Which Glue: Epoxy, titebond II or Marine Resorcinol

[Mark Gottesman]

I need to build up one end of a garden tool handle so I can fit it to a hoe.
See http://ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=37171 for previous thread.

The main beam is Oak. I want to add a 3/8" slab of wood to 3 sides. This will give me enough meat to taper fit the head.

My question is what sort of glue to use. It needs to take the impact and shock of heavy duty hoeing plus moisture exposure.

Titebond II?

epoxy?

Resorcinol: Not unless, I can find something in a smaller unit.

Something else?

 

[SteveColes]

I would think a marine epoxy.

 

[Mike Davis]

The iron ring will hold the shims against the shaft some small wood pegs will hold the shims in place. No glue needed. But epoxy would be the choice.

 

[gazzer]

Mark,

There is much controversy about oak (especially white oak) and epoxy - google it and be prepared to suffer through many opinions. The general consensus is that compatibility is questionable. Some folks have had good experience, though. I personally would not use epoxy for oak in my boat building projects but glue bonds are more critical there. You may want to just give Titebond III (not II) a try. You'll get a few seasons out of it at least, and when and if it fails, you won't be out much cash.

If you want to try epoxy, G/Flex from West System is reputed to work well with difficult to glue woods. All of the marine glues tend to be costly though so it may be cheaper to start with a bigger blank.

Good luck.

-G

 

[JimD]

I would use Titebond III. It meets the standards for a water proof glue but is not for things that will be constantly wet. A hoe should not be constantly wet.

Jim

 

[junquecol]

I would go another route. Contact Scott Smith and see if he has a white oak billet that is large enough to do what you need. Then using a combination of hand tools (yes I said hand tools), especially a draw knife make the exact handle you need.

 

[Mark Gottesman]

Yes, I would like to get a one piece billet to work on so I did not have to scab on spacers.

I am using handtools to do this since it was just as quick if not quicker to use them. they are a bit more forgiving than power tools in that it is a bit more controllable.

Used a rip saw to thin down the handle area and then a draw knife, #4 plane and a spoke shave to clean up and oval the handle. My workmate does a decent job as a workholder.

It took me about an hour to get my spokeshave (bought it years ago at an auction) out and tuned up. Filed and ground everything flat and shiny and put an edge on it. I think I will need to steepen up the edge since it seems to be turning on the Oak.

So, now that I will have one handle under my belt, it would be good to make a spare.