New commision (12/11- pic added)

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T

toolferone

I just the green light on an interesting commission. I will be building 2@ 4' x 8' bulletin boards for a friends church. I am using 5/4 red oak. The molding will be 4" wide have a large round over w/step on the outside, 2@ 5/8" flutes in the middle and a small 1/4" round over next to the board. The board will be 1/2" Homesote covered in a material they choose.

I have not decided if I need to put a divider strip down the middle to keep the board flat up against the wall. Any thoughts on that would be great.
 
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4yanks

New User
Willie
Re: New commision

Congratulations on the commission Tom. I am not familiar enough with Homesote to be able to say whether or not I think it would need bracing in the middle. If it is at all stiff I expect that the 4" oak frame screwed to the wall would be enough.
 

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
Re: New commision

Depends on your rail thickness, but would think, if the BB is 8' wide, by 4' high you will get some sagging. Solutions include adding a center stile or wire s connecting the top corners to the bottom rail.
 
T

toolferone

Re: New commision

Depends on your rail thickness, but would think, if the BB is 8' wide, by 4' high you will get some sagging. Solutions include adding a center stile or wire s connecting the top corners to the bottom rail.

The rails will be a full 1" thick and 4" wide. It will be screwed in to the wall so I am not worried about the frame. I am more worried about the bb itself pulling away from the wall in the middle. With a small rail in the middle then each panel is only 4' x 4', but won't look as grand.
 

Splinter

New User
Dolan Brown
Re: New commision

Congradulation on the commission Tom. Would a piece of 4x8 tempered hardboard glued to the back of the homasote stiffen it?
 
T

toolferone

Well I have started working on the frame. I started with 2 piece of 5/4 red oak 13' long and 13" wide. I crosscut into 4' and 8" pieces then ripped them in to 4" wide pieces. I planned them down to 1". I setup the router table and ran the 3 different profiles needed. I then ripped the dado on the tablesaw with 2 cuts. With the router table set up with 2 feather boards, it was easy to feed those long pieces through.

So some fun math. I have 156 linear feet of wood run a total of 6 times over a cutter of some type. That is 936 linear feet I ran tonight!

 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
So some fun math. I have 156 linear feet of wood run a total of 6 times over a cutter of some type. That is 936 linear feet I ran tonight!


If you still have all 10, then that is some fun math :lol::lol::lol:

That's only .17 of a mile...not much :icon_thum

Dave:)
 

DavidF

New User
David
Well I have started working on the frame. I started with 2 piece of 5/4 red oak 13' long and 13" wide. I crosscut into 4' and 8" pieces then ripped them in to 4" wide pieces. I planned them down to 1". I setup the router table and ran the 3 different profiles needed. I then ripped the dado on the tablesaw with 2 cuts. With the router table set up with 2 feather boards, it was easy to feed those long pieces through.

So some fun math. I have 156 linear feet of wood run a total of 6 times over a cutter of some type. That is 936 linear feet I ran tonight!


If they are to enclose a full 4' x 8' piece won't they need to be longer than that, or at least either rail or stile or if the corners are to be mitred then they both need to be longer by about 1.5 x the molding width - or am I missing something????:eusa_thin
 
T

toolferone

If they are to enclose a full 4' x 8' piece won't they need to be longer than that, or at least either rail or stile or if the corners are to be mitred then they both need to be longer by about 1.5 x the molding width - or am I missing something????:eusa_thin

You are correct! I just gave the nominal dimension. In my case 3" longer on each side covered it.
 
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