I'm building a hand tool chest (out of junk wood) from an article with plans in a "free issue" of Woodsmith that arrived unsolicited in the mailbox. Now, I shan't disparage that for which I have paid nothing, but it has been a bit of an effort to work with the plan. This particular plan contains no cut list. Sure, I can sit down and develop the list, but golly, isn't that part of the deal (and that is what this post is about... the deal with plans).
The plans have circled characters (pointers to details) which have NO corresponding info in the plan (article). That's frustrating, and unheard of in the construction trade.
There are some details. They don't correspond with the circled letters in the plan view. That's frustrating, and indicative of designer incompetence in the construction trade.
There is no procedure set forth. Construction plans (for a McDonalds, or a Federal Detention Center, for example) have no step by step procedure, but that's a different breed of cat.
Today, I have switched between dado and WWII about five times already, because I'm following the text in the article. The article built the entire case before any discussion of drawers. Tomorrow I have to set up the dado and then revert back to the WWII to deal with drawer slots.
Were I to work from an ideal set of plans, I think (and remember, I'm a rookie/newbie) I would look first to the cut list. I would resaw, joint and plane everything to thickness and then rip and crosscut to dimension. With a stack of ready material, I would change out the blade, slash out the grooves/dadoes, and then begin assembly. I would hope that my instructions would tell me to make ALL the cuts with the 1/2" dado at 3/16" deep, then raise the dado to 1/4", make them, then change dado width, make the cuts, and then put the WWII back on. I would dry fit and then I get the Titebond out.
Now, my ordeal may be a result of my inexperience. Next time, I shall prepare my own cut list (if it's absent), develop my own protocol (if it's absent), and save several hours of frustration (let me say here that anything I do in the shop is pleasure, although it would have been more pleasant had I not changed blades so often.)
So here's the topic for discourse: if you work with PURCHASED plans, do you find that
a: cheap ones suck
b: most suck
c: good plans provide a Betty Crocker approach, as I laid out above
d: YMMV
e: We don' need no steenkin' plans
Elaboration, as distinguished from a simple "color the appropriate circle", would be helpful.
Thanks,
Jim
The plans have circled characters (pointers to details) which have NO corresponding info in the plan (article). That's frustrating, and unheard of in the construction trade.
There are some details. They don't correspond with the circled letters in the plan view. That's frustrating, and indicative of designer incompetence in the construction trade.
There is no procedure set forth. Construction plans (for a McDonalds, or a Federal Detention Center, for example) have no step by step procedure, but that's a different breed of cat.
Today, I have switched between dado and WWII about five times already, because I'm following the text in the article. The article built the entire case before any discussion of drawers. Tomorrow I have to set up the dado and then revert back to the WWII to deal with drawer slots.
Were I to work from an ideal set of plans, I think (and remember, I'm a rookie/newbie) I would look first to the cut list. I would resaw, joint and plane everything to thickness and then rip and crosscut to dimension. With a stack of ready material, I would change out the blade, slash out the grooves/dadoes, and then begin assembly. I would hope that my instructions would tell me to make ALL the cuts with the 1/2" dado at 3/16" deep, then raise the dado to 1/4", make them, then change dado width, make the cuts, and then put the WWII back on. I would dry fit and then I get the Titebond out.
Now, my ordeal may be a result of my inexperience. Next time, I shall prepare my own cut list (if it's absent), develop my own protocol (if it's absent), and save several hours of frustration (let me say here that anything I do in the shop is pleasure, although it would have been more pleasant had I not changed blades so often.)
So here's the topic for discourse: if you work with PURCHASED plans, do you find that
a: cheap ones suck
b: most suck
c: good plans provide a Betty Crocker approach, as I laid out above
d: YMMV
e: We don' need no steenkin' plans
Elaboration, as distinguished from a simple "color the appropriate circle", would be helpful.
Thanks,
Jim