Thinking cap time...

[Jim Murphy]

I'm seeking the best way to cut 6" S&D PVC with SQUARE ENDS for my dust collection system. I have tablesaw, bandsaw, Compound Miter Saw, Sawzall, skilsaw, jigsaw, dozuki, hack saws, dull handsaws, a pocket knife, various files, a grinder, coping saw, utility knife, scissors, PVC cutter w/ 1" max cut, router, shucks, maybe more stuff. Anyway, I would like to use something with a jig to cut various length and cut them square. A hand saw without help is OUT, I just can't do that.

Now, these pipes will come 14 feet long, so I'm thinking some sort of jig along the lines of a simple purpose made miter box jib with the sawzall doing the work might be the way to go. However, having great faith in the experience and resourcefulness inherent in this group, I would be remiss should I not seek assistance.

Winning entry gets the scrap pipe for making whatever you'd like. You can make a neat cat food dispenser.

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What a beautiful day today (Saturday, 4/28/07). :eusa_clap :eusa_clap I did not spend one second in the shop today, there are many hot and humid days ahead when the shop will be a relatively cool reprieve.

 

[gator]

I think I would consider taking the miter saw outside (to save a mess in the shop I'd do it outside with any method) and use it. I don't remember what size CMS you have but even if it is a 10", you can rotate the tube for two or three cuts. Just keep the tube tight on the table and tight against the fence.

George

 

[Tarhead]

Jim,
I measured in from the end of the pipe, drew a 8-10 reference marks around the pipe w/a Sharpie marker, connected the dots and cut on the line with a regular handsaw. You have a little wiggle room inside the connectors so the cut does not need to be super precise. Tried a jigsaw and it shattered. Read horror stories of pipe exploding with CMS, recipricating saws, tablesaws and bandsaws.
Did you get a shipment from Pickens, SC (really it's Pumpkintown)? You're fixin' to suck big time:-D .

Mark

 

[Nativespec]

I have always used my miter saw-quick and square.

 

[dino drosas]

Mitre saw is the only way to go. Always square and exact length

 

[Travis Porter]

Everyone is saying miter saw, but will a miter saw cut 6" S&D? Seems a bit large to me?

 

[DaveO]

Everyone is saying miter saw, but will a miter saw cut 6" S&D? Seems a bit large to me?

Not in one thru cut, but if you cut and then rotate it a bit, you should cut right on thru and not get off your line like with a square timber.

Dave

 

[McRabbet]

I just cut some 4" S&D pipe the other day with my 12" CMS (not a slider) and could go all the way through with my 96-tooth crosscut blade. With 6" pipe, you exceed the available radius of the blade, so the stock needs to be rotated to complete a cut. For safe hold down, I would use a ratchet-style band clamp around the longest section of the fence and base and solid support for the extended end of the pipe. Saw slowly. Be careful not to distort the pipe when clamping as it may rebound when you saw it. And wear eye protection, please. Be prepared for lots of static charged PVC sawdust! And let me know how it worked as I plan to upgrade my DC ducts to 6" PVC later this summer.

Rob

ps -- where did you buy your 6" S&D? It is hard to find around here (I found 10' lengths in Asheville through Ferguson Plumbing). Lowe's here carries 6x6x6 wyes, 45's, couplings, 22-1/2's and caps, but no sweep 90's or 6x6x4 wyes.

 

[Jim Murphy]

I have a clamp for the Dewalt, maybe I'll make a V-thing to hold the pipe. Yes, outside, support at the long end, goggles for sure, I saw slowly anyway. 96 tooth Forrest Chopmaster in the saw.

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Rob, I bought my fittings online from McMaster, even with shipping it was cheaper than Lowes. My Lowes in Raleigh carries green 6" S&D, but it's $34 for a 14' piece, Ferguson in Raleigh quoted $2/ft. I haven't purchased the pipe yet, I'm struggling with how to carry a 14' pipe in a 5' pickup truck bed (I'm gonna make a rack out of 2X4s, screwed together and strapped down to the bed, transport the pipe over-cab, and then reclaim the studs... that's the current plan, anyway.)

Are you sure Lowes had a 6x6x6 wye? McMaster doesn't have it in 6", and it would save a little assembly time and effort if I could get one. Not worth driving to Asheville, though.

Thanks for all the suggestions.:icon_thum

I'll have an update when I get done. For sure this project has consumed more cranial athletics than anything I've done so far. I have the shop layout in AutoCad and am designing the pipe network with the computer. I even built exact dimensions for long sweep and wye fittings, so I'll have a cut sheet before I ever drag the CMS outside.

Cutting holes in my pretty floor is intimidating. Somebody, tell me, it's a shop, doggone it. Cut away and enjoy!

Jim

 

[Bernhard]

Lowes on 70W near the Woodcraft store carries 10' pieces. Had them on clearance a couple of weeks ago. I bought 5 sticks for -I think- $14/piece.
They did have a bunch more in the warehouse. They also had a good selection on fittings.

Cheers
Bernhard

 

[junquecol]

I would use a piece of nylon mason's line, or some thin aircraft cable. Make a "U" shaped box large enough to hold pipe. Similar to old wooden miter saw box. On the two sides, make each them out of two pieces, with a space in between the two pieces to clear your line/ aircraft cable. Add a set of handles to cable/ line so you can pull them. Set pipe in box. Put cable over top of pipe and in the space between the two pieces of the sides. Pull handles like you would a cross cut saw. Just don't stop cable/ line in the cut. It will be welded in place, by melted plastic. We use this method to cut drain lines down in a ditch, just without the box. This way we don't have to dig a hole large enough for the Jones Saw. (Jones Saw is a brand of saw for cutting plastic drain/ sewer lines.) I will keep my winnings next to the prize for Kidd Brewer's sign- You will be glad you did.

 

[FredP]

i beleive you are just up the street from me. i think my 15" hitachi will cut it in a single pass. if you want to come by with pipe and cut list we can cut it all in a hurry.

fred p

 

[Jim Murphy]

Hmmmmm.:eusa_thin

Mason cord or electric cord...

Somehow, as much as I was intrigued by the concept of cutting pipe with nylon cord, the idea of using a suitably sized electric miter box might win out. And I must admit, I did wonder if the crosscutting mason cord miter box was anything like sending the new guy for striped paint or board stretchers.

Fred, when I finish futzing with the design plan and get the cutlist and pipe, I'll get with you and take you up on your generous offer.

 

[FredP]

Hmmmmm.:eusa_thin

Mason cord or electric cord...

Somehow, as much as I was intrigued by the concept of cutting pipe with nylon cord, the idea of using a suitably sized electric miter box might win out. And I must admit, I did wonder if the crosscutting mason cord miter box was anything like sending the new guy for striped paint or board stretchers.

Fred, when I finish futzing with the design plan and get the cutlist and pipe, I'll get with you and take you up on your generous offer.

any time. i will pm the number.

fred p

 

[junquecol]

Fred, Hope you aren't planning to use that blade on anything else. It will be coated with small globs of melted plastic. Having done plumbing for over twenty years, I have a couple of blades that look like the birds used them for a repository. YUK! Doesn't make any difference if it is a carbide tipped blade. You might try spraying blade with Pam prior to cutting.

 

[NCPete]

wouldn't running the blade through some large chunk of wood take the plastic off??? like it does my coated DW trimsaw blade?

 

[junquecol]

Local sharpening services send blades back sharp, but not cleaned. Stuff gums up their flap heels also. The plastic is literally welded to sides of blade. Does the same thing, but to a lesser degree, on coated blades. I have a pretty red and white blade (Freud) in one of my miter saws. Brand doesn't matter. You might also try some wax stick like the guys who cut aluminum for store front windows use. Lennox sells it for bandsaw blades.

 

[Travis]

I marked my pipes with a thick sharpie and plowd through them with a saws-all. Then I cleaned he ends up with 60 grit paper.

 

[FredP]

Fred, Hope you aren't planning to use that blade on anything else. It will be coated with small globs of melted plastic. Having done plumbing for over twenty years, I have a couple of blades that look like the birds used them for a repository. YUK! Doesn't make any difference if it is a carbide tipped blade. You might try spraying blade with Pam prior to cutting.

i have done this quite a bit lately and it doesnt seem to hurt anything. the big miter saws turn slower than smaller ones or so it seems and if you go slow and let the saw do the work i have not had any melting so far. i use an older blade that is due to be sharpened soon anyway and usualy have some sort of thinning agent that will clean it afterwards. I keep one blade for all kinds of experimental work! :rolf: use it for dirty wood or PT wood aluminum ect.... :roll: the worst part is the white saw dust! 8-O the flower beds hate it! :rolf:

fred p

 

[FIVEBYFIVE]

i used to do eletrical and i have cut pvc with nylon thread before. Kinda kool to see it work.