Ripping 2 inch hard Maple

[Jon]

I need a new blade. I need a good rip blade so I wanted to ask for ripping what would you get? I had thought about a 30 tooth Forrest woodworker II. But I just dont know enough about ripping thick stuff. so whats best ?

 

[PeteM]

But I just dont know enough about ripping thick stuff. so whats best ?

IMO it's easier and safer to rip on the bandsaw.

pete

 

[Jon]

IMO it's easier and safer to rip on the bandsaw.

pete

Great, bring me your bandsaw and I will use it.

 

[toolferone]

The most common ripping blade has 24 teeth and is a FTG (flat top grind) I have a Delta 18 tooth that I really love. It is a full 1/8" kerf. I use it all the time for ripping and cutting my spline slots on the boxes I build, and ripping 3" maple too.

 

[dino drosas]

I have both a 28 tooth and a 15 tooth rip blade that I use. when I was working with old growth heart pine, the 15 tooth blade ripped through 3 1/2 material like it was butter. Seemed like I couldn't push it through the saw fast enough. Haven't used the 28 tooth as much but it also does a great job. If I only have a few cuts to make, I find myself going to the bandsaw; if the carbide blade is installed - just as fast, safer and no special set-up.

 

[Bas]

I've only done this woodworking thing for six months, but I must have read two dozen threads on "which is the best blade for xxx". The Forrest WW gets high marks, as do the Freud, Ridge Carbide, DeWalt, Leitz etc. blades. I think a good blade is one that costs $40 or more. Other than that, it's dealer's choice. It probably also depends on how much power your saw has. If it's a 5HP beast, you can probably rip 8/4 maple with a rusty file.

I'm partial to the Freud blades, especially their thin kerf blades. They're also a little cheaper than the Forrest. It will take a lifetime for me to wear down all that carbide.

Lowes has some blades on sale right now, with all sorts of coupons and discounts. You can probably score two if not three blades for the price of one Forest WW.

 

[McRabbet]

I keep my 40 tooth Forrest Woodworker II full kerf blade mounted most of the time on my 10" cabinet saw and have used it for lots of ripping as well as crosscuts. When ripping thick stock, you need to be careful to avoid wood that may close the kerf and cause the blade to bind -- a splitter is a good safety device, as are Board Buddies (those yellow anti-kickback rollers). I have ripped 8/4 oak and hard maple and recently made a long bevel cut that was nearly 3" of cut. Mine has a 5" stabilizer plate on it and I recommend it highly, despite the initial high cost (I paid $94 for mine in 2004). HTH -- YMMV

 

[Nativespec]

If you want smooth results, a glue line rip may be better. If you want a quick tear, less teeth help. I have a 40 tooth Systematic glue line rip that stays on my contractor's saw and does a fine job. If you are into the hype, buy the Forest.

David

 

[JimmyC]

I, like Tom, have the Delta 18 tooth rip blade and for ripping ( even8/4 maple) it has worked out greay for me.

Jimmy

 

[DaveO]

I have great results with Freuds Glue Line Rip blade. It does what it says it will. I use it when I know I am going to do a lot of ripping, otherwise my WWII does everything else.
Dave

 

[nelsone]

I hope you have a TS with the horses to handle that. My little Delta would absolutely choke! I understand you don't have a bandsaw, but I'd see if you can find someone that has one. Don't get me wrong, if your table saw will handle it then go for it. The Freud Glue Line Rip has received many accolades.

 

[Travis Porter]

I keep my 40 tooth Forrest Woodworker II full kerf blade mounted most of the time on my 10" cabinet saw and have used it for lots of ripping as well as crosscuts. When ripping thick stock, you need to be careful to avoid wood that may close the kerf and cause the blade to bind -- a splitter is a good safety device, as are Board Buddies (those yellow anti-kickback rollers). I have ripped 8/4 oak and hard maple and recently made a long bevel cut that was nearly 3" of cut. Mine has a 5" stabilizer plate on it and I recommend it highly, despite the initial high cost (I paid $94 for mine in 2004). HTH -- YMMV

I'm in the same camp as Rob, Forrest Woodworker II full kerf. I used to use thin kerf blades, but once I put a splitter on my PM66 they would no longer work. A good quality blade regardless of brand that is properly sharpened makes a world of difference.

Still, I will probably get a true rip blade in the near future. Would make it easier when I have a lot of material to rip.

 

[Jon]

I ended up getting a WW 24 tooth and it did great.