First one.
Another view.
Bevel gauge for layout, Dozuki saw for cuts, 8mm and 1/2" chisel for cleanout.
I know, practice, practice, practice.
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Practice, practice, practice...
- Thread starter Jim Murphy
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First one.
Another view.
Bevel gauge for layout, Dozuki saw for cuts, 8mm and 1/2" chisel for cleanout.
I know, practice, practice, practice.
I'm impressed!!! The next set will be easier now that you have done some. I was real nervous on my first shot at them, because they were not practice, they were for real to be used. I find that the extra pressure to do it right forces me to try harder to learn it right the first time, but after it was all done I thought they were really simple with the right tools. :eusa_danc
Second generation dovetail. (Dovetails reproduce quickly, it's only hours between generations. Sorta like fruit flies)
Sorry bout the big images. I'm stupid and still struggling with how to link the thumbs. Monty fixed the first set, and I tried this time, but failed. Doggone, I decided to show you the "full Monty." Ha.
These have the half pins at the ends. I cheated on these and used the coping saw to hog out most of the the waste, and then chiseled to clean up.
Another view:
How do y'all saw down to the line and not beyond? The dozuki peels out a sliver of wood that obscures the line. I have to remove the saw, hit the wood with a piece of sandpaper, look close, and start over. Seems to me that a "depth stop" on the saw would be a helpful aid. Is that cheating?
Where's Mr. Underhill when you need him?
45 minutes from begin layout until best (I was gonna get) fit achieved. So that's three hours per drawer, not counting all the ripping and jointing and planing with Normie gear, not Roy toys. Then again, my time's worth very little these days, unless I'm enjoying myself. And by golly, I had a good time this afternoon.
Jim
Sorry bout the big images. I'm stupid and still struggling with how to link the thumbs. Monty fixed the first set, and I tried this time, but failed. Doggone, I decided to show you the "full Monty." Ha.
These have the half pins at the ends. I cheated on these and used the coping saw to hog out most of the the waste, and then chiseled to clean up.
Another view:
How do y'all saw down to the line and not beyond? The dozuki peels out a sliver of wood that obscures the line. I have to remove the saw, hit the wood with a piece of sandpaper, look close, and start over. Seems to me that a "depth stop" on the saw would be a helpful aid. Is that cheating?
Where's Mr. Underhill when you need him?
45 minutes from begin layout until best (I was gonna get) fit achieved. So that's three hours per drawer, not counting all the ripping and jointing and planing with Normie gear, not Roy toys. Then again, my time's worth very little these days, unless I'm enjoying myself. And by golly, I had a good time this afternoon.
Jim
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Looks like excellent progress to me. I have yet to tackle hand cut.
Can't offer a lot of advice 'cause I'm still a novice. However, I consider stop blocks in the same class as a vise, and a coping saw as a handtool like a chisel and dovetail saw, so I wouldn't consider using either "cheating". I would reckon those that would probably cut their dovetails with a router anyway.
Looks to me like you are getting the hang of it!
Go
Looks to me like you are getting the hang of it!
Go
I use a Western style saw (the Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw). I tried a Jap style saw and never really got used to the way you have to hold your arm to make that saw go. With the Western style saw, if you push the saw properly the teeth sort of blow the dust away from the cut line as you go. Any possible tearout will be on the other face of the board where it doesn't matter so much. My guess is you just need to keep practicing with your saw until you can get smooth cuts without so much tearout.
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