Best all-around finish?

[Webates03]

I am looking for a single finish that will highlight the individual characteristics of a variety of woods: walnut, cherry, tiger maple, red oak, etc. I thought Tung oil would do it but was disappointed in the lack of results on the last project I used it. Suggestions?
Thank You

 

[hymie123]

I'd give waterlox a try. Does a great job at showing off the grain while simple to apply. Let the coats dry 24 hrs before sanding or reapplying. Waterlox builds thin coats so apply 3-4 coats and you should be good. Here is a guide: Waterlox ORIGINAL Sealer/Finish Application Guide

I apply 3 thin coats with a rag. Wet-sand the third coat. Use a cloth to apply a third coat then use folded wet dry sandpaper to work the wet finish with the grain . Afterward, use the cloth again to even out the still damp finish. Then apply 3-4 thin final coats. 24 hours drying between each coat!!

 

[Whitfield]

I second the Waterlox recommendation with one caveat: make sure your previous coat is absolutely cured before you apply the next. I didn't on a tabletop years back, with abidingly sticky results. An utter pain to sand off.

 

[Phil S]

If you want one go to finish and you have the dry time then Waterlox
If you want a one day and done finish, then spray Mohawk vinyl sealer, followed with a glaze or dye if you want a color enhancement and then three coats of pre-cat lacquer - actually less than one day

 

[wndopdlr]

Never tried Waterlox, but have used Watco Danish oil and I am pleased with the results. It really makes the grain pop and brings out the color. The downside is that, if you want to topcoat it with some other finish, they recommend waiting 72 hours.

On some of my turnings that don't require a bulletproof finish, I use Zinzer sanding sealer shellac. I can get three coats of shellac in three hours and the finish is both beautiful and food safe.

 

[Roy G]

Billie, when you use tung oil you have to pick the right brand. Some of the tung oils out there are penetrating oils which will not build up. Some of the other brands are really wiping varnishes which will give you a surface build. Waterlox is great but pretty expensive since you need to keep oxygen away from the contents or it sets up in the can. Learning which finish to use is going to be a long process and sometimes frustrating.

Roy G

 

[Oka]

In general finishes are subjective and dependent on the end use of the piece you are finishing.

Phenol based products will typically dry with an amber shading to your wood. However, the finish is hard and really resistant. Bowling alleys used this for decades. Waterlox is one example of this kind of finish.
Urethane based finishes are another great finish, Arm-r-seal from General finish is an example of this. It also will shade the wood a bit toward the amber shading.

Both of these above will typically take 2-3 days to complete the finishing process (3 coats) due to the slow dry-time. Both above can be wiped on or brushed or sprayed

Lacquer based finishes (like what Phil referenced) are one of my go to when I need it done in one day. It does require spraying if you want a great surface finish.
All the above are what I normally use as I only use solvent based. Mostly because, it is what I am used to and understand how to "read it" when it goes on.

Other finishes I use quite a bit are Mineral or Walnut or Linseed oil/beeswax/carnuba wax mix- you can make this yourself easily. This is a great food grade finish and just a great finish for stabilizing a piece. Rub on and rub off, done. The last 2 will dry Mineral oil will never dry (polymerize). That can be an advantage for some conditions (e.g. butcher blocks, etc.).

Shellac- also a good finish, however, this is light sensitive and heat sensitive. But, very useful for sealing all sorts of things. I love finishing with it. My TV table/stand is finished with it. It is 7 years old and still looking good.

One other new finish, I have not used, but have seen the finished product is Vesting Oil Finish. It is a UV reactive finish. Rub on then use an ultra violet light on it and it is dry in seconds........ TOTALLY INTERESTED in this....... BUT ......... 160 bucks a quart plus the cost of the light ...... gonna wait on that one.......

 

[petebucy4638]

I am looking for a single finish that will highlight the individual characteristics of a variety of woods: walnut, cherry, tiger maple, red oak, etc. I thought Tung oil would do it but was disappointed in the lack of results on the last project I used it. Suggestions?
Thank You

I like Watco Danish Oil. I use other finishes, but Danish Oil remains one of my favorites. I 'natural' over Danish Oil with stains mixed in, in most cases.

 

[KenOfCary]

I like Tried and True brand Varnish Oil. It goes on easy (spread, wipe-off) and doesn't go bad in the can. Not cheap and does take time to dry.

 

[eyekode]

My go to is a Maloof style 3 part finish. The recipe I use is: 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 gloss polyurethane, 1/3 mineral spirits.
I believe his original recipe is 1/3 BLO, 1/3 urethane, 1/3 tung oil. This dries much slower and it is difficult to keep real tung oil on the shelf so I use my version. But the one time I used his “real” version I had wonderful results.
This finish is applied by lint free cloth. Put on heavy then wipe off excess. Let dry 10 mins then wipe dry. Let dry a day then repeat. I typically do 3 coats.
The second part of the Maloof finish is a buff out with a mixture of bees wax and other things I forget because I don’t do this step .
In the end you get a finish that enhances the contrast in the wood. I like it on all domestic hardwoods but it does add some yellowing which isn’t my favorite on maple.
I have pieces that are over ten years old and look as good as new. But high traffic places like my breakfast nook only lasted about 4 years before they could use a sanding and recoat.
From what I have seen the finish you get with Waterlox is similar in appearance and likely superior. I just haven’t tried it to give first hand experience.

 

[jgt1942]

One other new finish, I have not used, but have seen the finished product is Vesting Oil Finish. It is a UV reactive finish. Rub on then use an ultra violet light on it and it is dry in seconds........ TOTALLY INTERESTED in this....... BUT ......... 160 bucks a quart plus the cost of the light ...... gonna wait on that one.......

Casey, did you do any more research on the Vesting product? From what I have found it seems to be great but as you stated the cost is HIGH. The darn light is $700! I've been trying to find UV lights that might work but I'm not really sure I know what to look for.

 

[Oka]

hard oil 229.00 Here is the link for the oil any UV light will work provided it is between 390-420 wave frequency (like 90% sold are) There is one sold by walmart that works according to some postings I have read. IT was 20 buucks or so.

Casey, did you do any more research on the Vesting product? From what I have found it seems to be great but as you stated the cost is HIGH. The darn light is $700! I've been trying to find UV lights that might work but I'm not really sure I know what to look for.

 

[Berta]

I use Danish oil on most of my scroll saw pieces because I can dip them and get all the nooks and crannies. Wipe it after a few minutes. I sometimes give it a second dip wait a few days before spraying with shellac if I feel it needs it.
I can color the woods with colored danish oil. Being able to wipe it means you don’t get drips and runs.

 

[tvrgeek]

As Casey said, no "universal" finish. Everything from epoxy to soap. Choose based on the requirements. Don't forget shoe polish and a heat gun.

The infamous Watco Danish oil is just BLO with a tiny bit of poly in it just as wiping poly is just regular poly with more solvent.

Oils take a very long time to fully oxidize. Years actually. Durability and depth increase with time and additional coating. I have some that I did 40 years ago that is just now really getting beautiful. I have a sideboard that is about 150 years old and I wish I knew how to replicate it. I need to add shelves on top.

Where blo/wax may be fine for a coffee table, not the best for chair arms as we humans have dirty toxic and aggressive skin. I love the feel of rubbed out shellac on my tool handles. Teak oil on my teak shower seat, both water and oil based poly on other things. Not been impressed so far with hard wax. Which finish may depend on if you want to tint it. Dye, dry pigments, stains etc.

FWIW, be careful with the wavelengths of UV light. Some is harmless, some will seriously damage your vision. UVA A vs B if I remember but that was a long time ago.

 

[old and in the way]

Intersting about Vesting oil and UV light. I wonder if this might be the less life threatening "magic ageing for cherry" that invoked all sorts of arcane chemistry and poisonous solutions in another posting. Perhaps use the UV light until the cherry is the color you are after, sort of like fuming oak with ammonia.

Perhaps we can all breathe easier now.
Tone

 

[Keye]

I think a lot more importance should be placed on what the item is and where and how it will be used or displayed. The finished look you want is certainly important but will the finish stand up to the use and environment when all is said and done. One glass of iced tea placed on the wrong finish can be a disaster.

 

[jlwest]

I have used Minwax urethane and stains for many years.

 

[HITCH-]

I think a lot more importance should be placed on what the item is and where and how it will be used or displayed. The finished look you want is certainly important but will the finish stand up to the use and environment when all is said and done. One glass of iced tea placed on the wrong finish can be a disaster.

Another +1 here.
The intended use of the item will play a part in determining what would be the "best". Finish.

You probably wouldn't use the same finish on say a patio table, a jewelery box and a cutting board.

What is the project Billie?

 

[JimD]

I've mostly used Osmo Polyx-oil for several years now. A dining room table and chairs, a couple bedroom sets and other pieces. It is a two coat finish with a low sheen. The first coat soaks in some and you use more finish on the first coat. The second coat goes much quicker and you use a lot less finish. I do not brush it on, I use a small towel to put it on and another to take off the excess. You have to give it at least 8 hours between coats. Brings out grain pretty well like an oil finish but seems to be surprisingly durable. They say it will work on floors but I have not tried that. It looks expensive but you use so little it isn't bad at all as long as you can use up the can in a few months. If you use most of it and let it sit for months it kind of gels up and isn't what you would want to use on something nice. I've still used it on little things for myself and it worked fine but it has dried finish in it from the sides of the can or something. I did the whole dining room set with one of the $50 cans and had quite a bit left over. The bedroom set I'm getting close to done with used less than half a can. I still have the 4 drawers to make so maybe I'll end up using half a can.

 

[petebucy4638]

I like Tried and True brand Varnish Oil. It goes on easy (spread, wipe-off) and doesn't go bad in the can. Not cheap and does take time to dry.

For wood turning projects, Tried & True Varnish Oil has become my go-to finish. It has no solvents, no appreciable odor, and it produces a very nice, natural finish.