1x2x6

[patlaw]

Is there anywhere in Cary/Raleigh to find 1x2x6 lumber that is not furring strips? Lowes and Home Depot used to carry it, but now they don't. Ideally I'd like to have pine. They are for a low budget project, and I don't have my planer setup or room to set it up. I don't have commercial accounts with any of the local companies, so that leaves out several vendors, I assume.

 

[Tarhead]

In the Resources tab at the top of the page. Let your fingers do the searching as I mainly listed hardwoods. Some of the reclaimed dealers should have something that will work...Barn Side of a Broad or Raleigh Reclaimed: Master NC Woodworker Lumber Dealers - Google My Maps

 

[awldune]

If 1.5'' wide is what you want, I would rip these out of a 2x10 or whatever width gives the best value at HD.

 

[1075tech]

If 1.5'' wide is what you want, I would rip these out of a 2x10 or whatever width gives the best value at HD.

I wanted SYP 2x4 for a small project. Home centers only had white wood 2x4s. It was cheaper to buy a SYP 2x8 to rip down than 2 - ww 2x4

 

[patlaw]

I'll probably have to rip them myself, but my narrow ripping of long boards does not always go well. The 1x2s I've bought in the past were great to use. Thanks.

 

[ScottM]

I'll probably have to rip them myself, but my narrow ripping of long boards does not always go well. The 1x2s I've bought in the past were great to use. Thanks.

Use a feather board and that will help with consistent lumber.

 

[Henry W]

I have not checked but it would not surprise me to find that Capitol City Lumber would have such pieces. They are not likely available in 6' lengths though. Check their website. First species I checked was douglas fir and they showed this:


Our 1×2 Doug Fir is sold by the board. Kiln-dried and clear grade with just an occasional pin knot. This material is S4S where both sides and edges are planed smooth. Boards come in lengths 8′ through 18′ lengths. Actual board dimension is 3/4″ thick by 1-1/2″ wide.

Quantity discount tier pricing is available on all orders over 50, 100 and 500 boards.
Available in 4′, 6′ and 8′ lengths through our Online store TotalWoodStore.com.


Clear Pine:
Our 1×2 Clear White Pine (aka Radiata Pine) lumber is sold by the linear foot and comes in random lengths up to 16′. Boards are S4S where both sides and edges are planed smooth. Actual board dimension is 3/4″ thick by 1-1/2″ wide.

Length	Choose an optionBy the Lft.

 

[HMH]

I'll probably have to rip them myself, but my narrow ripping of long boards does not always go well. The 1x2s I've bought in the past were great to use. Thanks.

I wouldn’t consider 3/4” wide to be super narrow. That said, if ripping from dimensional lumber, (8’, 10’, or 12’), cross-cutting to length first would definitely help. Use a feather board ahead of the blade, your riving knife, and a good push stick, (I like my Gripper for this personally, but it’s a matter of preference), and you should be good to go! Not sure how many you need, but subtracting for the kerf, a single 2x10x10’ should give you (20) 3/4”x1.1/2x60” strips.

 

[hymie123]

Home depot in Apex has KD 1X2X6 and 8 ft lengths in stock. 1 in. x 2 in. x 6 ft. Select Kiln-Dried Square Edge Common Softwood Whitewood Board 418530 - The Home Depot

 

[HMH]

Home depot in Apex has KD 1X2X6 and 8 ft lengths in stock. 1 in. x 2 in. x 6 ft. Select Kiln-Dried Square Edge Common Softwood Whitewood Board 418530 - The Home Depot

It would ultimately come down to how badly you hated milling/ ripping here, ha. The 1x2x6’ linked above is $5.77. A 2x10x12’, which would yield (20) 1x2x6’ is $12.98. So for the 20, it would either be $13, and ~15 minutes to rip them down, or $115 for the “pre-ripped” versions. Certainly an expensive 15 minutes! I place a high value on my free time, but my attorney doesn’t even charge me the $400/hr that this equates to, ha.

 

[Gofor]

My only problem with ripping off strips is that they tend to warp badly unless the lumber has been set in my shop drying for at least a couple of weeks. Although the lumber is often labelled k-19 (kiln dried to 19%mc), that has no bearing on how wet the lumber is when it gets to the store. I have picked boards out of stacks that literally dripped water onto the floor. Being transported on open flatbeds, and quite often untarped, the lumber is easily soaked in a rain storm.

 

[patlaw]

Home depot in Apex has KD 1X2X6 and 8 ft lengths in stock. 1 in. x 2 in. x 6 ft. Select Kiln-Dried Square Edge Common Softwood Whitewood Board 418530 - The Home Depot

Awesome. I will be over there in the morning! Thank you!

 

[patlaw]

I wouldn’t consider 3/4” wide to be super narrow. That said, if ripping from dimensional lumber, (8’, 10’, or 12’), cross-cutting to length first would definitely help. Use a feather board ahead of the blade, your riving knife, and a good push stick, (I like my Gripper for this personally, but it’s a matter of preference), and you should be good to go! Not sure how many you need, but subtracting for the kerf, a single 2x10x10’ should give you (20) 3/4”x1.1/2x60” strips.

This procedure is the one I follow, but I am curious why a feather board AFTER the blade is so dangerous. I'm not going to do it, but from a physics perspective, I don't understand why it's dangerous.

 

[Mike Davis]

A feather board after the blade would push the wood into the blade, at the least causing the wood to be cut smaller than required and at the worst causing dangerous kickback.

 

[Gofor]

This procedure is the one I follow, but I am curious why a feather board AFTER the blade is so dangerous. I'm not going to do it, but from a physics perspective, I don't understand why it's dangerous.

If the featherboard is vertical pressing the board down against the table, it is not a problem. If it is pushing sideways, it can force the wood into the upward/toward you moving teeth on the rear of the blade, which is the main culprit in kickback.

 

[patlaw]

If the featherboard is vertical pressing the board down against the table, it is not a problem. If it is pushing sideways, it can force the wood into the upward/toward you moving teeth on the rear of the blade, which is the main culprit in kickback.

What about the angled rollers that JessEm sells? Don't they push down and towards the fence after the blade?

By the way, I tried the 2x10 thing once. The wood was so soft that it wouldn't hold a screw. I have no idea what that wood was.

 

[Gofor]

I cannot knowledgeably answer that question because I have never used the JessEm fixtures. I THINK the JessEm rollers are designed to only rotate in one direction which would stop the board from moving back at you, and with the downward pressure are keeping the board from coming up off the table holding the board. Someone who uses them would be a better source of info.

Kickback is caused when the blade teeth catch the board, lifing it and sending it back to you. The rear teeth are coming up out of the saw moving toward you. Any thing that would cause the board to be pushed into the rear teeth from either side has the potential for causing those teeth to catch in the wood. I will use a featherboard mounted vertically on the fence to keep flexible material flat against the table, and when I have a long board that may have a tendency to rock when I push it [ex: when cutting a rabbet (rebate) on the rear edge of a bookcase panel panel for the back to set in]. Most times, the featherboard is directly over/in line with the center of the blade or just in front of it. It helps to ensure a constant depth of cut. I sometimes use this cutting a dado, but the featherboard is always between the fence and the blade. The only time I one behind the blade pressing toward the fence is when it is not a through-cut (ex: Dado) . When doing this, I mount one vertically on the fence to prevent the board from lifting.

Some other things that can cause kickback:

Cutting wet or stressed wood that closes up on the blade (prevented by using a splitter /riving knife providing they are close to matching the blade thickness). Trying to split a pressure treated 2x4 is a good example of this.

Having the fence misaligned where the back is closer to the blade than the front.

Hope this helps someone.

 

[HMH]

It would help to define the direction of featherboard you are questioning.

A VERTICAL featherboard after the blade, applying downward pressure to the piece between the blade and fence is perfectly fine.

A HORIZONTAL featherboard, (the kind described initially ahead of the blade, to keep the piece tight to the fence), BEHIND the blade would be a very bad idea, as it would be applying horizontal pressure to the offcuts, effectively pushing it into the blade and inviting binding and/ or kickback.

 

[patlaw]

A HORIZONTAL featherboard, (the kind described initially ahead of the blade, to keep the piece tight to the fence), BEHIND the blade would be a very bad idea, as it would be applying horizontal pressure to the offcuts, effectively pushing it into the blade and inviting binding and/ or kickback.

Not arguing...asking. Assuming the fence is on the right side of the blade, how does a horizontal featherboard (or a mechanism on top of the board between the blade and the fence) pushing the board into the fence increase the chance of kickback. I can easily see the problem with any sort of restraint of the waste portion (the part to the left of the blade) of the board. I certainly wasn't advocating for a featherboard after the blade pushing the board and the offcut into the fence. That would be suicide.

 

[HMH]

Most (all?) horizontal feather boards attach at table level, in the miter slot on the left of the blade, (or a similar location w/ mag switches/ etc), and apply pressure to the side of the board, by design - pushing laterally into the fence, which AFTER the blade, would be the waste side - a definite bad idea. You get it.

I’ve never seen a horizontal feather-board that would ride along the top of a board, (don’t see how that would work actually), but maybe there’s something out there.

For the purpose of this conversation - I’m referring to featherboards as featherboards. Jessem stock guides, (which I have and love), board buddies, etc, are a different animal entirely.

Moral of the story is, let the waste/ offcut after the blade go. Featherboards (horizontal) go before the blade.

Safe returns.