Problem with Lacquer

[CyntO]

I have applied three coats of lacquer to some wood and lightly sanded between coats. I am using Miniwax Clear Brushing Lacquer. However, it keeps getting very rough spots across the board. What should I do to prevent this? Thank you for any suggestions. CyntO

 

[Oka]

Post pixs would help. As a general rule, sealing the wood 1st with either a lacquer based sealer , shellac or equal, will stabilize the surface. Then go ahead and apply the finish. Sometimes the cause is either pith or sap wood that is more porous.

You could try sanding with 220, then 320, then seal it, then add the lacquer.... maybe someone else will chime in with some suggestions.

 

[fairweather woodworking]

I have applied three coats of lacquer to some wood and lightly sanded between coats. I am using Miniwax Clear Brushing Lacquer. However, it keeps getting very rough spots across the board. What should I do to prevent this? Thank you for any suggestions. CyntO

Brushing lacquer is not a good way to apply the product. After 40 years of spraying the stuff, I've never brushed on lacquer. Buy yourself an inexpensive HVLP spray gun and have some fun learning how fast to move down the wood to coat it. Keep the gun at the same angle to the wood and cross step down the you project at the same distance from the wood. Use a 30-50percent overlap and you will be surprised how little a learning curve there is.
Good luck and have fun. .

 

[MarkDarby]

I have an HPLV -- that I rarely use. For the work that I do, I usually turn to Mohawk pre-cat lacquer. I do usually seal with Zinsser shellac before spraying the lacquer. Its more expensive -- but less time to clean up. My time in my shop is very limited -- so I am willing to pay a little more for more time.

 

[chris_goris]

What type of wood? did you apply yesterday? Lacquer hates humidity.

 

[fairweather woodworking]

I have an HPLV -- that I rarely use. For the work that I do, I usually turn to Mohawk pre-cat lacquer. I do usually seal with Zinsser shellac before spraying the lacquer. Its more expensive -- but less time to clean up. My time in my shop is very limited -- so I am willing to pay a little more for more time.

Mark, what I have found over the years is a good quality old school Nitro lacquer is better in the long run. You can go back and touch up scratches a lot easier than the pre cat lacquer. Although pre cat is a "harder" finish than nitro lacquer.

 

[MarkDarby]

Mark, what I have found over the years is a good quality old school Nitro lacquer is better in the long run. You can go back and touch up scratches a lot easier than the pre cat lacquer. Although pre cat is a "harder" finish than nitro lacquer.

I will have to give it a try. Not used it before. Thanks!

 

[joec]

As a hobbyist, I had a HPLV system that I used for Lacquer. As I used it seldom, I sold it, and converted to the rattle can Lacquers. I see no difference and love the ease of set up (which is none) and the quality is the same.