never run.
-Sawsall: Handy for the DIYer, not a necessity for WWer. Save the budget for it and apply towards a good machine unless you need one for your DIY. I busted mine years ago, and just borrow one when I need it (which has been twice).
-Clamps: You need them. You don't have enough, you never have enough LOL.
-Compressor: I couldn't do without one.
-Sander: Buy a good ROS and don't look back. Everything else is a time saver or specialized. When you get to those road, cross them then. Cheap sheet sanders aren't worth it.
-Finishing: Good brushes is the best start. You can decide where to go after that. I don't even use a brush with some of my finishes. I had a cheap HVLP, want another one, but am doing fine without.
-Dust Collection: Easiest sell to the wife after you get some tools and make some sawdust. Just track it in a few times (unknowingly of course) and she will be happy to let you get one once you explain how much it will cut down on saw dust in the house. In reality, it's only the start as you need to make sure you distro system is good quality and effective or you will just make the dust more airborne thereby ruining the whole premise.

Keep digging on the site and reading. Ask questions. Have fun! Welcome aboard!
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Looks good, sturdy, cheap (money not quality) am I using my funds effectively or is there a better bang for my buck available?

+1 to the advice above as your learning curve expands and you begin to experiment with different wood species.

"Piddling" with pine is a good way to start so carry on. :icon_cheers

1. Give us some pics of your projects; they're all "worthy" so don't be ashamed of them.

2. Natural pine or some sort of stain, etc.? How'd you finish them?
 

dupont6480

New User
Tim
I get a lot of cutoffs and scraps both poplar and sapele from local millwork shops. after milling molding they just trash the leftover lumber and once in the yard I ask them about the cutoffs.
 

Srminosky

New User
Shawn
floating shelf.jpg
+1 to the advice

some floating shelf's I wanted to fill and smooth out but after I primed them wife said I like that leave them be. SO happy wife happy life.


Bench and Coat rack.jpg

the bench was first adventure into the world of wood working after we installed the floors in the house. the staining was so off the shelf stuff from a big box store (lesson learned this project not so much glue)

the coat rack was the second and pain in the #### being the first miter experience ($35 later and caulk said fluff it!)


working on a bed right now will post when done its stained with a combo of 2 minwax stains


is there a place where you post your pics vice just a random forum?
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
A note on cost. If you buy what I often call shelving boards from the homecenter, the stuff with knots, it is pretty inexpensive. I built an entire bedroom set that we used for a couple decades out of that and constructions lumber - 2X stuff sold to frame houses. It is serviceable. I then started using hardwoods. I have an old Ryobi AP-10 planner I bought used for $100. The knives were terrible, looked like they had never been sharpened or changed but once I sharpened them it has worked fine. Sometimes people comment they had to adjust a planner but keeping the knives sharp and the feed rollers reasonably clean is normally all the maintenance for a lunch box type portable planner.

If you buy clear lumber at the home center it is typically surfaced on all four sides and you pay dearly for the lumber. Surfaced two sides from a hardwood dealer will be less. I've purchased wood 3 or 4 times from somebody I found on this website and all of the material has been good and at a good price. All but one time I had to drive a bit to get the wood. Once somebody was swinging through the area and brought it to me. Let people know what you need and you are likely to find somebody with it to sell.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
the bench was first adventure into the world of wood working after we installed the floors in the house. the staining was so off the shelf stuff from a big box store (lesson learned this project not so much glue)

All look nice and functional too. I think that the bench has a used everyday rustic look. What's not to like about that?
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
Shelving pine and plywood are great starter materials and a good way to learn about what woodworking is all about. The trick is don't stop there. At some point, get a little bit of walnut and make a small box or something. The results will let you know if you want to go further and my guess is that you will.
 
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