Which saws?

[Kicbak]

I'm trying to figure out which handsaws I need for general furniture building.
Does this make sense?
2 panel saw - 1 crosscut, 1 rip
2 backsaws (tenon saw or carcass saw?) 1 crosscut, 1 rip
1 dovetail saw

I have a panel crosscut and the dovetail saw. I'm using a crappy borg crosscut backsaw but its thick and crappy. I don't have any rip saws right now. Does this list look pretty good for doing most joints and dimensioning glue ups?

Wes

 

[CarvedTones]

This is a hand tools forum post (in case someone clicks the front page link and doesn't notice)...

One big question - are you hung up on using Western saws?

Left off your list is a flush cut saw.

 

[Kicbak]

I really only want to use western saws. I want to be able to sharpen/reshape them myself. I have a Japanese pull saw but I broke a tooth and the blades are basically a throw-away item.

I'm not sure if I need a flush cut saw as I can cut it close enough to the surface and clean it up with a low angle block plane.

 

[CarvedTones]

Yes, the majority of Japanese saws sold in the US are the disposables. But you can get nicer ones.

If you look at the saws on this page, the ones that are made by specific craftsmen are generally ones that can be resharpened and the detailed description indicates whether they can or not. They do sell the files to sharpen them also.

Now, having said all that, I primarily use the throwaway blades. They are cheap and it takes me a while to wear one out. But I get the Zeta blades from Tashiro Hardware, which is a tradeoff; a little more trouble and cost to get them but they last a lot longer than the ones at the home stores. In fact, the reason the Zeta blades are not resharpenable is that they are C68 on the hardness scale, while most files are C61.

Among my Western saws, my most used is my Gent's saw.

 

[BSHuff]

What work flow are you planning on using?

All hand tools? Or some power tools?

For ME, I find I just do 'detail' work with hand saws, and use power tools to get my shapes close, so that reduces the numbers of the bigger hand saws I need. However if you want to do it all with a hand tool, that will raise the number of tools needed. I have the Veritas dovetail set of 3 saws and have the Carcass set on my 'want' list.

 

[Kicbak]

The plan is to have a full set of hand tools when I move abroad. All of my power tools will get sold or stored while we are gone. I have most of the hand tools I need but I am still trying to decide the set of saws I need.

 

[froglips]

Its a start

Likely you want to add to the list a saw set and the appropriate files to fit your saws.

You might want both a tenon (filed rip) and a carcass saw (filed crosscut). If you only want one, I'd opt for a carcass filed rip.

When you cut tenon cheeks, you really want rip. You can cut the shoulder just fine with a rip saw if you cut a good starting groove.

Only other saw you may consider is a coping and/or fret saw. Depends on what kind of work you see yourself doing.

A totally different approach would be a frame and a bow saw with a variety of blades. It'd give you a smaller kit and be more portable. You loose some of the advantages of a large plate, but nothing a bit of practice can't overcome.

Getting all symanticy, I believe they refer to "panel saws" as smaller versions of what most think of as hand saws. Panel saws are meant to be used on the bench for "dainty" work.

If you see yourself doing all your stock ripping and crosscutting, I'd look for full sized saws (ala Disston D8)

Jim

 

[Dean Maiorano]

Andy, those are great links, thanks for sharing.

Wes, regarding Japanese handsaws, have you looked at Japan Woodworker out of California?
Take a look at this site, they have beautiful handsaws and they also sell the appropriate files:

http://japanwoodworker.com/dept.asp?dept_id=13079&s=JapanWoodworker

They also sell some quality Western Style saws, by the way.

 

[Kicbak]

I have a D-23 cross cut and some unknown dovetail saw. I didn't include it but I do have a coping saw.

So it seems my next 2 will be a carcass saw and D-23 or similar both I'll file for ripping. I'd rather get an old tool and fix it up then buy something shiny.
Thanks everyone.

Wes

 

[Gofor]

Beings you are going to hand tools, if you don't have Leonard Lee's book "The complete guide to sharpening", you may want to pick a copy up. It covers pretty much all tools, including many foreign ones (i,e Japanese saws) as well as covering the rake, fleam, and bevels, so you can file one to a hybrid if you need to.

Also, you may want to check out the Lumberjocks forum. It is a pretty civil international forum, and has several members from the Netherlands, Denmark, etc. You may be able to connect with some locals for wood and tool sources through them.

I wish you well on your trip and future furniture adventures.

Go

 

[eyekode]

My saw arsenal is comprised of all of the Veritas saws, a couple Japanese style saws and a coping saw.

View image in gallery​

For joinery I would be fine with just the two Veritas carcass saws and maybe a coping/fret saw. They may be a little oversized for making tiny dovetails but you could still make them work.

But I don't see myself using saws to rip or resaw long boards any time soon.

I hate to mention this but what about a Festool or similar track saw? It doesn't take up that much room although it could take up a large part of the budget . I hear they do a pretty good job a ripping. And they are great with plywood which you may or may not use depending on what you make

Salem

 

[Kicbak]

I have a Festool 55. I am moving to Amsterdam, thus my current power tools will not work and will be in storage. I am going to try a "powerless" :wwink: set of tools I can take with me. The projects I make will be small and most likely gifts. I may buy cheap tools I can give away when we come back here like a hand drill.

I have most of what I need other then deciding on the saws I need to acquire.

 

[ehpoole]

I have a Festool 55. I am moving to Amsterdam, thus my current power tools will not work and will be in storage.

Just an FYI, but if it is the voltage difference that you are concerned about, you can purchase a step-up/step-down transform that will allow you to run your 120V power tools off 220-240V. They will run a bit slower and have a little less power at the 50Hz frequency, but they should work just fine. To be clear, I'm not talking about the small travel adapters but rather a larger transformer that can safely run a 2000-3000 Watt load continuously. They typically sell for a few hundred dollars, but would allow you to get by with your existing power tools.

On the otherhand, if you are leaving them behind for the sake of minimizing shipping, then nevermind.

 

[Glennbear]

I do not have any saw recommendations but hopefully Bas will chime in since he hails from that part of the world and may be able to tell you what you will likely find locally. :wsmile: