Bandsaw tensioning

[Douglas Robinson]

I have always been bad at tensioning a bandsaw. I worked at applying tension in various ways and at adjusting the blade guys but always suffered drift.

I just learned that the position of the blade on the wheel is critical. You need to line up the deepest part of the gullet with the center of the top wheel. The gullet should be equally space from the front and back edges of the wheel. Then you apply tension. All the other adjustments can then be made and things wok MUCH better.

 

[Hmerkle]

This is especially true on a smaller Bandsaw!

 

[Mike Davis]

I have been doing it that way for about 12 years and never have drift. Just last night I re-sawed some spalted maple 8 inches tall in the saw and cut perfectly with a 1/4 inch 14 tooth blade. I usually change to my 5/8 3 tooth blade but this was a short ( 14") piece and I knew it would cut fine, just slowly.

 

[Henry W]

I have been doing it that way for about 12 years and never have drift. Just last night I re-sawed some spalted maple 8 inches tall in the saw and cut perfectly with a 1/4 inch 14 tooth blade. I usually change to my 5/8 3 tooth blade but this was a short ( 14") piece and I knew it would cut fine, just slowly.

Mike - what type/size of saw were you using? I have never been able to get my 14" jet BS to track well enough to even think of re-sawing anything, let alone an 8" piece.
I have an older (blue) jet 14" open base saw - so a very basic tool. I do use the saw, but mostly for (crudely) cutting curves.

I recently bought a 3/8 blade (I think) that was 3 or 4 TPI - seemed like I could tension that one better than the 1/2" blades I was using.

 

[Mike Davis]

I have a 2006 Rikon 12 1/2 inch re-saw capacity. I have cut 12 inch wide boards 8 feet long into 1/2 inch thick planks with it.

 

[Henry W]

I have a 2006 Rikon 12 1/2 inch re-saw capacity. I have cut 12 inch wide boards 8 feet long into 1/2 inch thick planks with it.

Is that a 14. 15. or 18" saw?

 

[Mike Davis]

This is the newer, current version of mine. I have one of the first ones that were painted green.

Rikon 14 inch Deluxe Bandsaw 10-326

The Rikon 14" Deluxe Bandsaw is a great choice for all kinds of woodworkers. Furniture makers will like the large 13" resawing capacity and cutting accuracy. Woodturners will like the stability the large table provides when roughing bowl blanks. You can even cut non-ferrous metals on low speed.

Powered by a 1-3/4 HP 115/230 volt motor, this unit comes ready to plug into a 115 volt outlet. An extremely sturdy steel frame maintains accuracy. Large 1-3/8″ diameter side bearings provide guiding stability to the blade for greater cutting accuracy and reduce friction for longer blade life. A Quick-release lever quickly lowers the upper wheel, reducing blade tension for quick blade changes. It also lets you release blade tension at the end of each day's use, easing stress to the blade and the bandsaw's components. The large cast iron table tilts for beveled cuts and includes a heavy rip fence with integral inch scale and resawing pivot guide.

Standout Features for the Model 10-326​

• Spring-loaded, tool-less blade guides
• Quick-lock table trunnion
• Quick-adjust fence system with 6" tall rip fence
• Cabinet stand with door gives an ample 18″ x 14″ x 15-1/2″ storage area w/ fixed shelf
• 40-3/4″ floor to table height lets you work comfortably

Specifications​

• Motor: 1-3/4 HP TEFC; 115/230v; 14/7a
• Cutting Capacity: 13-5/8" Wide x 13" High
• Cast Iron Table: 21-1/2" wide by 15-3/4" deep
• Table tilt: up to 45° right or 7° left
• Dust port: 4"
• Cast Iron Wheels: 14" diameter
• Blade Length: 111"
• Blade Width: 3/16" - 3/4" I don't use larger than 5/8"
• Comes with 5/8" 4tpi blade installed Throw it away and get a decent blade from Union Grove Saw & Knife
• Cutting Speeds: 1445 / 2950 fpm
• Overalll size: 33-3/4" wide x 25" deep x 76" high
• Weight: 256 lbs
• Footprint: 24" wide x 17-1/2" deep
• FIVE-YEAR manufacturer's warranty. Mine is nearly 20 years and I have only replaced the blade guide bearings and drive belt.

 

[Henry W]

This is the newer, current version of mine. I have one of the first ones that were painted green.

Rikon 14 inch Deluxe Bandsaw 10-326

Thanks Mike - makes me want to upgrade to this saw.

 

[tvrgeek]

I like my 3 HP Harvey for about the same money. Nothing against Rikon. They were my second choice. ( bigger 3 HP version)
Agree, best to use a blade a little smaller than they say. C-14 spec is 1 inch but 3/4 is all I would run.

Anyway, Alex Snodgrass has been suggesting this setup for years. Gullet in the center, not blade centered.

Power of the saw related to how fast you can cut. I can go a little quicker with 3 HP, but Mike just has to go a tiny bit slower. They get the job done. The blade matters more. I have done OK with Lennox and Olson. Mixed with sawblades.com. Have not tried Union Grove but Mike is not the only one suggesting them. In reality, the all buy their raw stock from just a few sources, so the brand name is who welds and packages them. I put in a 220V 20A line for the bigger saw. 1 3/4 can run on a 110 line.

Set up your table/slot to a new "your favorite blade" with the fence parallel. If you start there, then you can make small tracking adjustments as bands do differ. I know I am dead on when my side bearings don't spin. Any band saw should be able to track unless the tires are old and no longer crowned correctly. I do a single "debur" down each side of a new blade with a diamond stone by hand and a few seconds under power on the back edge. Carbide blade is on order so that will be a new experience. ( Laguna)

Tension is still a matter of guess.

 

[areevesnc]

Has anyone else tried one of these tension gauges?

EZtension Bandsaw Tension Gauge — EZtension

EZtension Bandsaw Tension Gauge - the fastest, easiest way to accurately tension your bandsaw

www.eztension.com

I picked one up when I bought my relatively inexpensive second-hand bandsaw, and had no idea initially how to set the tension (or to avoid drift). After some research, a tune-up, and using the gauge, I’ve never had any problem with drift. I do what others have suggested, and position the gullet at the center of the upper tire.

 

[Henry W]

This is the newer, current version of mine. I have one of the first ones that were painted green.

Rikon 14 inch Deluxe Bandsaw 10-326

The Rikon 14" Deluxe Bandsaw is a.....

Thanks Mike - makes me want to upgrade to this saw.

I found and purchased a used Rikon 10-325 saw and so have 'upgraded'; we'll see if it is an upgrade, but I think it is (1.75 HP motor vs 3/4 on my old one).
Need to spend a few more hours getting to all the various adjustments made (that I may have mis-aligned in moving it).
Methinks this is what I was hoping for... and if it is not - the operator will be the common denominator (at fault).

 

[Michael Mathews]

Henry, Do you understand the proper setup for the blade on the wheels? It's very important if you want to avoid drift that the bottom of the gullets be centered or very close to center on the wheels! If need be, I can help you setup your saw. I'm in Chapel Hill and I've helped several setup their Bandsaws to resaw straight!

 

[tvrgeek]

As I showed in another thread, I made a little pointer inside my saw to reference where the center is. Just makes it a tiny bit quicker when changing blades as I do switch between a 1/4 or 3/8 for general stuff and now my new 3/4 resaw.

 

[tvrgeek]

Has anyone else tried one of these tension gauges?

EZtension Bandsaw Tension Gauge — EZtension

EZtension Bandsaw Tension Gauge - the fastest, easiest way to accurately tension your bandsaw

www.eztension.com

I picked one up when I bought my relatively inexpensive second-hand bandsaw, and had no idea initially how to set the tension (or to avoid drift). After some research, a tune-up, and using the gauge, I’ve never had any problem with drift. I do what others have suggested, and position the gullet at the center of the upper tire.

I would love to play with ( copy?) that jig as I am totally by guess on tension. Quite a lot of differences in when one's finger turns white. Once one gets the feel, then easy. Tension by flutter I found to be way too light. $40 plus shipping seems a bit much but probably a very low volume product. Looks like a 3-D print so it would be expensive to make.

 

[Michael Mathews]

I use the "flutter" method to tension my blades. Start your saw with the blade tensioned then begin to slowly loosen the tension until the blade begins to flutter. I usually do this with the door open and watch the back, or non-guide side of the blade. Or just raise the guides all the way up then do this. Once the blade begins to flutter, then just tension in enough to stop the flutter. Done!

 

[MarkDarby]

I have a lot to learn here. I usually just tension it up until I can push my finger against the blade and move it about a quarter of an inch. I also have recon 10–3 25.

When I resaw, I have an issue with blade tracking once I get several inches into the cut. I do make sure that the blade is at a 90 deg angle to the table and I go very, very slow.

 

[tvrgeek]

I use the "flutter" method to tension my blades. Start your saw with the blade tensioned then begin to slowly loosen the tension until the blade begins to flutter. I usually do this with the door open and watch the back, or non-guide side of the blade. Or just raise the guides all the way up then do this. Once the blade begins to flutter, then just tension in enough to stop the flutter. Done!

I get better results a bit tighter than the flutter method. Not so much in tracking, but a little better cut quality.

 

[Michael Mathews]

I get better results a bit tighter than the flutter method. Not so much in tracking, but a little better cut quality.

I'll agree Scott. After the flutter, you want to tension up a bit to eliminate the flutter. What exactly a "bit" is has yet to be determined!

 

[tvrgeek]

I have a lot to learn here. I usually just tension it up until I can push my finger against the blade and move it about a quarter of an inch. I also have recon 10–3 25.

When I resaw, I have an issue with blade tracking once I get several inches into the cut. I do make sure that the blade is at a 90 deg angle to the table and I go very, very slow.

That means either your blade is not tracking where it should, or your blade is bad. It does not take much, just a slightest kiss of a guide too far forward to alter the set where it is not symmetrical. It will never track then. It is so easy to forget to open the guides all the way when changing bands and adjusting the tracking. Using those silly magnetic sticks will never show a bad blade set.

Best method to test 90 is the cut and reverse method. Much better than using a square.

Band saws are such simple machines, but yea, a lit of finesse to learn. Once you get it, magic happens.

 

[Henry W]

Henry, Do you understand the proper setup for the blade on the wheels? It's very important if you want to avoid drift that the bottom of the gullets be centered or very close to center on the wheels! If need be, I can help you setup your saw. I'm in Chapel Hill and I've helped several setup their Bandsaws to resaw straight!

Thanks for the offer, Micheal. I have seen the Snodgrass video a few times - and do 'understand' the proper set up for alignment of blade on the wheels. Guide set up too, which is not as easy on the Rikon as it was on my older Jet, which had tool-less guide setting.

As discussed by you and Scott in the above few posts though, tensioning is another matter. I never quite understood the advice to ' push it a 1/4" at midpoint technique'; seems like this is very subjective (how hard to push? what if my finger goes 'white' when I set my hand on the desktop?). The 'flutter method' did not work well for me the few times I tried that.
It's a bit of a Catch-22: I didn't use my (old) BS enough to really understand how to get the best of it - including how to tension it 'properly' - and I never needed it enough for critical cuts to understand how to get the best of it. And the circle goes round and round.

Best results were achieved with a new smaller blade (3/8" rather than my typical 1/2" blade) and higher tension. Then I sold that saw.

So I will set-up / tune-up the fence and guides on this Rikon and start to test it. And then I can finally answer whether this craftsman was appropriately blaming his (former) tools for unsatisfactory results. New tool, no more excuses!

I'll give this a go and reach out for help to this group as needed.