Chuck: all couple of observations:
1. Yes, you will want an oil/water separator. If you are going to be using your compressor for other air tools, I suggest you make a small frame of scrap 2 x 4s to mount it on with QDs (quick disconnect fittings) on each side of it. Set it on the floor out of the way and run a hose from the compressor to it, and then another from it to your spray gun. You won't need it for the air tools. If you do this, mark one air hose for painting, and only usi it downstream of the separator. The hoses you connect straight to the compressor will have oil and/or water in them after the first use.
2. It appears from the picture that the "regulator" is the knob on the side of the gun. This is a "volume regulator". It is basically a needle valve that restricts air flow. They work and are usable, but if you are running 80 psi to the gun, you will get an 80 psi blast when each time you initially pull the trigger. A "pressure regulator" is much better, and they are also made small enough to attach to the air inlet at the base of the handle. You can distinguish them by the fact that they will have a small guage on them. With it, regardless of hose pressure you will get what you set it at (i.e 45 psi for ex) continuously from initial pull onwards.
3. For an HVLP gun you need air volume. Use 3/8" ID hose up to within 10' of the gun. If you want to put a short section of 1/4" ID at the gun for more flexibility, it will have minimal effect, but 25" of 1/4" hose significantly restricts volume (very difficult to maintain 8 cfm through it)
4. All air hoses are not the same. Pick them up and bend them. You want the most flexible you can find. The stiff ones are more durable for heavy construction work or dragging over concrete, but are a pain to lay out flat and to roll up when you are done. They are normally rated for about 300 psi. BTW, I am not a fan of these self-coiling vinyl hoses except for airing tires or using with a blower for cleaning chips off a drill press. They will cause you a lot of grief attached to a spray gun unless suspended overhead..
5. The strainers Travis mentioned look like paper funnels with a mesh screen in the bottom. They are used to strain the coating to ensure their are no lumps, etc in it. One lump lodged in the fluid orifice keeping the trigger open will run a coating job in a hurry. In a pinch you can use cheesecloth, but its messier and doesn't do as good a job.
6. If you can't find spray paint stuff at the box store, look at Car Quest or other automotive store that carries a good line of auto finishing supplies (By the way, they are cheaper on wet-dry sandpaper than Lowes or HD and usually carry up to 4000 g)
7. Go to dollar general and buy a cheap set of stainless steel measuring cups. They are great for accurately measuring coating ratios, and also are handy for filling the gun cup. Use 'em, throw 'em in coffee can half full of DNA (or the thinner used with your coating) and put the lid on, fish 'em out, wipe 'em off and they're ready for the next gun load. DNA and IPA (isoproplyl alcohol) by the way, are EPA "Exempt" solvents, and work well as a cleaners for most wet or soft coatings except lacquer. The IPA I'm referring to is commercial IPA from a coating store, not the water diluted stuff from the drug store.
Hope this helps:lol:
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