splitting logs

[daver828]

In reading Roy Underhill's book on "The Woodwright's Shop", and specifically about splitting a log into the parts necessary for making a shave horse, I'm a bit confused and would like some feedback please. What I think I read is that to get the seat, to split the log in half, and then to split three inches from the best side to use for the seat. He goes through how to wedge on both sides for it to "pop off" the three inch plank. My confusion comes in that I've been told not to use the center of a log, the pith, nor the outer part of the log as it is considered waste. What exactly is usable and what is not.

In other words, another question, if I had a cherry log, say two feet in diameter, how much of the log is usable?

Thanks

 

[froglips]

While I cannot specifically answer your question, a few folks around here have built such devices following the guidence of St. Roy's books.

The sapwood in cherry is ususally considered scrap, as its light and won't age and color like heartwood.

Depending on the look you want, sapwood in a shaving horse could be just fine.

On the pith, image making a 2"x2" post out of the pith. Its very likely to twist and warp. Again, for your purpose, I don't think it would hurt to use the pith.

But don't use the cherries! Eat them!

Jim

 

[daver828]

Sorry, had a blonde moment. I wasn't planning to use cherry for a shave horse. Was planning to use the cherry on another project. Just used that as an example. Sorry I was not clear. Was speaking more generally. I think Roy suggests red or white oak for this project, which I also have access to.

 

[DaveO]

Split the log off-center from the pith. Most logs won't have the pith centered anyway. The greatest chance of wood defect originate from the pith out. You only need to be an inch or so off of the pith to remove it, even less when you will be doing more dimensioning that will remove more of it. When I cut logs for bowl turning, I cut down the center, knowing that I will be cutting a large amount of the cut face away to true it up.

Dave

 

[froglips]

Thats funny, I didn't even think twice. :gar-La; Man wants to use cherry, he's gonna use cherry.

At least now I won't ask you how that Cherry Shaving Horse turned out

Jim

Sorry, had a blonde moment. I wasn't planning to use cherry for a shave horse. Was planning to use the cherry on another project. Just used that as an example. Sorry I was not clear. Was speaking more generally. I think Roy suggests red or white oak for this project, which I also have access to.

 

[nelsone]

How wide does the board need to be? If your log is large enough you may be able to get the seat out of one side, depending on how it needs to be oriented.

 

[Mike Davis]

I had a small white oak log from my place for a few years and finally took it to be sawed for a shave horse. That was a couple years ago. After all that time the wood was still not dry. This winter I kept it in the shop and now the side with the pith is all checked and split.

I may try to plane it but I'm inclined to start over, besides that will give me another 5 years to perfect my design. :rotflm:

Stay away from the pith, even on a 3 inch slab it will cause problems. White oak takes a long time to dry but it will last longer out in the weather. Maybe in ten years or so I will have the shave horse I desire. :dontknow: