My first shooting board

[Jack A.]

It isn't as exciting as refurbishing an industrial scale planer, but I made a simple shooting board recently.

Unfortunately, the side of the block plane isn't square to the bottom, so I had to use the #5. It isn't square, either, but I was able to adjust the blade enough to make it square.

I had also made the outer hole slightly larger than the bolt so I could fine-tune the angle. Turns out the little washer wasn't enough because tightening the bolt deformed the wood and caused the fence to shift slightly. So with those couple tweaks, I have a nice square setup.

And here's my hand tool woodworking setup as it currently stands.

 

[Dee2]

Maybe with more descriptive text and dimensions, you could add this to the Resources forum. Please?

 

[mdbuntyn]

The side doesn't have to be square to the sole. All planes have some degree of lateral blade adjustability to compensate for that

 

[J_Graham]

Looks good Jack! I found that I ended up changing lots of pieces of my shooting board as I found better ways to build it.

 

[Jack A.]

Maybe with more descriptive text and dimensions, you could add this to the Resources forum. Please?

I don't know if that's a good idea. I'm just getting started developing actual woodworking skills, so I would consider these projects more of a cautionary tale than a resource. But as I gain experience and confidence I'll consider it. Does "whatever you have lying around in your scrap pile" count as a dimension?

 

[Dee2]

I don't know if that's a good idea. I'm just getting started developing actual woodworking skills, so I would consider these projects more of a cautionary tale than a resource. But as I gain experience and confidence I'll consider it. Does "whatever you have lying around in your scrap pile" count as a dimension?

Scrap pile use. Of course. Just need a size reference.
We all learn from mistakes. Check out pop-pop's post. His are excellent examples of developing a design/application and trial and error.

But, we are on standby until you are ready to share "How-to". Please continue!

 

[Burly John]

When shooting, I generally prefer using my #5 or #6 over one of my block planes. I find the larger size and extra mass feels easier to handle. FWIW, I generally tweak my shooting board when needed using a shoulder plane.
Nice build. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Bill Anderson]

It isn't as exciting as refurbishing an industrial scale planer, but I made a simple shooting board recently.

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Unfortunately, the side of the block plane isn't square to the bottom, so I had to use the #5. It isn't square, either, but I was able to adjust the blade enough to make it square.

I had also made the outer hole slightly larger than the bolt so I could fine-tune the angle. Turns out the little washer wasn't enough because tightening the bolt deformed the wood and caused the fence to shift slightly. So with those couple tweaks, I have a nice square setup.

View attachment 230731


And here's my hand tool woodworking setup as it currently stands.

View attachment 230732

I make my shooting boards with a 2 part fence: one part fixed and one part movable. The fixed part is glued to the surface, just shy of the rabbet edge. I take care to glue this up perfectly square. The second part has similar dimensions but has two slotted screw holes in it. This is screwed to the first fence. The slots are about 1” long each. This allows the sliding fence to be adjusted to the right over time as it is worn down by the planing action. I adjust it just so that the plane iron does not hit it, but it provides good support for the piece being planed. I also have a 45 degree diagonal fence situated about 6” down the platform. This also has slotted screws (top down). In addition, the screw holes are wider than the screw shaft. I have scribed an accurate 45 degree line on the SB base so that I can visually line up the fence when I adjust it at the cutting edge.