UV/Fade resistant finishes and stains

[MattW]

I'm planning to build a walnut table. It will be inside in a room that doesn't get a lot of sunlight, but it does get a little sunlight certain times of the year. If possible, during the finishing process, I would like to add in a product that provides some resistance to fading.

I have been told that the Minwax gel stains have a UV blocker. I was thinking of testing one of the lighter shades of to see how it affects the color of the wood. Does anyone have any advice, or suggestions?

 

[srhardwoods]

I can't speak for Minwax stains, but I use General Finishes topcoat High Performance, it has built in UV Stabilizer. Sprays nicely and a nice powder when sanding.

http://generalfinishes.com/retail-p...sealers/high-performance-polyurethane-topcoat

Chris

 

[MattW]

I was just speaking with someone at a local hardware store when I was looking for samples. He recommended a similar product by another manufacturer. I called General Finishes and they said that the UV resistance is meant to extend the life of the finish, its not meant to reduce fading. They suggested one of their light pigmented stains to help reduce fading.

I like the look of Danish oil and Tung oil on Walnut, so my next question is whether you can use a light stain with either of those products, and if so, in what sequence?

 

[Endless Pursuit]

Call me crazy but automotive clear coats have the highest level of UV blocker than any finish you can buy.

 

[Phil S]

Call me crazy but automotive clear coats have the highest level of UV blocker than any finish you can buy.

Indeed they work great, but you must be very careful with your personal protective gear when spraying and they are quite expensive

 

[chris_goris]

You may want to investigate what Sikkens has to offer. Like Cetol UV Interior.

 

[Jeff]

I'm planning to build a walnut table. It will be inside in a room that doesn't get a lot of sunlight, but it does get a little sunlight certain times of the year. If possible, during the finishing process, I would like to add in a product that provides some resistance to fading.

1. I think you're making "much ado about nothing" (W. Shakespeare) and overanalyzing the potential fading.

2. Why stain a beautiful wood that can stand on its own with a proper finish?

 

[MattW]

Jeff, I think you're right.

My wife is pregnant and insists that we don't have any newly finished furniture in the house that may be off-gassing VOCs, so I'm going to test an oil/varnish mixture composed of 100% tung oil, citrus solvent, and VOC free poly from Ecos Paints and Varnishes (which has a UV inhibitor). I figured on using that same poly as a topcoat.

If anyone has any experience with something like this I would be interested in their thoughts. Otherwise, I'll let you know how it works out on the test piece.

 

[MattW]

Can I mix a thinned tung oil with a water based polyurethane?

 

[Jeff]

Can I mix a thinned tung oil with a water based polyurethane?

No! Tung oil thinned with what? Oil, MS, and water don't mix the last time that I tried it.

 

[Endless Pursuit]

If you are doing the finishing in the same building as your wife is, use something like Danish Oil. If a separate building, use a water - based or wipe on poly. They don't outgas after 24 hours of drying.

For the record, at equal airborne levels, household ammonia (windex or latex paint) is far more toxic than fumes from mineral spirits. Just because something smells doesn't make it more toxic than another compound that doesn't have an odor. Methane being a prime example.

 

[Jeff]

My wife is pregnant and insists that we don't have any newly finished furniture in the house that may be off-gassing VOCs, so I'm going to test an oil/varnish mixture composed of 100% tung oil, citrus solvent, and VOC free poly from Ecos Paints and Varnishes (which has a UV inhibitor). I figured on using that same poly as a topcoat.

A very valid concern for the growing family.

There's a new post in the Finishing Forum.

 

[Howard Acheson]

If you are doing the finishing in the same building as your wife is, use something like Danish Oil. If a separate building, use a water - based or wipe on poly. They don't outgas after 24 hours of drying.

"Danish Oil" is a marketing name for an finishing product consisting of mineral spirits, a drying oil like linseed oil or pure tung oil and an oil based varnish. Every seller of "Danish Oil" uses a different specific formula. None are VOC free or produce reduced VOC's. The component of the danish oil that produces the VOC's is the mineral spirits. Any finish that contains mineral spirits or some other thinner will produce VOC's until all the solvent has evaporated.

Waterborne finishes are almost totally VOC free.

Wipe-on oil based finishes are made by adding more mineral spirits to an oil based varnish or poly varnish. Because of the added thinner--mineral spirits--, wipe-on finishes are a significantly larger producer of VOC's and will produce VOC' to a much larger extent than a waterborne finish.

If you want to reduce VOC's, use a waterborne finish.

 

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> I called General Finishes and they said that the UV resistance is meant to extend the life of the finish, its not meant to reduce fading.

Yes, protecting and extending the life of the finish is the role of a UV inhibitor. Most work by absorbing the UV. At some time in the future the UV inhibitor becomes saturated and no longer absorbs the UV. This occurs within 2-10 years or so. At that point the finish needs to be sanded and a couple of new coats applied.

While finish life is the main purpose of UV inhibitor, it will somewhat reduce the amount of UV reaching the surfaces of the wood thereby slowing the fading affects of the UV.