Radial Arm Blues

[ErnieM]

Hi all,

I have a Sears 10" Radial Arm Saw that's driving me nuts. It refuses to make a straight cut all the way through the board. It's hard to explain but maybe this illustration will make the problem clearer.

If you notice the cut at the right end of this simulated board (somewhat exaggerated) the cut splays outward as it approaches the bottom of the board. I've tried 3 or 4 different blades but the problem remains. This, coupled with problem of getting the blade back to a true 90 degrees after a miter cut, is making me think seriously about a sliding compound miter saw. But before I give up on it I thought I ask for opinions as to a possible cause for this problem. Any ideas?

Ernie

 

[P Crews]

If you clamp the stock to the table so there is no chance of it moving do you still get a splayed cut?

As far a squaring everything up, I use 10" square piece of MDF with a 5/8" hole in the middle. Replace the blade with the piece of MDF and I use it to square the blade to the table and to the fence. I also use the MDF to make sure the table is the parallel with the travel of the blade. Using the MDF makes it easier for me to see everything and the teeth of the blade don't get in the way.

Paul

 

[Gotcha6]

The column jibs could be loose causing the arm to wobble or not seat in the right angle detent properly. You could also have a warped saw carriage guide rod set. Does it do it in the same place on any given crosscut, or in a random manner on different width lumber? If in the same place, look at the carriage rod, if random look for a loose column jib which could cause you to inadverdently pull the saw to one side resulting in the offline cut.
Also look for play in the carriage support bearings that ride on the carriage guided rods.

 

[junquecol]

From your owner's manual, look up "heeling." Looks like the blade isn't parallel to the travel of the carriage. As for miter cuts, why not build a sled that makes miter, while saw stays at 90.

 

[Travis Porter]

This is all my opinion, and you are getting what you paid for so take it with a grain of salt.

Unless you have a high quality saw, moving it to cut something other than a 90 and then getting it back square cutting is going to be problematic. I had an older Black and Decker saw a long time ago, and any time I move it off 90 degrees and returned it I had to go through the realignment process. I believe it was because the stop mechanism was not as secure as it could/should have been.

As for your run out cuts, I agree with Bruce, the saw is heeling. I would check that the table is square to the blade at multiple points on the right and left side.

 

[Partman]

Radial arm saws are hard to get into adjustment. :roll: But when you do they are great to work with. :icon_thum

Danny

 

[ErnieM]

Thanks to all who chipped in with solutions for my RAS problem. The saw is working beautifully now. Here's the story: Bruce & Travis hit it on the head - the blade was heeling. While I was at it I checked the other alignments. The blade wasn't aligned to the table and it wasn't square to the fence. Danny, you're right. Now that everything is aligned it's a pleasure to use. Next time I think of replacing the saw I should think about replacing the operator instead.

Thanks again for all your suggestions. :eusa_clap :eusa_clap
Ernie