As I have mentioned to some of you I have been working on this prototype collapsible SCMS dust hood for some time. I wanted something that was low cost, covered the rear of the saw in any orientation, and collapsed. I used some left over ½” ply and some 1” ply, some old piano hinges, one window blind from Lowes, a PVC toilet connection flange, 16 grommets and a grommet tool.
I made the base support from the ½ ply and sized it based on the extreme left and right-most positions of the SCMS. I had intended to make the side ¼ circles but this did not leave enough room for the saw when it was in the rear-most position. So the tops of the sides are angled backwards. I drilled holes in the top of each side and inserted dowels. The sides are attached to the base with piano hinges.
The blind is attached to a support connected to the rear of the base with the round pin end of the blind fitting into a hole in one side and the opposing flange in s chiseled groove. A 4” hole was made in the middle of the back and the toilet flange was attached below this hole. A second smaller hole was made in the bottom for the power cord.
I made holes on each side of the blind and attached 3/8” grommets with a grommet tool.
The sides pivot up and the blind is then pulled up and onto the sides so that the dowels extend through the grommet holes. I had almost all materials on hand and only had to buy the toilet flange, blind grommets and grommet tool. Total cost was about $35.
I plan to submit this to a magazine as a tip. Let me know what you think.
Doug
I made the base support from the ½ ply and sized it based on the extreme left and right-most positions of the SCMS. I had intended to make the side ¼ circles but this did not leave enough room for the saw when it was in the rear-most position. So the tops of the sides are angled backwards. I drilled holes in the top of each side and inserted dowels. The sides are attached to the base with piano hinges.
The blind is attached to a support connected to the rear of the base with the round pin end of the blind fitting into a hole in one side and the opposing flange in s chiseled groove. A 4” hole was made in the middle of the back and the toilet flange was attached below this hole. A second smaller hole was made in the bottom for the power cord.
I made holes on each side of the blind and attached 3/8” grommets with a grommet tool.
The sides pivot up and the blind is then pulled up and onto the sides so that the dowels extend through the grommet holes. I had almost all materials on hand and only had to buy the toilet flange, blind grommets and grommet tool. Total cost was about $35.
I plan to submit this to a magazine as a tip. Let me know what you think.
Doug