Band Saw: What size? (Different Project)

[JEM]

I started a thread asking about any shop around to cut me a whole pile of cedar strips:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?p=85566#post85566

But I'd like to know what you all think about what size band saw a guy would need to cut a whole bunch of of cedar strips cut to 1/8" x 3/4" from mostly clear lumber. Desire strips to be around 6-8' long. Consistent and square is a requirment.

I'm looking at around 250+ strips.

It would be nice to have a new toy but I think I might need a big one for this job.

Thoughts on what size I'd need? Anyone selling a used stand-up one? Anyone want a couple cases of beer and let me come use your toys? :-D

 

[DaveO]

If I am reading your dimensions correctly you need 1/8" thick strips ripped off of 3/4" thick stock, 6-8' long. That could be very easily done on a table saw. Or a 14" bandsaw would also do it fine, but you might have to clean up the saw marks a little. You probably could get away with a smaller bandsaw, but it might not have the table size and stability to handle such long stock. Personally I would do it on a tablesaw using a jig like this -

[FONT=Arial, Geneva, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]from magazine [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Geneva, Helvetica]A Quick Jig for Ripping Thin Strips[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Geneva, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]Plywood projects always look better with the edges covered by thin strips of solid wood banding. But what's the best way to cut thin stripsconsistent on the table saw?[/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial, Geneva, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]One method is to set the fence the desired distance from the blade. Then make multiple passes to cut enough strips. This works, but the strip can get caught between the blade and fence and kick back.[/SIZE][/FONT]

[SIZE=-1][FONT=Arial, Geneva, Helvetica]The other option is to cut the strip on the waste side of the blade. It gives better control of the workpiece, and the strip falls away clear after passing the blade. But moving the fence between passes can yield strips of different thicknesses.[/FONT][/SIZE]

[FONT=Arial, Geneva, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]One solution to this problem is the jig shown above right. It's just a block screwed to a runner that sits in the saw's miter gauge slot.[/SIZE][/FONT]

[SIZE=-1][FONT=Arial, Geneva, Helvetica]Setting the jig is easy. Position it alongside the blade and fine tune the jig by turning a panhead screw driven into one edge, see the drawing at right. Then pull the jig back so it sits ahead of the blade. Now butt your workpiece against the screw and lock the rip fence against the workpiece. Make a cutting pass, then repeat the process on each additional pass. All the strips will be the exact same thickness.[/FONT][/SIZE]

Dave

 

[junquecol]

Currently on Craigslist- Raleigh is a Delta closed stand 14 bandsaw for $500. This saw should do the job you need. I am assuming that you are making a ceder strip canoe.

 

[Travis Porter]

I would think even with the bandsaw or tablesaw set up you would still need to clean them up with a sander like a Woodmaster or Performax. A 14" saw should have no trouble doing it and would have less waste than a tablesaw set up, but the tablesaw would definitely work.

 

[junquecol]

With a lot of waste, The Hardwood Store in Gibsonville could "straight line rip" them. Only wastes a 1/4" per rip. After each rip on TS. or BS you will need to joint board.

 

[dino drosas]

Matt, I would just start out with 3/4 inch lumber and then strip that to 1/8 . I agree with the above posts in that a 14" bandsaw is more than up for the job. With a good resaw blade you should be able to get a smooth enough cut to go straight from the saw to your project.

 

[RobD]

I agree with DaveO's approach. Since you only need them 3/4" wide, ripping them on a table saw is much easier than resawing on a bandsaw.

 

[JEM]

I'm starting to think a table saw might do the job just fine. I figure I'll purchase the cedar from the HardWood store already planed to my desired thickness.

Then with some featherboards and good infeed and outfeed tables, the job should go pretty fast and easy.

I'll probably end up wasting about 25% more material than I would with a bandsaw so I'll just have to crunch some numbers to see where the break-even point ends up.

I'm pretty sure I'll come out way cheaper with a tablesaw, which I have, than buying a decent bandsaw and wide blade.

 

[ptt49er]

don't forget to get a thin kerf blade for your table saw, that'll save you some material...hadn't seen anyone mention it, thought itmight be helpfull!

Best of Luck
~Phillip

 

[Gofor]

JEM: Altho I don't have a bandsaw, and thought from my first reading of your post that a table saw would do THIS job better, in your line of work, which will get the most use in the future? Personally, I think both would benefit you, but having worked on boats in FL, a bandsaw may have a lot more applications. If my recollection of my perusal of 10 years of Boatbuilding Magazine is correct, straight cuts will not be the norm. That says to me that a good bandsaw might be a better investment if you have neither. Although you may start with straight strips of wood, they usually taper, and few gunwales and bulwarks are straight on the hull surface.

Just a thought

Go

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

See my response to your other post.