Scrub planes

[mshel]

I have an itch and before I scratch it, I would like some feedback.

1. What are your thoughts on using a scrub plane?
2. If you were to get one, which one would you get
3. Is a scrub plane really feasible?
4. Alternatives (aside from the normal power tools)

I think I could use one of these but without trying one out, I don't really know if I really would benefit from owning one or would just add another paper weight. My initial thoughts would be to use one to rough out some wicked wood prior to using the jointer or planer. I can use the jointer to flatten one side even though it might be warped or twisted, so what would be the benefit? See, I haven't convinced myself so help me out.

Mike

 

[D L Ames]

1. What are your thoughts on using a scrub plane? I used a scrub plane during the class that Bill Anderson taught and found it very enjoyable to use.

2. If you were to get one, which one would you get I looked for a used #40 during the last MWTCA meeting but I don't think I found one for under $90. You can get a new Lie-Nielson scrub plane for $145

3. Is a scrub plane really feasible? It works very well when you want to true up a piece of stock that you don't want to use power tools on.

4. Alternatives (aside from the normal power tools) An alternative would be g get something like an extra #4, widen the throat a bit and then reshape the blade to add a radius to the bevel.

D L

 

[michaelgarner]

mike,
I have wanted one too for a while. If you get one and you decide you dont like it I will buy it from you after I pay off monty! :icon_thum
Seriously though I would like to see what info comes up from this. Stay blessed mike.

 

[michaelgarner]

1. What are your thoughts on using a scrub plane? I used a scrub plane during the class that Bill Anderson taught and found it very enjoyable to use.

2. If you were to get one, which one would you get I looked for a used #40 during the last MWTCA meeting but I don't think I found one for under $90. You can get a new Lie-Nielson scrub plane for $145

3. Is a scrub plane really feasible? It works very well when you want to true up a piece of stock that you don't want to use power tools on.

4. Alternatives (aside from the normal power tools) An alternative would be g get something like an extra #4, widen the throat a bit and then reshape the blade to add a radius to the bevel.

D L

DL,
Great info friend. I am definitely going to take that class when I get back. I am getting the bug to get back in the shop but have no shop,,lol. Be blessed friend.

 

[Monty]

If you're not convinced, you could start by just picking up an extra No 5 (these are common and cheap). Shape a slight curved edge on the blade and you can get it to work (somewhat) like a scrub plane. Of course, it's not the same but this will let suffice until you get a scrub. I thought about scrubs too, but I really have not felt the need to have one yet. If you're really into surfacing your wood entirely by hand then you need one.

 

[Jonz]

Don't get me wrong, I don't need much excuse to buy another plane, but like Monty I have yet to find a need for a scrub. Stanley #40's are going up in price too, so that pretty much seals it for me.

I stick to the jointer and planer for now.

 

[Larry Rose]

I use an old Stanley #5 with a heavily radiused iron, but I can't remember what the radius is. It works great even though it doesn't get a lot of use. I modified it to clean up some old chestnut barn boards that were so dirty I didn't want to put them on my jointer or in my planer without cleaning them up first. This is basicly all I use it for. Although it is handy at times, I don't think I would pay for a new L-N (I can't believe I just said that). If you've got and old 4 or 5 or even a spare iron, try it. I think you'll be suprised.

 

[Grgramps]

Mike, I can appreciate your interest in scrub planes as I too have been considering one. After 8 years of woodworking I finally bought a jointer, so you can understand that I could have used one. One point that I have seen repeated is that with a scrub, the quality of the plane is less important than with other planes. It is used for rough work with less emphasis on accuracy. With that in mind, I suppose you might settle for something less expensive than some of the jewels that are in the marketplace. (Nevertheless, Lie Nielsen's are beautiful.)
Roy

 

[woodguy1975]

Get the LV scrub for $99. Don't bother wasting money on the more expensive blade. I sharpen my blade on the grinder only. There is no need for a finer edge on it. The scrub is a roughing tool which has no replacement if you are starting with rough stock. I have a Stanley I bought a couple years ago for $40 when prices weren't so high. There is no better way to level stock than a scrub and it is a lot of fun to use as DL says.

You can also make your own scrub plane. It is the same as a Krenov plane just use a radiused blade and open the mouth wide open. That is all there is to it. Scrubs are very simple. If there are a few folks interested in scrub planes I might be talked into making them for you guys or offer you a class so you can come over and learn to make one. I really enjoy making planes so either way is fine by me and it will save you some $$$.

Thank,

John

 

[DavidF]

Personally no scrub plane. I have used my #4 with a wider throat and it works fine, just a bit slower than a true scrub. It would probably be the last plane on my "need" list or at least close to it.

 

[michaelgarner]

I will have to stroll ebay and pick up another #5, an details on the radius of the blade and the width on the throat? Thanks for the info guys. I think it would be a good way to start, without putting a lot of money in the tool to see if I will use it or not. be blessed friends.

 

[DavidF]

I will have to stroll ebay and pick up another #5, an details on the radius of the blade and the width on the throat? Thanks for the info guys. I think it would be a good way to start, without putting a lot of money in the tool to see if I will use it or not. be blessed friends.

The radius is shallow, maybe 0.5mm total from peek of the curve - personal preference really. The throat gap depends on the depth of cut you want to take really - just go by "the seat of the pants" and you'll be fine. If the throat clogs its not big enough. Don't forget to set the chip breaker back a bit more than normal to allow for the heavier cut.

 

[michaelgarner]

The radius is shallow, maybe 0.5mm total from peek of the curve - personal preference really. The throat gap depends on the depth of cut you want to take really - just go by "the seat of the pants" and you'll be fine. If the throat clogs its not big enough. Don't forget to set the chip breaker back a bit more than normal to allow for the heavier cut.

Thanks dave, I am going to save this info and put it in my shop journal. The more I do woodworking the more I like hand tools, I know that they aren't a replacement for power tools. But sometimes its just fun to use them. be blessed friend.

 

[sapwood]

Mike,
Guess you missed Roy Underhill's show last Sat. He split a log with an adze (sp?) then used a hatchet and wooden scrub plane to flatten it. First time, I've seen the show and I was in awe 8-O He used a scrub plane across the width of the 3" thick piece, not the length He was stroking off huge chips, not thin shavings. Of course, his forearms are larger than my chest :lol:

And yes, it had a large mouth with radius on blade.

I got a good price on a No. 5 at the last MWCTA meet with the intention of refurbing it as a scrub. So far intentions haven't yielded results :-?

Roger

 

[michaelgarner]

im scoping ebay out as we speak,,a future #5 scrub plane

 

[mshel]

Roger,
I saw that episode too. It looked like a Stanley #40 he was using. Had I not cut my teeth so to speak on power tools, I think I could easily be a convert Neanderthal. (blasphemy) I know. :lol: :lol: Seriously, though I like the modern ways of doing things, I would have loved to have had a chance to work with a master furniture maker back in the day. Course I wouldn't be typing this in iffin I had. :eusa_danc I like incorporating hand tools into my repertoire and find that I really do use them. Not every day but enough to make them a good investment.

Mike

 

[fsdogwood]

I have a Stanley #40, used it several times, felt
that I cannot keep the blade in place (it retreats),
not sure if it's my fault. Yes, it's now pricy, and
you can get either the LN one or the LV one for
better. Even bought a blade and the holder from
Rarebear at woodnet.

The radius of the blade, AFAIK, is 5".

I have converted a wooden plane with 1-3/4"
blade (picture might be available in the gallery),
it's ugly! However, I found it more useful than
the Stanley #40. I feel that I want a #40, but
actually I can do with this ugly one.

It's useful for flatting/squaring lumber, also
useful if you want to get, say, 1/4" off the edge,
it'll be very fast with the scrub.

Besides the suggested old #4, #5, see if you can
find a beaten wooden smooth/jack. Preferably
the European style, with a handle at the front
(like the ECE/Primus), could be more satisfying.

Hope this helps.

Pinwu

 

[michaelgarner]

good info friend.

 

[Travis Porter]

I got a wild itch a year or so ago and bought the Lie Nielsen scrub plane from Woodcraft. It will hog off some wood, but you have to have a sturdy bench to use it IMO. I have used it maybe two or three times for boards that are wider than my jointer can flatten.

If you want to borrow/try it for awhile, you are welcome to do so.