Pre Gloat - Earlex 5000

[dancam]

OK...After much hesitation I finally jumped into the HVLP - Spray world. I've been brushing and ragging finishes for 30 years and felt it was time to go spray (limited budget called for limited measures).

After hearing a number of good reviews on the Earlex 5000 Spray system I ordered one from WoodCraft (free shipping and no tax) and I am anxiously awaiting delivery.

I plan on spraying waterborne finishes but need some advice. What is the best waterborne finish to spray (home work shop---no spray booth)?

Any and ALL advice is appreciated.

Dan C.

PS....I'll post pics when the Earlex arrives.

 

[WoodWrangler]

It's a nice setup for the price from what I hear. Can't wait to hear your opinions on it. I know the Wood Whisperer had a review of it in one of his episodes and gave it a good grade.

 

[Travis Porter]

Congrats on the new toyl!

I have become preferential to Target coatings USL (Ultima Spray Lacquer). It is a waterbased lacquer and results for me at least have been excellent. I had been buying their waterbased shellac but after talking to them will no longer do it and just thin the lacquer to use as a sealer coat.

You can get it from homesteadfinishing or www.targetcoatings.com

 

[jmauldin]

I agree with Travis about Target coatings. I have also used Minwax coatings with good results, although it is not my preference. And, Welcome to HVLP spraying. I think you will love it. One thing to keep in mind about water based coatings - you must clean the gun at the end of the day of spraying. Do NOT leave the finish in the gun overnight. Once the coating sets up it is a BEAR to clean out of the gun. That is not true with NC lacq's, which can be left for a longer period of time before causing problems. One final thing to remember, just as in applying water based stains, you need to wet the wood before applying to sand the raised grain, then spray (this is if you do not apply stain to the piece.)
Jim in Mayberry

 

[JimD]

I already said this on your posting in tools but I really like Resisthane from Hood finishing or Highland Hardware. About $30/gallon. It is a pre-cat lacquer that is water based. It dries hard enough to sand in an hour. It is also tough and like most water based finishes it is clear. I use the clear gloss and the gloss white. I've sprayed several gallons now and am very pleased with the results.

Jim

 

[Travis Porter]

I already said this on your posting in tools but I really like Resisthane from Hood finishing or Highland Hardware. About $30/gallon. It is a pre-cat lacquer that is water based. It dries hard enough to sand in an hour. It is also tough and like most water based finishes it is clear. I use the clear gloss and the gloss white. I've sprayed several gallons now and am very pleased with the results.

Jim

How do you like the tinted white lacquer? How does it compare to paint in quality of finish, thickness, and ulitmately, ease of application?

 

[JimD]

Travis,

I think tinted Resisthane is much more durable than any paint I have used. It does not cover very well, however, so you have to put it over a white primer. Hood offers a special primer but I have just used a latex primer because I had that already. If you put it over a white primer, it comes out looking very good. If you want even more durability, you can add a coat or two of clear Resisthane. The tinted is not as high a gloss and may not be quite as durable as the clear.

I sprayed our drawer for silver ware - the most used in the kitchen - and that is holding up well. I sprayed most of it on Plantation shutters. They are also holding up well. I'm on my second gallon, I think, it might be my third.

The other advantage of tinted Resisthane overy most paints is speed of drying. An hour per coat is pretty good.

Jim

 

[Travis Porter]

I am going to have to try the tinted lacquers especially after your comments. I have been doing toning with dyes recently for a couple of pieces and have been quite happy with the results I have achieved. How did you apply the primer? Wast it paint primer? If you sprayed it did you thin it?

Sorry to hijack your thread dancam! As for the gloat, no pics, didn't happen. ;-)

 

[JimD]

I brushed on the primer and sanded. My plantation shutters have mdf louvers (much cheaper than solid wood and a lot less work) so I put two coats of primer on them. I sand after both coats so you cannot see brush marks in the finish.

I finish the louvers and shutter frame before putting the louvers in the frame. I did not see how I could finish the louvers well in the frame. I hated the process so much, however, that I quit after 6 windows. Spraying one louver at a time is not much better than brushing one louver at a time. I may have to try one where I paint after assembly.

If you try the Hood primier, please post a comment on your results. I've been considering buying at least a quart to see how it works. I think it will be better than using latex.

Jim

 

[MrAudio815]

Nice Grab...Is there a code for the free shipping, not tax?


Matthew

 

[JimD]

I looked at the Earlex review video from "the woodwhisperer". I have used old fashioned high pressure guns but it was a long time ago. My only recent experience is with my Wagner HVLP conversion gun. The patterns from the Earlex 5000 in the video look about the same size as I can get with my Wagner using my small 1.5 hp Bostich compressor. I can only get less than 10psi to my gun once I drain the tank. With more compressor, I could throw a bigger pattern but I don't really need to. Finishing is pretty quick with the size pattern I get and I think it would be for the Earlex too.

The air setting is the touchiest setting on my Wagner. If I am a little off, I get a teeny tiny pattern or droplets instead of spray. I finally put little dots of white Resisthane on the gun for where I want that dial. The Earlex has no similar setting to make which seems desirable to me.

The Earlex 5000 has a volume of finish adjustment, like the Wagner. My Wagner also has a size of pattern and shape of pattern adjustment which the Earlex does not seem to have. It is occasionally handy to change the shape of the pattern (normally I run with a vertically oriented fan but a long skinny shape (leg of a table) would be better sprayed with a horizontally oriented pattern. If the Earlex does not have that adjustability it could be a small issue but not typically.

Overall, it seems like a viable option to me. I still like my Wagner but I am getting a bit more versatility at the expense of more complicated adjustments. I also do not like having air hose running the length of my shop. It could be easier to deal with the larger diameter but shorter hose of a fan unit. For cleaning, you could take the whole Earlex unit to the sink, for instance. I drag a bunch of hose (I should probably put in some hard lines in my shop).

Jim

 

[Bas]

I find the idea of a tinted lacquer intriguing. I never even knew such a thing existed! Spraying latex with an HVLP system should be very possible, but it's not a no-brainer like other finishes, so this would be a great alternative.

Regarding durability, how does the clear Resisthane compare to something like polyurethane in terms of durability/ protection? Can you spray water-based poly over tinted lacquer?

 

[JimD]

Bas,

Resisthane meets KCMA standard for use on kitchen cabinets. It is pretty tough. Poly that is rated to be used on floors may be tougher, however. Hood finishing also sells what they call Superpoly that is rated for floors and they say it exceeds KCMA standards. I have used Minwaxes water based poly and I'm pretty sure they indicated it was not recommended for floors so it is probably similar to Resisthane in toughness. It dries slower, however, so while it's ultimate durability may be similar, Resisthane is more immediately durable. Hood's regular poly is also not rated for use on floors.

I would put Resisthane over tinted Resisthane - it burns in like lacquer - but my general rule of thumb is you can put water based finishes over nearly any other finish that is throughly dry.

I also checked up-to-date pricing when I went to Hood's website just now, clear resisthane is 22.95/gallon or 10.25/quart. Tinted is 24.95/gallon or 11.95/quart and the primer is the same as the tinted. Superpoly was 49.95/gallon or 18.95/quart.

For furniture and cabinets, I think Resisthane is plenty durable enough. FWW tested water based finishes and rated Resisthane a best buy or something like that. It was not the absolute best but with price considered, they thought highly of it. The stuff they liked better was about twice as expensive.

Hood finishing is at www.hoodfinishing.com. I have always called them, their website does not seem to work for ordering. They have a lot of good information on their website, however.

Jim