MS 170 Stihl Chainsaw

[Cody]

Looking at this saw. Don't do a lot of cutting, but want something relaible when I do. They go for about $180. Just wondering if that would be a good saw, or for a few more bucks, something a little bigger?

 

[Mike Davis]

I just bought an MS 250 to replace my 026 which was over ten years old and used hard.

The new one has some nice features that I like. It is a little lighter and has almost as much power as the old one.

If I had a little more money I might have gone a little bigger.

For light firewood use and limbing the 170 should be fine. I only wish I had more when I get into 20 inch dry oak logs. And then it does fine if I don't get in a hurry.

 

[Cody]

Yea, Mike, I don't do much. Tree here and there and a little firewood for outdoor pit. I went to the local dealer, but they don't have the 170, guess the 180 replaced it. One dealer I talked to earlier said he liked the 170 better than the 180 and was cheaper. Said he had several (170), so thouhgt he may have been trying to move them. Looks like all dealers have the same price.

 

[milleo]

Cody - I'd suggest waiting for a bigger older saw. If your using the saw occasionally a used older saw will be fine. You should be able to find a better price via CL. I'd suggest something between a 026-036.

Oak (yes my name should give me some street cred on this :gar-Bi )

 

[Cody]

Thanks Oak, have looked a little on CL, but don't want to get someone else's troubles. if they didn't take care of it, it will just be trouble for me. I may go a little bigger, like the one Mike metioned, MS 350. Most dealers said that was the biggest seller.

 

[Mike Davis]

I got the 250 -- not 350. :swoon:

 

[JimD]

My son has a used Stihl but my only chain saw is an old McCullouh. I bought my McCullouh nearly 20 years ago and the last time I needed it it ran fine. I has a 14 inch bar. That is a limitation but not a major one for what I've done with it. I've taken down several trees it would not go through on one pass but have not needed to cut up a tree it would not take down coming from both sides (nothing bigger than 28 inches). I learned to run a saw from a guy who heated his house with wood. He had a big Stihl and a little one about the size of my saw. The big one had a 30 inch bar if I remember right, it might have been a 36. He saw me doing my two sided routine and loaned me his big Stihl. I started horsing it like I did my saw and he yelled at me to stop. He then showed me how to let the saw's weight pull itself into the wood. When you are not lifting up on the saw because it isn't wanting to bog down, then it's time to sharpen the chain. Makes a big difference. I learned to sharpen the chain too and usually just do it on the saw. It takes as long to change a chain as it does to sharpen it on my saw. But I also understand newer saws have simplified that some. Another tip is to use Stihl bar oil (or maybe husky). I ruined one bar using cheap stuff. Another tip my friend gave me was to limb the tree before starting to cut it up. Start at the top of the tree and work you way down. That way a lot of the wood is sticking up in the air so you run no risk of grounding your bar. Your chain dulls a lot faster when you hit the ground than it does cutting wood.

Jim

 

[Cody]

Sorry, that's what I meant. That is what the guy said was the biggest seller. I found a 028 in mint condition for $250, but it's in WV. Probably better off $300 for the MS 250 new

 

[Cody]

Jim, I may cut a small tree if it's dead and needs to come down, or trim a few limbs, nothing major as I'm not too comfortable with doing so.

 

[Mike Davis]

Get the 250, then you can come over to my place and practice cutting firewood. I'll let you practice as much as you want. :rotflm:

 

[Cody]

You're a good friend to make that offer.

 

[JimD]

Cody,

If you are relatively new to using a chainsaw, it actually would be a good idea to have someone with more experience observe you and offer some pointers. Chain saws are not hard to use but they can cut you very quickly if you allow them to. Pointers from an experienced person could help you stay safe. Might be better if it was your firewood being cut however.....

Jim

 

[Cody]

I have used them before for small things, but wouldn't attempt cutting a huge tree and trying to make it land where I wanted it to. But I like the idea of it being MY firewood. Anytime Mike!

 

[LeftyTom]

With whatever chainsaw you decide on, budget $70 for a pair of protective chaps. That can save you a bad injury.

http://www.baileysonline.com/category.asp?catID=135

I have the 14" mini MAC, that I picked up in a trade. Like you, Cody, I trim a limb here and there, and take down the occasional problem tree.

One caveat about buying used: know if you want a saw without the chain brake, as some older saws to not have this safety feature.

 

[CrealBilly]

With whatever chainsaw you decide on, budget $70 for a pair of protective chaps. That can save you a bad injury.

http://www.baileysonline.com/category.asp?catID=135

+100 :thumbs_up Something has to stop that chain...

and baileys is the best - try their woodsman pro bar and chain loops - you'll never go back...

and if your going to be cutting small amounts of firewood - you may want to consider the Smart-Holder Firewood Holder something like this will keep your chain out of the dirt and save on your back. Scroll down to the bottom and watch the video.

 

[Cody]

Thanks Tom and Jeff. Good info.

 

[CrealBilly]

Thanks Tom and Jeff. Good info.

YW- I can't stress enough about wearing chaps - I have a pair of jeans with a cut in the left leg and a big chunk out of my leg to prove that wearing chaps is the right thing to do. It happens in the blink of an eye.

Chaps will clog up the saw, stop the chain from spinning, whereas jeans and flesh wont.