Outlet height depends on where you are working... higher is better if you are working on the bench... But even better for benches, is mounted up under the bench its self with a clear shelf space to set the jig saw, circular saw that is plugged in. Top of the bench outlets are nice for detail work with grinders and polishers, but the tools and cords get in the way when they start to multiply. Lower is better if the cord is on the floor going to where you are working, as the trip height isn't as great when your cord is just quite not long enough... Make sure you have an outlet or 4 right beside the door ways. 90 degree/ right angle plugs are also a neat trick for equipment that stays plugged in...
I would pull the table saw further off the wall, if you need to make a mitered cut longer than 4 feet you'll be in a jam to the right side... or dado the sides of a book shelf.
Skill saws aren't all bad, so long as one edge of your work is jointed. Particularly on long stuff since you can bring the saw to your work instead of having to clear out a path to the miter saw.
I have a preference for makita and dewalt circular saws as they don't throw chips in your face and seem to have more power, and last longer than most. I use Freud diablo framing blades... They'll cut a radius better than 1/2 inch per foot in 2x stuff. They follow a line like a razor too, don't look at the guide... but the front of the blade where it is taking the material. Speed squares of varying size for 90's. Put the cleated side of the square on the far side of the work and make sure the motor on your saw is high enough to clear your hand.
There are also protractor guides that work like speed squares... Don't buy the stanley...
I'm fond of this style saw horse. I make them stackable with 3/4 plywood on the end pieces, and one a few inches narrower than the other so they are easily stackable. A sheet of 3/4 plywood on top with a screw or two is a decent work bench. I normally make mine 36 inches tall, 2 inches taller than most saws so I can stack up lumber to be ripped and feed it down hill off the forward one through the saw...
http://woodworking.about.com/od/shopequipmentsupplies/ss/woodSawhorses.htm
Bomb proof and not wobbly... Made out of #1 treated and stainless screws they can stay outside and not be harmed any more than your back porch. #2 treated is quite wet, and heavy...
If your air compressor must be inside... consider mounting your air compressor on a shelf over the jointer, up as high as you can put it in the corner. Not only does this free up your under bench storage, but it makes it much easier to drain the tank of condensation at the end of the day. Getting down on my hands and knees in saw dust is the last thing I want to do at the end of the day... but if you don't you'll rust out the tank. Use black iron pipe as a condenser coming off the tank straight down to a trap with a petcock drain... The black iron pipe means your water seperator doesn't have to be as nice... Ideally you'd have close to 20 feet of pipe, so think about a U shape straight down from the tank to a petcock, back up to the ceiling and across your doorway, back down right beside your work bench. Put a T in front of your regulator with a valve and a quick connect so you can get "Shop air" at 110-120psi. Then put a T down stream of your regulator so you can have a long hose ready to go coiled and hooked up (valved off) and a short whip for working right a the bench.
The cadilac approach is to have a third line coming straight down from the ceiling over the bench with your plastic coil hose hanging just higher than your head... so you can snap in your nail gun shoot a few nails, pop the quick connect and it bounces back out of the way. Put valves on everything and plumb in the line from the tank to the black iron without a quick connect.
Don't bother with the off brand stuff, spring for milton (M type... grin) quick connects as they don't leak and rust up. Without the valves you'll have the compressor kicking on and off while you are thinking hard throughout the day... or have to wait 5 minutes when you want air.
Lowes and Home Depot water seperators aren't worth a flip... So get a decent brand name with a dessicant filter and a big glass bowl. My preference is one regulator on the main line and use the air adjustment on the cup gun to work from there... Set your air pressure with the trigger pulled.
Don't underestimate the glory of a brad nail gun for building jigs. Apply glue to the pieces, pop in a few nails and put it to use. No 3rd hand, no clamps...
If you haven't bought the compressor yet, don't get an oil-less one. They are obnoxiously loud until you've run them a few hundred hours... then your ears are half dead, and the head is finally broken in. Get the biggest tank you can afford, and a 240v motor running a dual piston head if you can swing it... Getting up to 110psi on a big tank 120v motors get hot and like to pop breakers if they aren't wired in on with a big gauge wire. Cast iron on the head, cry once... All this is if you are going to do some spray painting and want to be able to run some air tools. Air Da's are a beautiful thing... but long board sanders mean you can make a rounded corner post flat true and perfect without as much sweat.
Zach
