5 1/2 Hand Plane for $110.00?

[Robert166]

I have been considering a 5-1/2 for the shooting board, and this one looks enticing. But with the price of a Wood River is $300, I am guessing the taytool plane is just a cheap Chinese knock off with their logo on it. Has some decent reviews, but when something has a price difference of 200 bucks, figured I would ask the hand plane guru's on here their opinion.

WoodRiver - #5-1/2 Bench Hand Plane - Jack Plane - V3

Buy the WoodRiver #5-1/2 Jack Plane for sale online from Woodcraft. Visit us to order online or find your local Woodcraft store today!

www.woodcraft.com

#5-1/2 Jack Smoothing Bench Hand Plane, 14-3/4" Sole, 2-3/8" Wide Blade 465944

This #5-1/2 jack plane is the perfect tool to smooth and flatten areas and will achieve an produce an accurate and smooth finish. This jack plane is ideal for the cabinet maker and discerning woodworker. The body and frog are made from ductile cast iron. The sole and sides are precision machined...

taytools.com

 

[Mike Davis]

Sorry,
I can't help, I mostly buy old Stanley planes.

I did finally break down and get a Bridge City mini-block plane, only because it was on sale.
I am curious about the outrigger feature for planing small stock to a preset thickness.

 

[Echd]

I would think it would be fine. If it's not, flatten the sole on your table saw bed with some sandpaper and clean it up.

But I see decent looking Stanley's on ebay for much less than that taytools. I like taytools but if you think you're rolling the dice anyway, why not just get a stanley?

 

[Mike Davis]

I would think it would be fine. If it's not, flatten the sole on your table saw bed with some sandpaper and clean it up.

But I see decent looking Stanley's on ebay for much less than that taytools. I like taytools but if you think you're rolling the dice anyway, why not just get a stanley?

Just looked at E-bay. Was about to say the same as you...

 

[creasman]

Not sure you would need one that wide for use with a shooting board. The iron on a 5-1/2 is 2-1/4" vs 2" for the 5. With a shooting board you typically use only the bottom third or half of the iron.

I use a Stanley 62 (low-angle) plane with my shooting board. It has a 2" iron. I like the low angle since I'm most often shooting end grain.

 

[Robert166]

I have a 62 and have trouble using it on my board, just doesn't feel stable in my hand, and the low sides are an issue for me as well.

Looking at eBay, maybe the way to go for a used one.

 

[J_Graham]

I have used a stanley 6 on mine for awhile before I found my 5 1/2. Has the same width iron with some extra length. Probably a little bit heavier too.

 

[Westpacx3]

Not to hijack the thread but I was looking to make a shooting board, hard to decide who's example to build off youtube, but all I have is a few Stanley #4,s.

From this conversation, should be looking to get a different hand plane?

Is there a good, better or best shooting board for small stock? Mostly I think I would use it to trim lining for small boxes..

 

[J_Graham]

@creasman did a really good write up on his shooting board. I imagine you could adjust the height difference of the plane "track" to be closer to the main bed level to give you more cut from a narrower plane. The posted thread is a really good discussion though.

Shooting board

I finally got around to making a shooting board. This is a shop accessory that's been on my list for some time. With no shortage of plans available I downloaded the ones from Lie-Nielsen, then combined some ideas from other sites. I ended up with a base that has a 1/4" high-density plastic...

ncwoodworker.net

 

[Rwe2156]

Not to hijack the thread but I was looking to make a shooting board, hard to decide who's example to build off youtube, but all I have is a few Stanley #4,s.

From this conversation, should be looking to get a different hand plane?

Is there a good, better or best shooting board for small stock? Mostly I think I would use it to trim lining for small boxes..

It's not about the width, it's about the weight. Personally I find the weight and length of a #6 just about right. Depends some on the size boards you're shooting. a 6-8" wide board is going to benefit from the extra mass.

Some advocate a LA jack or bevel up. I originally got a LA jack with the hot dog handle attachment from Lie Nielsen. But the plane is too light and I never liked using it for shooting.

That said, I wouldn't say run out and buy a bigger plane, I'd make your shooting board and see how you do with a #4.

After making probably 6 shooting boards, the one I like the best has a pivot (door jamb pin) on one end and a slotted hole and locking knob on the other end. This allows for a few degrees off 90 either way, which can be handy in some situations, like dialing in a drawer front side.

But the one mistake I've made, and why I'm about to make yet another one -- is not making it long (deep) enough. IOW the fence further away to 1) give me more of a running start and 2) allow a wider board to be shot.

One that I made had a base of melamine which gave a nice slick surface for the plane to ride on.

@J_Graham a 5 1/2 is longer than a 6?

I don't know anything about the Taytool, but I know you can't go wrong with a WoodRiver.

 

[Cuthriell]

You can try Patrick Leach. He sells decent tools and the descriptions are accurate. 5-1/2 Stanley planes show up often.

Real tools at realistic prices.

 

[Westpacx3]

It's not about the width, it's about the weight. Personally I find the weight and length of a #6 just about right. Depends some on the size boards you're shooting. a 6-8" wide board is going to benefit from the extra mass.

Some advocate a LA jack or bevel up. I originally got a LA jack with the hot dog handle attachment from Lie Nielsen. But the plane is too light and I never liked using it for shooting.

That said, I wouldn't say run out and buy a bigger plane, I'd make your shooting board and see how you do with a #4.

After making probably 6 shooting boards, the one I like the best has a pivot (door jamb pin) on one end and a slotted hole and locking knob on the other end. This allows for a few degrees off 90 either way, which can be handy in some situations, like dialing in a drawer front side.

But the one mistake I've made, and why I'm about to make yet another one -- is not making it long (deep) enough. IOW the fence further away to 1) give me more of a running start and 2) allow a wider board to be shot.

One that I made had a base of melamine which gave a nice slick surface for the plane to ride on.

@J_Graham a 5 1/2 is longer than a 6?

I don't know anything about the Taytool, but I know you can't go wrong with a WoodRiver.

Thanks, the board is on the list for today which seems half over now, just looked at the clock...

 

[J_Graham]

@Rwe2156 the no6 is longer by a couple of inches. The width is the same. After reading my post I see where that was confusing haha.

 

[Westpacx3]

@Rwe2156 the no6 is longer by a couple of inches. The width is the same. After reading my post I see where that was confusing haha.

It's not about the width, it's about the weight. Personally I find the weight and length of a #6 just about right. Depends some on the size boards you're shooting. a 6-8" wide board is going to benefit from the extra mass.

Some advocate a LA jack or bevel up. I originally got a LA jack with the hot dog handle attachment from Lie Nielsen. But the plane is too light and I never liked using it for shooting.

That said, I wouldn't say run out and buy a bigger plane, I'd make your shooting board and see how you do with a #4.

After making probably 6 shooting boards, the one I like the best has a pivot (door jamb pin) on one end and a slotted hole and locking knob on the other end. This allows for a few degrees off 90 either way, which can be handy in some situations, like dialing in a drawer front side.

But the one mistake I've made, and why I'm about to make yet another one -- is not making it long (deep) enough. IOW the fence further away to 1) give me more of a running start and 2) allow a wider board to be shot.

One that I made had a base of melamine which gave a nice slick surface for the plane to ride on.

@J_Graham a 5 1/2 is longer than a 6?

I don't know anything about the Taytool, but I know you can't go wrong with a WoodRiver.

Just to complete the thought. I got my first shooting board done. Its not pretty but the #4 works pretty well on it as does my block plane. So far.

Im only thinking of small parts right now but I understand the idea of a heavier plane. Thanks

 

[J_Graham]

Looks nice!
Is that just your own concept or did you follow someone's pattern?

 

[Gofor]

I prefer my #6 bedrock. The bedrock has square side where my Baileys do not, and like DrBob,said, It has enough mass to continue smoothly through the cut on wider pieces..

 

[Westpacx3]

Looks nice!
Is that just your own concept or did you follow someone's pattern?

I copied it from a YouTube video. I figured it was a place to start. I. Too new at this to plan when I'm not sure all the pit falls. Fortunately my wood is free right now so I can redo it when needed. It checks a block for now..

 

[Dee2]

Jim, How about a companion How-to article to Jim's, "How I did it". Post in the Resources forum.

 

[Westpacx3]

Jim, How about a companion How-to article to Jim's, "How I did it". Post in the Resources forum.

I'm sure I can put something together in the next few weeks. Should it be reviewed by staff or somebody prior to posting?

 

[Dee2]

Review not required. If you would like a sanity review before posting, PM it to me.

And, thank you.