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If piece has a "blind side" that won't be seen, then THREE screws through the template. I always use three, because if one failed there would still be two holding assembly. Double stick tape is a PITA for me. If I were making several multiples, I would add some vacuum tape and a fitting to template. Place on stock, turn on vacuum and route away. Joewoodworker.com has best price on vacuum tape that I know of.
I've been using DS tape as well -- usually the "turners tape" from WC. It's strong and easy to peel ... though can be a PITA when it sticks really good.
J
jeff...
If I'm going to free hand with a router then it's c-clamps, it's it's going on the router table then I'll use double sided duct tape like Dave. The tape reside cleans of with
Naphtha - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
(lighter fluid) pretty easily. Just be careful with it, it is light fluid after all...
Mineral spirits - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
also works pretty well, but not near as well at naphtha.
Thanks
Naphtha - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
(lighter fluid) pretty easily. Just be careful with it, it is light fluid after all...
Mineral spirits - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
also works pretty well, but not near as well at naphtha.
Thanks
^
Gofor,
That's a common way to do it in most furniture factorys. Use a good 1/2 plywood form, drive in some nails slightly larger than finish nails, clip off the heads and file to a sharp point. They will hold your stock just fine in most situations. If you are getting crazy with the amount of wood you are removing, you might need additonal holding. Are you shaping all the way around? You can use a lever clamp (can't think of the brand name) to help clamp it to the form also.
Gofor,
That's a common way to do it in most furniture factorys. Use a good 1/2 plywood form, drive in some nails slightly larger than finish nails, clip off the heads and file to a sharp point. They will hold your stock just fine in most situations. If you are getting crazy with the amount of wood you are removing, you might need additonal holding. Are you shaping all the way around? You can use a lever clamp (can't think of the brand name) to help clamp it to the form also.
M
McRabbet
Reggie,
Fellow NCWW member SteveD made a big order of Adirondak chairs several years ago and showed me the vacuum templates he used for pattern routing the cypress parts. It made the process very fast and left no scars on the wood. Each template simply had a weather seal tape around the perimeter and a 1/4" tubing connector to draw the air out between the template and the stock. All of the pieces were cut out on his router table against a starter pin using a pattern bit with the bearing running against the template side.
Fellow NCWW member SteveD made a big order of Adirondak chairs several years ago and showed me the vacuum templates he used for pattern routing the cypress parts. It made the process very fast and left no scars on the wood. Each template simply had a weather seal tape around the perimeter and a 1/4" tubing connector to draw the air out between the template and the stock. All of the pieces were cut out on his router table against a starter pin using a pattern bit with the bearing running against the template side.
I use DS tape and/ or hot glue.
1) There are several brands of DS tape though. Some work much better than others. The kind they sell at Walmart (can't remember the name) is horrible; it leaves a sticky mess that is hard to remove. At Lowes on the other hand they sell a brand (I think it's the 3M brand specifically) that goes on and comes off easily. I'm planning a Lowes run in the morning and will report back with the name brand I normally use.
2) Hot melt glue works well for a lot of applications. I sometimes use it for attaching temporary sacrificial fences on the TS or router table. It normally leaves no residue on the pieces and pops off easily with a plastic putty scraper or glue spreader. I find the hot glue works best if you put down several evenly spaced dots around the workpiece, rather than trying to lay down a thin bead over the surface of the workpiece. For template routing hot glue works fine if you are not hogging off a bunch of material.
J
1) There are several brands of DS tape though. Some work much better than others. The kind they sell at Walmart (can't remember the name) is horrible; it leaves a sticky mess that is hard to remove. At Lowes on the other hand they sell a brand (I think it's the 3M brand specifically) that goes on and comes off easily. I'm planning a Lowes run in the morning and will report back with the name brand I normally use.
2) Hot melt glue works well for a lot of applications. I sometimes use it for attaching temporary sacrificial fences on the TS or router table. It normally leaves no residue on the pieces and pops off easily with a plastic putty scraper or glue spreader. I find the hot glue works best if you put down several evenly spaced dots around the workpiece, rather than trying to lay down a thin bead over the surface of the workpiece. For template routing hot glue works fine if you are not hogging off a bunch of material.
J
I find that with DS tape, little pieces hold just as well as large patches and are a lot easier to pop off. The brand is important and lately I've been using the stuff from Woodcraft. Before DS tape, I used 1/2" brads on the 'back' sides.
Nails or screws if holes won't matter. Otherwise, I use carpet tape. This is a double-sided tape that is cloth rather than paper. It holds well (sometimes too well) and is relatively easy to remove. I just rub my thumb against it to pop up a corner and then roll it up and of.
-G
-G
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