Need advice re new rock maple butcher block countertops

[Fay]

Hello, everyone -

I am undertaking a gut renovation of my kitchen and plan to have grain-edge rock maple butcher block countertops. I do not want a permanent seal, like poly or varnish, and I've learned the way to get that in a food-safe way is mineral oil on the 7-7-7 schedule. What I cannot seem to satisfactorily suss out is a food-safe stain or other preparation that will enhance the gold tones (am not a fan of the white blond of raw maple) of the wood while not obscuring the grain or severely darkening the maple and its many variations. So I'm turning to the experts for your advice and recommendations. BTW - I won't be doing any of the work myself (too old) but have a knowledgeable contractor who will appreciate having the information. Thank you! Fay

 

[jlwest]

In my opinion if you don't routinely seal the top, bottom, and edges of the wood countertops, especially near the sink, you will probably have trouble in the future.

 

[Fay]

Thank you - I'm planning to seal the edges around the sink, and my contractor and I have been discussing using hardie plank under the counter run that includes the sink. I really don't want to seal the top - I've lived with that on a big butcher block table I inherited and have been using in the kitchen and find the sealant wears off. But I'm certainly not averse to also sealing the bottom. Your thoughts about the hardie plank and whether we should also seal the bottom? Or is one of those options sufficient?

 

[Bill Clemmons]

Rather than a stain you might try a dye, either alcohol or water based, to get the color you want.

 

[Fay]

Thank you - I looked at one dye that seemed promising, but the vendor says it's not food safe. Can you recommend a brand that is?

 

[zdorsch]

I’m a fan of waterlox for countertops. It will darken slightly and reapplying simple.

I’ve used it on birch and cherry countertops for kitchens and baths. I’ve also used it on a pine top kitchen table.

 

[Fay]

Thank you. Which Waterlox product/s have you used for countertops? They seem to have a dizzying array!

 

[zdorsch]

The original sealer and finish.

 

[Fay]

Thank you. Now, when you say reapplying is simple, is it possible to reapply only in spots, or will I have to do the entire run at the same time? (I like to know exactly what I'm getting into.) Also, is any prep other than sanding going to be necessary? And if we use it on the underside and edges, esp. around the sink, will that be sufficient protection for the counter where it rests on the sink and lies atop the dishwasher? Will it need more than one coat on any surface?

 

[zdorsch]

Thank you. Now, when you say reapplying is simple, is it possible to reapply only in spots, or will I have to do the entire run at the same time? (I like to know exactly what I'm getting into.) Also, is any prep other than sanding going to be necessary? And if we use it on the underside and edges, esp. around the sink, will that be sufficient protection for the counter where it rests on the sink and lies atop the dishwasher? Will it need more than one coat on any surface?

I’ve done spots, but I generally just redo the entire surface. A light sanding is what I’ve done with a high grit paper.

Here are instructions directly waterlox - Refreshing or Recoating a Waterlox® Finished Surface - Waterlox Coatings Corporation.

I have finished the underside and used more on exposed edges (endgrain). I’ve not used an under mount sink for wood countertops.

Countertops need more than on coat. It’s a film building finish, so it soaks into the wood before building a finish.

There are a few others in this site that have used waterlox, just search for waterlox. I’m in no way a finishing expert!

 

[jlwest]

Thank you - I'm planning to seal the edges around the sink, and my contractor and I have been discussing using hardie plank under the counter run that includes the sink. I really don't want to seal the top - I've lived with that on a big butcher block table I inherited and have been using in the kitchen and find the sealant wears off. But I'm certainly not averse to also sealing the bottom. Your thoughts about the hardie plank and whether we should also seal the bottom? Or is one of those options sufficient?

The area around the sink, I assume you will use a top mount sink, is exposed to water quite often so it should be sealed top, bottom and edges. I would do the bottom to stabilize the wood. Generally wood and water don't get along very well. I am not sure what the purpose of the hardie plank is unless your counter is less than 2" thick.

 

[Fay]

Thanks so much for going to so much trouble to help me. Sounds like the best way to go, if I choose Waterlox (and now am leaning toward it), is semigloss. Will that approximate the look of an oil finish? Here's where I'm coming from when I ask that: I remember too well the early days of poly when it was easy to pick out a poly finish because it had a telltale white haze to it. My other question arises from my foray into the Waterlox website. After I clicked on Original and then Application, the website sent me to a page that demanded to know what finish I wanted to use - Original - The traditional resin-modified Tung Oil finish since 1910? - then asks which sealer I want to use: Universal, Truetone, or Original. Your advice for what I want to do? I don't want to screw up!

 

[Fay]

Counter is 1.5 inches thick. Still use the hardie plank? And I was thinking of using a marine product to seal the edges around the sink. Your thoughts?

 

[Ricksmi]

I like to use Tung oil which can be from Amber to dark walnut, food safe and spill/wine resistant and waterproof for the most part. I have used it in kitchen remodels several times and people like how good it looks and best of all it lasts for 3-5 years depending on use. I have it on a 12' birch countertop 2" thick on the lower level of my house used as a bar/food service for gatherings. Also check out Watco they have a very good butcher block oil and stain mix.

 

[Fay]

Many thanks. Only Tung oil? or does it need to be sealed or followed up with mineral oil? Will the amber darken the rock maple without obscuring the grain? is it food safe? When you say it lasts for three to five years, does that mean resanding before reapplying? I do plan to use the countertops for food prep.

 

[Rwe2156]

IMO hardie board under the countertop will be a mistake. Best practices in ww'ing dictate even air flow to prevent cupping.

I would consider sealing the bottom with epoxy, at least a few inches outside the sink.

 

[Mike Davis]

I really don't like using mineral oil on a food surface. It never dries so it always feels greasy and transfers to bread or any dry food.
Rick's recommended treatment of True Tung oil is good, it only needs to be wiped on every 3-4 years to look fresh and protect the wood. I always use organic flax seed oil. I have spoons and cutting boards that I treated over 20 years ago that we still use. Could probably use a freshen up with oil but they still shed water. DrBob is right about the equal flow of air and I would follow his advice to avoid a solid cover on the bottom. I would treat the wood with the same oil I use on top. Epoxy for a couple inches around the sink opening is a good idea to prolong the life of the countertop. As for stain or dye, I prefer the natural beauty of the wood and Maple does darken as it ages.

 

[Ricksmi]

Many thanks. Only Tung oil? or does it need to be sealed or followed up with mineral oil? Will the amber darken the rock maple without obscuring the grain? is it food safe? When you say it lasts for three to five years, does that mean resanding before reapplying? I do plan to use the countertops for food prep.

Tung oil lets the grain come through and after it drys you are good to go and the maple will over time darken all on its own, Food safe Yes, after a few years depending on use, cleaning products used maybe a light sanding and reapply. Mike mentioned Flax seed oil which in IMHO is excellent as well and Walnut oil is also very good. BUT the important thing as mentioned above is to treat both sides of the counter I put several coats on the bottom before mounting to the base cabinets. I do like the idea of epoxy around the sink cutout to keep water from soaking in.
The important thing is whether you go with wood or stone annual maintenance will keep your counter looking good and last many decades.

 

[mkepke]

Leaving aside my opinion of using wood countertops to begin with, I would recommend looking at one of the modern 'hard wax' finishes like Rubio Monocoat/OSMO/etc. Easy to apply, easy to repair, more durable than a traditional oil finish.

Food Contact Compliance (Food Safe)

Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C shows food contact compliance with regulation EC n° 1935/2004.

www.rubiomonocoatusa.com

Wood Whisperer video on why he mostly prefers hard wax finishes to oil-varnish blends now:

-Mark

 

[Fay]

Thank you. Which Waterlox product/s have you used for countertops? They seem to have a dizzying array!

Just wanted to let you know that the Waterlox people say the only product of theirs that I can use on food prep areas is the Oil and Stain, and - alas - the stain comes in only two colors, neither appropriate for maple. I've pretty much decided to use Odie's, which another member recommended.