Need Ideas for Legs for Log Bench

[R Squared]

Found a solution for the legs on this bench. I ended up using some hollowed out cookies that still had structure. Picture attached shown before sanding.




Need ideas on how to attach legs to this bench project. It’s basically a 6 foot white oak log with 1/4 of log notched out for sitting. Want the log to be focal point so looking to buy (or make) simple but sturdy legs to support. My challenge is attaching legs on uneven surface. Attached photo shows underside of bench. I can flatten attachment point for legs but they will still be different lengths given curve of log.

so looking for suggestions.

 

[pop-pop]

Using three legs comes to mind with two on the fat end. Length not fussy using three.

Maybe octagonal legs with round tenons like a stick chair?

 

[JRedding]

What about building a cradle as the attachment point? They’d be different heights to the variation in bottom, but would fully support the bench. You would essentially have two saw horses like you have in the picture, but rather than the flat surface at the top it’s a cradle where you plan to attach. The “bottom” of the cradle could be flat to accept the legs. If you wanted to get fancy about it, you could route a groove into the bottom of the bench to accept the cradle.

 

[Mike Davis]

I would bore 3 or 4 holes at 15 to 20 degrees off center at each end and use sections of white oak or yellow locust for the legs.

 

[jlwest]

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

The simplest method would be to buy the appropriate size of round tenon cutter that is used for making rustic log furniture and a corresponding forstner bit to cut mortises in the underside of the log bench. Mike has the design correct: splay the legs out 15-20 degrees and the bench will be plenty stable--more stable than a 90 degree, straight legged carriage under frame. Cutting the mortises on a double might get a little tricky, but embrace the challenge. Bad Dog Tools makes forstner bits with cutters on the skirt of the bit that solve this challenge. Slop in the glue and stick it together. The weight of the log should be enough pressure to make a solid joint, or just sit on it for 4 hours LOL. It should be easy to find enough straight ~4-6" white oak logs to make the legs. Cut them a little long to allow for leveling and getting the foot angle just right.

 

[Roy G]

Rich, you could use Mike's suggestion and use red cedar for the legs. It's quick and easy. Just drill a hole at roughly the angle that looks good and shape the end of the cedar to fit. Make the legs a comfortable length for sitting. If you plan on placing the bench on dirt, the leveling will be easy. On a hard surface, you need to trim the legs so the bench is fairly level.

Wiley got in before me with his entry. When I did my benches I found the largest bit I had and drilled the holes. Then I got a circle template and marked the end of the cedar to the same diameter. Judicious saw and chisel work and they fit. Epoxy in the hole, pound in the legs and you're done.

Roy G

 

[Wilsoncb]

I would bore 3 or 4 holes at 15 to 20 degrees off center at each end and use sections of white oak or yellow locust for the legs.

View attachment 229982

Mike, what is the tool laying on top of the garbage can?

 

[Mike Davis]

That is a tin stake. My daughter does tin smithing and I was building a workbench for her.

 

[jlwest]

I have used white cedar logs which are straight and small, less than 5". They worked great.

 

[R Squared]

Using three legs comes to mind with two on the fat end. Length not fussy using three.

Maybe octagonal legs with round tenons like a stick chair?

I like the look of 3 legs but not sure will work with the uneven weight distrubtion. Can possible space front legs closer together than the back.

 

[R Squared]

What about building a cradle as the attachment point? They’d be different heights to the variation in bottom, but would fully support the bench. You would essentially have two saw horses like you have in the picture, but rather than the flat surface at the top it’s a cradle where you plan to attach. The “bottom” of the cradle could be flat to accept the legs. If you wanted to get fancy about it, you could route a groove into the bottom of the bench to accept the cradle.

That’s an idea

 

[R Squared]

The simplest method would be to buy the appropriate size of round tenon cutter that is used for making rustic log furniture and a corresponding forstner bit to cut mortises in the underside of the log bench. Mike has the design correct: splay the legs out 15-20 degrees and the bench will be plenty stable--more stable than a 90 degree, straight legged carriage under frame. Cutting the mortises on a double might get a little tricky, but embrace the challenge. Bad Dog Tools makes forstner bits with cutters on the skirt of the bit that solve this challenge. Slop in the glue and stick it together. The weight of the log should be enough pressure to make a solid joint, or just sit on it for 4 hours LOL. It should be easy to find enough straight ~4-6" white oak logs to make the legs. Cut them a little long to allow for leveling and getting the foot angle just right.

Thanks for details

 

[Carabnr]

w

Thanks for details

What did you end up doing? I like what you had with the cookies, they could have been pegged in and done alright for quite a while. Seems like the bench was heavy enough to not tip side to side.

I've been making large tapered tenons out of riven white oak logs for spring pole lathe builds for the GreenWood Wrights'Fest. I have one tenon cutter and boring tools that will do 1 1/2", and have borrowed an old adjustable tenon cutter that will go biigger than 2". I use a boring machine to bore my holes, and if I'm on an uneven surface I use another bench to support the tool. If I can't use my boring machine, I use an 1 1/2" to 2" T handle auger bit. Then I will taper the tenon holes with a reamer and adjust my rake (forward and back) and splay (how far out)... You might like to think about the cant of the back and the seat, the rake to the front legs should be a little longer than the back legs. I like the way white oak lasts in an exposed environment... Hope this help somewhere on your chair making Journey.

 

[R Squared]

Hi Cara, thanks for those tips, sounds like you have a good system. For this bench I ended up improvising and used some hollowed trunk pieces to make unique legs. This is more of a decorative show piece for foyer but good enough to sit on to tie shoes. I enjoyed working with the white oak. When I

have time will post more pictures of table and mantles I made with it too.

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

Your method for making the legs is quite creative and really makes for a distinctive looking piece. Well done