Band Saw secondary dust collection
- Thread starter woodnick
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I replaced the tiny / puny dust port on mine with a 4" port. Unfortunately for you, but fortunate for me $$, Wood magazine owns the rights to it. One day, maybe they will publish it. I do still have pictures, but due to contract, I can't send them electronically:eusa_thin.
I replaced the tiny / puny dust port on mine with a 4" port. Unfortunately for you, but fortunate for me $$, Wood magazine owns the rights to it. One day, maybe they will publish it. I do still have pictures, but due to contract, I can't send them electronically:eusa_thin. When I cut out my Toys for Tots cars (120 of them), there was less than a half cup of dust in both upper and lower wheel housings. Each cut was about 6" long in a 2 X 4.
I have a 4in port on the back of my grizzly 0555 connected to a Delta 50-076 dust collector. At best its lacking so I also clamp the hose from my shop vac under the bandsaw table, near the lower guides. The second vacuum (shop-vac) improves dust collection considerably so when I recently ran across these setups I thought I may have to try them myself.
I do not remember where I got these photos but I was impressed by the ideas enough to save the photos and am considering trying this with my Grizzly bandsaw. The one with the PVC pipe (cut to fit around lower guides/balde) uses rare eath magnets to hold the plywood collars to the side of the bandsaw. In the more permanent setup the owner actually cut the lower wheel housing to make an even larger connection using an HVAC ducting. I think the HVAC port would work better and hope to try it on my bandsaw soon.
Jane
View image in gallery
I do not remember where I got these photos but I was impressed by the ideas enough to save the photos and am considering trying this with my Grizzly bandsaw. The one with the PVC pipe (cut to fit around lower guides/balde) uses rare eath magnets to hold the plywood collars to the side of the bandsaw. In the more permanent setup the owner actually cut the lower wheel housing to make an even larger connection using an HVAC ducting. I think the HVAC port would work better and hope to try it on my bandsaw soon.
Jane
View image in gallery
I upgraded to the 5" port on my delta and cut a hole in the door and put a 4" port on it, but it didn't do that well for me and I have since discontinued using it. One thing I did do, and recomment is putting a brush on the lower wheel. That has made a big difference for me in blade tracking and quality of cut.
I upgraded to a 6" port on my Delta. With 6" pickup I get max suction and all the dust. I did not cut any holes or modify the saw in any way that it can't be returned to its original configuration. The table can still tilt to its full angle.
I first removed the tiny little plastic pick-up that came with the saw. I then temporarily removed the front and back fence rails. I cut two pieces of angle iron to the length of my table and drilled holes in each that would match up with the existing holes in the edge of the table that are used to mount the fence rails. I installed the angle iron then re-installed the fence rails using the same bolts. The angle iron extends down 3/4" below the table so one half acts like a shelf.
I cut a piece of plywood to slide on the new angle rails and cut it out for the lower guide assembly, etc. Then I attached a piece of thin duct-weight sheet metal to it that enshrouds the area below the table then transitions to a round piece where I attach the 6" flex hose. To adjust the blade guides or change blades I temporarily remove the plywood and sheet metal adapter piece by sliding it it out. To tilt the table I just slide it part way out. It works great.
I first removed the tiny little plastic pick-up that came with the saw. I then temporarily removed the front and back fence rails. I cut two pieces of angle iron to the length of my table and drilled holes in each that would match up with the existing holes in the edge of the table that are used to mount the fence rails. I installed the angle iron then re-installed the fence rails using the same bolts. The angle iron extends down 3/4" below the table so one half acts like a shelf.
I cut a piece of plywood to slide on the new angle rails and cut it out for the lower guide assembly, etc. Then I attached a piece of thin duct-weight sheet metal to it that enshrouds the area below the table then transitions to a round piece where I attach the 6" flex hose. To adjust the blade guides or change blades I temporarily remove the plywood and sheet metal adapter piece by sliding it it out. To tilt the table I just slide it part way out. It works great.
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