Best Glue and Wood Filler

[Frank Berry]

I have been using Titebond Glue for some years now and have been wondering if there is anything better to use. I have tried the Elmer's Carpenter glue but did not think there was much difference in that and Titebond.
I also am having a problem with my Plastic Wood wood filler. It seems that I might be leaving traces behind no matter how much I sand because when I go to stain, I can then see the area I left on the wood and then have to go back and sand even more. Is there a better filler to use then Plastic Wood? I have also tried a couple squeeze tubes of filler but they seem to dry before I can even get them into the nail holes.

I really need some guidance here.

 

[Phil S]

I was recently educated on the advantages of hide glue, thanks Dan. It works great, is stainable, reversible and repairable. For filler I would imagine hide glue mixed with saw dust would be perfect.

Before my above awakening, I used Titebond Original, not II or III and for filler, Famowood is the best. All others see to leave a mark as you described

 

[Mark Johnson]

I agree on the hide glue comment. It is pretty versital stuff.

 

[Raymond]

I have not tried hide glue but hearing this brings a question to mind - what strength of hide glue is best for this type of repair work? I know most hide glues come in gram weights so is there a premixed (prebottled) hide glue that is best or a certain weight that would be best?

 

[JackLeg]

Famowood is good stuff!!

:notworthy:

 

[Frank Berry]

Are you recommending the Hide Glue for normal glue ups like a bookcase or similar projects that I would normally use the Titebond on? And just to clarify, I am using the regular and not the II or III unless it is for outside work like a picnic table.
Which Hide Glue is best for me? I have no experience at all with Hide Glue. Also, where is best place to purchase this stuff?
I have used filler like the Famowood, but not sure it was same brand or not and can't seem to get it out of the tube after a small use of it. It seems to dry out inside the tube and I end up cutting the tube with my razor knife to get out the leftover just to find out it was useless to use. Maybe that was because of the quality of the brand I used. It was bought at Lowe's.

 

[Phil S]

I am hoping that Dan will chime in here. He is by far our resident expert on hide glue. I use for everything except boats.

 

[danmart77]

I have not tried hide glue but hearing this brings a question to mind - what strength of hide glue is best for this type of repair work? I know most hide glues come in gram weights so is there a premixed (prebottled) hide glue that is best or a certain weight that would be best?

Hot hide 192 gram is the go to hide glue. Not to be short but there is a ton of discussion on this glue to be found by searching hide glue .. take a look. Hide glue is not a simple panacea for glue issues. I might add I have yet to find the holy grail on this one.

Using hide glue is an investment in time and a few small tools. Like sharpening, once you learn how to do it or use it you will be pleased and wonder how did I skip this part?

good luck
Dan

 

[danmart77]

I have been using Titebond Glue for some years now and have been wondering if there is anything better to use. I have tried the Elmer's Carpenter glue but did not think there was much difference in that and Titebond.
I also am having a problem with my Plastic Wood wood filler. It seems that I might be leaving traces behind no matter how much I sand because when I go to stain, I can then see the area I left on the wood and then have to go back and sand even more. Is there a better filler to use then Plastic Wood? I have also tried a couple squeeze tubes of filler but they seem to dry before I can even get them into the nail holes.

I really need some guidance here.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61046&highlight=hide+glue

Take a look thru this thread and go to the demos presented by Patrick Edwards - I think you'll like them.

 

[Frank Berry]

I do like the simplicity and holding strength of the yellow carpenter glue like TiteBond, but I have the problem of trying to stain the wood afterwards. I guess I just need to be diligent about clean-up during the glueing sessions using the damp rag. I have tried mixing some sanding dust with the glue for filling in the brad and finishing nail holes, but can't seem to be able to stain over that enough to hide the spots. I felt I was better not even trying to plug up the holes with filler then filling and trying to stain afterwards and leaving the blotch on the wood.

 

[Frank Berry]

Thanks Dan.

 

[marinosr]

For most things I use Old Brown Glue, which is hide glue plus urea. This gives it a longer open time and less viscosity at lower temperatures. To liquefy the glue you can just heat the glue in a travel mug with hot tap water, rather than needing a glue pot. Other aforementioned benefits of hide glue still apply, with the exception that I don't think you can make rubbed joints. It's great stuff. Titebond also makes a hide glue/urea mix that I do not have experience with.

 

[Frank Berry]

Here is a real stupid question. If you buy the squeeze bottle of "liquid hide glue", does that need to be heated up before use? Again I am sorry for my ignorance on this. I have never used anything by yellow glue before.

 

[marinosr]

I think Titebond hide glue is liquid at room temperature. Old Brown Glue is liqud above ~80F. I think the more urea additive is put in, the lower the liquid temperature. I don't know if/how different levels of urea affect bond strength and other glue properties.

 

[Frank Berry]

So in my use of things like the bookcase shelves and drawers, should I just stay with the yellow glue and be a little more careful to be sure I use the damp sponge to clean up any squeeze out?

 

[Rick M]

I've never experienced any performance differences in yellow glues except TB3 shrinks and turns dark so I avoid it except for outdoor use. Never used hide glue because I'm not interested taking anything back apart.

Sent from my KFGIWI using Tapatalk

 

[Frank Berry]

Now I just need to solve my wood filler problem.

 

[Skymaster]

CQ CQ CQ DX DE HZ1AB. most times it is better to not fill till after finishing,then find matching color wax sticks form Mohawk or other brands

 

[Frank Berry]

Thank you all for all the help.
November 4 Romeo Mike Echo clear!

 

[Tarhead]

The best filler is no filler in my book. If I were you, for the types of projects you are talking about I would use clamps and/or pocket hole screws for heavy joints hidden on the inside and a 23 gauge pin nailer to hold trim in place while the Elmer's or Titebond glue dried (no good reason for hide glue on these kinds of things) and some spit to swell the tiny pin hole left by the pinner closed. Titebond has an extra thick glue for trim but haven't tried it.