Resawing Maple on a 14" Delta Bandsaw Advice Needed

[charlessenf]

I saw a fella make a parts storage cabinet from a single 2"x6" (8') piece of construction lumber. He used a Table Saw to cut 1/2" slabs by raising the blade as high as he could and taking two passes, flipping it 180 in between. I've done it that way, of course - but now that I have a bandsaw of my very own . . .

Now, construction lumber's fine for shop parts drawers holding nuts and bolts or nails and brads and staples. but I have some chunks of three inch thick (what I believe to be) Maple scored from the scrap pile the Blue Ridge Cabinet shop displays along the road to Morgantown from time to time.

Now, I assume it's Maple - but I don't really know what these light colored chunks of hard to saw material actually are. I do know they are hard to cut with my Miter Saw(s) (10" Ryobi and a 12" DeWalt) as well as with my 10" Craftsman TS. Lots of burning evident on the cut faces as well as noticeable resistance, maybe a little smoke and bogging down of the saw(s).

So, I went to the band saw this afternoon and mounted a 1/2" 3-4 TPI blade purchased at Klingspor some years back - a name brand they still carry. I recall it had instructions indicating one didn't need to up the tension as much as on 'other similar blades,' or words to that effect. I had high hopes which were dashed within seconds of my attempting to saw off a 1/4" slice along the 4+/-" height. So, I turned it and tried doing the same along the shorter 2" side.

Now, there are many things that a BS Novice might well be doing wrong and I may well be doing several of them at once. However, I have used this blade recently on a several different types of wood (though not for resawing per se), before changing it out for a 1/4" 6tpi blade to rough cut some fence pickets out of whatever LOWES uses to make the six-foot(6) x 5/8" rough cut pressure treated (what used to be) $1.50 fence pickets. And that went well.

So, my first question is "Is it really hard to cut (hard?) Maple?" And then, "Is there a 'special' or recommended blade for cutting (hard) Maple?"

Is this (stock) Delta just under powered for resawing?

Am I not asking the right questions?

Anyone?

 

[bob vaughan]

Look at the tooth configuration of the blade. Is it a crosscut pattern (like most hand saws) or a rip pattern (ripping hand saw) There's a big difference. Infinity has blades specifically made for ripping. If you try crosscutting with those blades, the cut will be awful.

This is a crosscut blade and not very good at ripping. When cutting a circle, you'll be crosscutting and ripping at various places around the circle. When going around, you'll feel more resistance when cutting with the grain.

 

[zdorsch]

Thanks for mentioning about blade teeth angles.

I think I have a Timberwolf on my delta 14” and it has the alternating teeth. I think the other popular bs blade, the woodslicer, does as well.

 

[Keye]

When buying a BS blade how do you know which type it is? I do not remember every seeing anything in the description of a blade which indicates what type it is.

 

[creasman]

My preference for resawing is the Laguna Resaw King blade. I've used a 3/4" on my 14" Delta bandsaw and currently have a 1-1/4" on my 18" Laguna bandsaw. These give excellent results, but there are factors to keep in mind. I didn't see what problems you were having. Common issues are drift and "bowing" as the blade slices through (i.e., leaving a board that is thicker/thinner in the middle than the edges).

The first is tracking. If you plan to use a fence you will need to first align the fence with the track the blade makes. It's best if the gullet of the blade is running in the middle of the tires, but that isn't always possible with wider blades. Draw a line on a board parallel to the edge that would be against the fence and freehand this cut until you get to the middle. Hold the board in place so it doesn't move, cut off the saw, and then adjust the fence so it is parallel to the board. This aligns your fence with the natural drift your saw setup is doing.

A dull blade will always be a problem. If you've nicked a nail on one side that can cause the blade to want to cut towards the sharper side and make it bow the cut. Assuming the blade is sharp bowing can also happen if you're pushing to fast. Resawing is a task where "slow and steady" wins the race.

Use a feather board. It's difficult to keep the board pressed against the fence while you also push it forward, particularly with longer rips. The feather board gives you a third hand. I really like and recommend this one.

Last thing to mention is technique. I rip a lot of veneer -- 1/16" thick. I find it works best to get one face absolutely flat and straight -- no warps, bows or twists. Square both edges to this face on the jointer. After ripping once, flip the board end-to-end for the next rip. Once you've ripped a couple of pieces check the face for flatness before doing the next couple of cuts. This keeps you running true.

Not all woods rip the same. Maple is hard compared to pine or poplar. Expect to go slower and give the blade time to cut w/o overheating. You can also use your tablesaw to create a kerf down both edges to decrease the thickness the bandsaw has to cut.

Hope you find some help in this.

 

[Pointfiveone.5]

Eric Curtis has a great contribution to solve the problems that arise in blade tracking - he mentions the idea is not his own, but he presents its application and functionality very well here -

 

[mdbuntyn]

I also have a 14" Delta (¾hp, made in China). Yes, the saw is underpowered, but it should be able to make your 3" cuts.

I did a resaw test with a 6" x 13" piece of hard maple using a ½" Wood Slicer from Highland Woodworking (similar specs to your blade). I had to go a lot slower than I would have liked in order to prevent it from bogging down, but it handled the cut well.

 

[charlessenf]

½" Wood Slicer from Highland Woodworking I had to go a lot slower but it handled the cut well.

All the videos I see speed up the process. Highland's video 4X !! So, it's difficult to know if my saw's slower than theirs. And they didn't try Maple!

The chart I have (Timber Wolf® Silicon Steel and Specialty Wood Cutting Blade List) lists a 3PC (Positive Claw - whatever that means) Raker Set (what's that mean?) with a 6.5 degree tooth angle. I didn't notice comparable specs on the Highland site, but the fella demonstrating the Woodslicer blades said the blade was a variable tooth blade with sections of 2TPI mixed in with 3TPI to minimize vibrations and noise.

However, as Keye said "I don't recall seeing Ripping or Crosscutting indications on any of the BS blades I've looked at in the store or online and the chart I have (above) only has a category for "Blades for Ripping & Crosscutting" as opposed to two separate categories.

Does the group every do anything at Klingspor so I might bring in my blades and wood and get straightened out?


I mounted a Link Belt on my Delta years ago and did the same on my cheap HFT Lathe and Craftsman 10" TS to minimize the vibrations and can testify favorably of the approach.

Since the blade I have is relatively new - I don't use the band saw much - and it was from Klingspor, I'm hesitant to invest another $60 bucks in a similar blade (even if it comes wrapped on orange paper) to see if it will cut any faster than the one I've got. Could be I'm simply too impatient and no blade will satisfy me. The 3/4" Laguna comes in at about $150 with shipping and nothing I'm doing is worth that sort of investment.

I keep seeing 'attachments' for this saw (ceramic guides, friction less guides, guide wheels, CARTER GUIDES, Yellow Tension Springs, etc etc etc) and videos advising one adjust this, or that or replace the other. Since I purchased this saw used, I've no idea if it had been set right or abused. I did replace the upper tire with an orange one.

When installing this half-inch blade, I noticed that the tension indicator was way higher than the indication for a One Inch Blade. Can't be certain, but pretty sure I was cutting OK with the 1/4" 6TPI blade with that tension setting!

Like my grandpa said, 'tis a poor workman what blames his tool!

 

[zdorsch]

All the videos I see speed up the process. Highland's video 4X !! So, it's difficult to know if my saw's slower than theirs. And they didn't try Maple!
View attachment 231032
The chart I have (Timber Wolf® Silicon Steel and Specialty Wood Cutting Blade List) lists a 3PC (Positive Claw - whatever that means) Raker Set (what's that mean?) with a 6.5 degree tooth angle. I didn't notice comparable specs on the Highland site, but the fella demonstrating the Woodslicer blades said the blade was a variable tooth blade with sections of 2TPI mixed in with 3TPI to minimize vibrations and noise.

However, as Keye said "I don't recall seeing Ripping or Crosscutting indications on any of the BS blades I've looked at in the store or online and the chart I have (above) only has a category for "Blades for Ripping & Crosscutting" as opposed to two separate categories.

Does the group every do anything at Klingspor so I might bring in my blades and wood and get straightened out?


I mounted a Link Belt on my Delta years ago and did the same on my cheap HFT Lathe and Craftsman 10" TS to minimize the vibrations and can testify favorably of the approach.

Since the blade I have is relatively new - I don't use the band saw much - and it was from Klingspor, I'm hesitant to invest another $60 bucks in a similar blade (even if it comes wrapped on orange paper) to see if it will cut any faster than the one I've got. Could be I'm simply too impatient and no blade will satisfy me. The 3/4" Laguna comes in at about $150 with shipping and nothing I'm doing is worth that sort of investment.

I keep seeing 'attachments' for this saw (ceramic guides, friction less guides, guide wheels, CARTER GUIDES, Yellow Tension Springs, etc etc etc) and videos advising one adjust this, or that or replace the other. Since I purchased this saw used, I've no idea if it had been set right or abused. I did replace the upper tire with an orange one.

When installing this half-inch blade, I noticed that the tension indicator was way higher than the indication for a One Inch Blade. Can't be certain, but pretty sure I was cutting OK with the 1/4" 6TPI blade with that tension setting!

Like my grandpa said, 'tis a poor workman what blames his tool!

Raker means the teeth alternate, more for cross cutting based on Bob’s post. I have a feeling the nicer blades will distinguish between rip and cross cut similar to table saw blades (to be honest I wasn’t aware there were different BS blades before today).

This should help with blade information:

https://www.usabandsawblades.com/content/techguide_full.pdf

$66 is steep for a 93.5” BS blade. The infinity was less than that.

General consensus is to leave the factory guides and blocks. Check out the Alex snodgrass video on adjusting the band saw. I found my upper wheel needed tilted to make the blade run in the right place. I resawed a piece of pine after and it was much straighter than before.

I’ve found most people recommend against a 3/4” blade on the 14” delt due to tension. The guage on mine did not match before or after replacing the tension spring. I now have the yellow one and still rely on the deflection per Snodgrass.

 

[charlessenf]

Look at the tooth configuration of the blade. Is it a crosscut pattern (like most hand saws) or a rip pattern (ripping hand saw) There's a big difference. Infinity has blades specifically made for ripping. If you try crosscutting with those blades, the cut will be awful.

View attachment 231031
This is a crosscut blade

OK, if you say so. But How can one distinguish it from a Ripping Blade?

 

[bob vaughan]

Hopefully some of the resaw guys will post a clear photo of the teeth of their favorite band saw ripping blade. I don't have to photograph at the moment.

 

[Keye]

Did you know a BS table needs to be adjusted perpendicular to the blade not only left to right but also front to back. I also have a 14" Delta BS and it is a real PITA to do this My BS is so old it was made in the USA and is 1 HP. I did not know this until I obtained an Iturra Design catalogue. I learned there is a lot more to tuning a BS than I knew. Yes you can adjust for drift but after all I learned from Mr. Iturra I do not have a problem with drift. I change blades frequently and never have to adjust for drift. I am able to cut a 6" thick piece of cherry with a 1/4" 10tpi blade without a problem. Of course the blade has to be sharp. As I have said before the Iturra catalogue is also a text book.

 

[awldune]

You can also use your tablesaw to create a kerf down both edges to decrease the thickness the bandsaw has to cut.

I have the best success with this. It also gives you a straight line to follow that is easy to see and won't get covered with sawdust as you go.

 

[Ricksmi]

I have a Rikon 14" and only use Timber Wolf Silicon steel blades and re-saw often with the 1/2" and 3/4", depends solely on whether I want to change the blade or not and have had zero issues re-sawing hard maple, white oak, etc. etc. and to tell the truth have never looked to see if my blade is cross cut or rip, just looked on a new blade box and aside from length/tooth count that's it.
The only wood I do have issues with and tends to dull the blade is when I'm re-sawing Teak, makes great furniture but hard on blades.
With the 3/4 power motor I have to feed a bit slower than others with larger BS's but that has never been an issue. I tend to cut my own veneers and re-saw for box tops, door fronts, table tops, etc. often.
Having your saw properly tension and tuned up is key not only for re-sawing but cutting in general to prevent drift and such and my guide blocks are what Rikon put in and after 10 years it still cuts as well as it did when new. I use my BS more than any other saw on almost a daily basis.

 

[charlessenf]

This should help with blade information:

https://www.usabandsawblades.com/content/techguide_full.pdf

Thanks for the link. However, I do believe that it is focused on metal cutting - not wood working.

As do have a Metal Cutting Bandsaw, it's a useful addition to my reference 'library!'

I will Check out the Alex snodgrass video!

Mastering Bandsaw Tuning: Expert Tips from Alex Snodgrass ...​

 

[JimD]

I'm no resawing expert but I can do it. My 14 inch bandsaw is a Jet steel framed saw with 13 or 14 inches of resaw capacity (can't remember which). I find I get better results from a 3/4 inch blade. I think the blade I am using has three teeth per inch. I think something coarse like this is normally recommended for resawing. I don't know that all 14 inch saws can properly tension a 3/4 inch or wider blade. I would use a narrower blade if I could not get enough tension on a 3/4. My saw has a big 120V motor so it doesn't have unlimited power but I have resawn at least 6 inch hardwood, probably a bit more. I do not know if I've done hard maple but I'm sure I've done cherry and oak. Hard maple burns easily but so does cherry. Hard maple is not harder than oak but I don't know which is harder to cut. I don't think the type of guides makes a lot of difference. I am using the ones that came with the saw. If the guides are properly adjusted they should not touch the blade much if at all.

 

[ErinJ]

The tooth configuration needs to be changed. There are things that needs to be considered before you can actually get a decent cut. Rule of thumb: thin = fine TPI, thick = coarse TPI. Check out sawblade.com. I get my blades off of them. They can pretty much direct you to which blade and TPI works on the cut.