Which Size Bandsaw Blade Should I buy for this project . . .

[charlessenf]

I have a 14" Delta Band saw and will be cutting a curvy fence picket out of some

5/8 in. x 5-1/2 in. x 6 ft. Pressure-Treated Pine Dog-Ear Fence Pickets​

Outdoor Essentials 5/8 in. x 5-1/2 in. x 6 ft. Pressure-Treated Pine Dog-Ear Fence Picket 102560 - The Home Depot

The 6 ft. x 5-1/2 in. x 5/8 in. Pine Dog-Ear Picket is made from pine for durable, long-lasting performance. This all-wood picket is 6 ft. long. It has a classic dog-ear pattern that can add charm to almost any outdoor space. It is paintable and stainable to match with your exterior decor. You...

www.homedepot.com

The tightest radius is likely to be 1.25" At present, I've only got a 1/2" wide blade in the saw and would like an excuse to purchase a new blade and cutting sixty-one of these pickets should serve that purpose.

So far, I've gotten along well enough (ten plus years?) without buying any blades ('till I got this 1/2" number) and did cut all the pickets I'll be replacing with whatever smaller blade I may have hanging about (just have to recall where I put 'em, of course).

But, since I first did that deck, I signed up here and thought to ask for an experienced opinion as to, not only the size, but perhaps a good type and quality of blade as well.

Anyone?

Then, I noticed this question has been (last month) asked and answered. Even with a video. It popped up right after I saved my post! "
Bandsaw blade choice for curves only

• bshilkitus
• Jun 4, 2024
• Workshop Discussion

Replies7Views389
Jun 6, 2024
bob vaughan
B

"

 

[Mike Davis]

For 1 1/2 inch radius you need a 3/8" or smaller blade.

 

[charlessenf]

For 1 1/2 inch radius you need a 3/8" or smaller blade.

THANKS!
I'll need to print this one out for the shop wall! Thanks!
HERE'S A VERSION FOR A SHOP WALL OR FOR A SIDE OF BS
(COULDN'T A DUNNIT W/O YA!)

 

[ScottM]

Not sure how many you want to make but for a handful you could cut them on a scroll saw.

 

[Ricksmi]

The chart by Mike is perfect, thanks Mike.

 

[bob vaughan]

1/4" six tooth skip.
That's the blade size and tooth configuration that Chuck Olson recommended to me decades back. He was right, of course.

 

[bob vaughan]

View attachment 230176

Consider a drill press with a 2-1/2" bit for those semi-circular cuts at the top. It might be faster than band sawing 61 of them.

 

[Jack A.]

Consider a drill press with a 2-1/2" bit for those semi-circular cuts at the top. It might be faster than band sawing 61 of them.

I would be looking at a template and a router vs. cutting out a bunch of those on a bandsaw.

 

[charlessenf]

I would be looking at a template and a router vs. cutting out a bunch of those on a bandsaw.

We do both - first a rough cout on the Bandsaw, then I fasten the piece to a template and 'refine it' nicely and precisely.

The Hole Saw Approach would likely work - better if I was certain my left was a mirror of my right (pattern side, that is).

If I had some sort of CAD program, I could create such a symetric pattern and possibly get one of the local 'print shops' or Office Depot/Staples to enlarge it to finished dimensions and print me a couple of copies.

Sa it is, we copied the pattern from a magazine cover many years ago and my neighbor Joe Watson (RIP) cut the original pattern for me. That got lost and I made another using a randomly selected picket when I had to repair a section a few years back. Apparently neither Joe's nor my new pattern are perfectly symmetrical.

I like the approach. I did a deck on a home I rehabbed in Florida years ago and used a Pineapple motif alternating High Apple then Low Apple such that each pickett had the right half of the 'apple cut out of its left side and the left half of an 'apple cut out of its right side. How's your magination?

Absent a Bandsaw at the time, I mounted a jigsaw upside down in a vise after locking the trigger 'ON' and used a foot switch (I think) to control the power to it. Much easier to cut half a pineapple than it might sound - thank fully, it was a small deck and I only did part of it with the fancy smancy decoration.

On this deck, I did opposing roosters in the swinging gates - got to keep the hens happy.

 

[charlessenf]

Not sure how many you want to make SIxty-One

 

[Mike Davis]

If I had some sort of CAD program, I could create such a symetric pattern and possibly get one of the local 'print shops' or Office Depot/Staples to enlarge it to finished dimensions and print me a couple of copies.

I don’t have any cad program, but I took old school drafting and could make precision drawings for you that would be symmetrical. If you want to send me your pattern or a tracing of one slat. I can do the drawing and send you a couple copies. PM me for my address.

 

[Henry W]

I don't understand the symmetry issue (process wise). Here's how I'd do this
- Mark the centerline on the board,
- Use a paper template to mark for one side, then flip it over and mark the other.
- Cut/shape/sand to the line on both sides.
Is this not the standard process (non-CAD/CNC)?

I'd rough cut with a bandsaw and use a router bit with a bearing (and a hardboard template) to make these.

 

[tvrgeek]

I like one size smaller than the chart. It does depend a little on set and as I hone my new blades, maybe I have a hair's less set.

BS/router would seem to be the quickest and most accurate process. Only sand one template to "spec".

 

[charlessenf]

Consider a drill press with a 2-1/2" bit for those semi-circular cuts at the top. It might be faster than band sawing 61 of them.

I have considered your suggestion. I thought of constructing a positioning guide on the Drill Press Table that would hold the stock in 'the right' position as drilled each side. I fumbled about with how to make the guide so that I could slide it right or left as needed to cut both sides.

Then, it finally 'hit me' - flip it over stupid!

Anyone need 122 "toy wheels" - +/- 2.5" diameter, 5/8" thick?

Make that 122 "flat toy wheels"

 

[Henry W]

I have considered your suggestion. I thought of constructing a positioning guide on the Drill Press Table that would hold the stock in 'the right' position as drilled each side. I fumbled about with how to make the guide so that I could slide it right or left as needed to cut both sides.

Then, it finally 'hit me' - flip it over stupid!

Anyone need 122 "toy wheels" - +/- 2.5" diameter, 5/8" thick?

I do like the DP idea for the circular portions of the pattern, especially if you have the bit. That area would have had the most router tear out if you did not move 'downhill' on each side.
Rest of it looks to me like a BS & router, but I can understand not wanting to hear a screaming router for that many pieces. A bandsaw or jigsaw is much more pleasant to listen to (to my ears at least).

 

[charlessenf]

A bandsaw is pleasant to listen to . . .

I watched a video where the fella 'trued up' his BS Blade with sharpening stones and went too far - apparently grinding off the set of the teeth on a 1/4" blade. It was impossible to turn 'round much at all. So I decided to build a jig and a hole saw (HFT) to remove the waste as shown (above). Then, when it came to the BS work, I tried this and that - I've Olsen "Quiet Blocks(?)" - and finally gave up and mounted my 'other' old (bit rusty) 1/4" blade. Had to fight a bit of corrosion that stopped it at the lower guide blocks 'till I managed to file it smooth (w/o harming the set). Then I tried it and voila! Such a difference a set makes!

I may not need my hole saw jig for the next batch - just a fresh 1/4" TPI blade from Klingspor!

Ah, the epitome of an actual Learning Curve!

 

[ErinJ]

Rule of thumb is that the size of the material before you can determine the blade pitch. Most of the time, you go fine tooth configuration for cutting thin ones, and you go coarse for cutting big ones.