Bending Wood

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MikeF

New User
Mike
I need to make a piece of trim (2x2) that will fit an arch around the top of a window. This will be on the exterior of the building and made from pressure treated wood. Is it better to laminate thin strips and bend/glue, or make the arch out of sections and cut the arch to shape? Are there any problems gluing pressure treated(but dry) wood?

Thanks for your advice.

-mike
 
M

McRabbet

I would make a segmented arch out of solid wood and cut the radius on a band saw. About 10 years ago, I built an arbor that connected our back yard through an opening in a stand of Leyland Cypress trees to a common area next to our property. I took this picture about 5 years after I built it and it is still there (we sold the house the month this picture was taken and we visited the neighborhood a few months ago). I made the arches from sections of 1 x 8 PT SYP that were overlapped, glued with waterproof glue and screwed together. Then they were cut out. I could have used 2 x material, but I had the 1 x stock that was dry and it allowed me to overlap the segments for added strength (no joinery required between the segment pieces; the strength comes through overlapping.

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nelsone

New User
Ed
Brick stack is what i think it is called. This link shows brick stack for a curved front piece of furniture, but it gives you the general idea. Scroll down to page 32 and look at the image on the right.
 

rbdoby

New User
Rick
If you laminate the trim you'll have to make a form to hold the strips in shape as the glue dries. The form will need to be a little tighter curve to allow for spring back of the wood which is hard to calculate.

I think it would be quicker and easier to use the method that Rob and Ed have mentioned. Use a construction adhesive for pressure treated wood.

Rick Doby
 

truckjohn

New User
John
I do some bending with Guitars.... I wouldn't do it on PT wood for a couple reasons:

1. The wood is particularly low quality stuff -- knots everywhere... and knots and runout and cracks all split when you bend them...

2. Full of toxic chemicals like Arsenic... You don't want this stuff coming back out when you heat and boil it during bending....

3. It's generally some flavor of Green.... and shrinks all crazy, warps, twists, etc... enough as it is...

The general process for Heat bending wood is to get it hot and wet... then slowly bend it onto a form.... Wood 2x2 size would most likely take hydraulics to do this... not to mention some way to boil it under hot water for a couple hours... Pressure cooking it at 250-300F works better...

It is much easier with Laminated pieces -- the thinner they are (As in less than 1/10" thick) , the easier it is to bend them.... You still need to bend them over a form.. so each laminate would need its own form piece... or maybe you could bend the whole stack over a form, then let it dry a couple weeks.... then epoxy it all together.

There are woods that are easier to bend than others... Straight grained Quartersawn Oak is a traditional choice for Steam bending... Willow is also very compliant after you soak it in warm water for a few days.... Soft maple also works... The Key to these is that woods for bending really have to be perfectly straight grained with absolutely no knots, cracks, runout, or interesting figure to crack or split along... Quartersawn boards work really nicely for this....

There is also this stuff....
http://www.flutedbeams.com/ordercoldbendhardwood.html
It is Pricey! It is some sort of magical compressed wood that is shipped wet and bendy... then you bend it however you want and it dries back into its hard state.

Then, last is probably the easiest suggestion... Skip trying to steam bend thick stock... Joint up a bunch of pieces and just cut your arch out....

Tell us what you decide on.

John
 

Sealeveler

Tony
Corporate Member
Build a mold like this.Soak the wood,place in mold,let dry then glue.Tony
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MikeF

New User
Mike
Thanks to all for the replies. I think I'll go with the the brick stack suggestion. That solution looks like it would be the strongest and less chance of movement after the wood dries.

I'll post a couple of pics after I'm done.

Thanks again,

-mike
 
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