Fixing tear out

[CatButler]

I was using a block plane (shout out to splint eastwood:icon_thum for selling it to me) to clean up the excess glue and extra wood on a through tenon on a step stool I was making for my wife. I wasn't being careful enough and tore out some grain on the face. It's deep enough that sanding will create a noticeable impression. I've been playing around with making a veneer strip using a hand plane from scrap from the same board and gluing it over the gouge, matching the grain direction and then sanding it down. I've tried this on a scrap board with OK results (much better than anything else I have tried). I tried it with titebond 3 and super glue. The tite bond took a while to setup and left a dark spot that didn't stain well. The super glue dried fast and clear, but was too sticky (almost glued fingers to scrap board) and didn't do a great job filling the dent.

What I am thinking of is to use some Quickwood epoxy putty stick as a filler and an adhesive for the strip. This is moldable, not too sticky, but is ready to go in 30 minutes, sands well and doesn't shrink. I know it fills well but not sure how good of an adhesive it will be for the veneer.


Has anybody tried anything similar? I've got plenty of scrap and can create plenty of tear out for tests.

PS I'm using Watco Natural finish Danish Oil as a finish.

 

[Bas]

Tough problem. Titebond II might give you a better result than Titebond III, it dries lighter. But I'd still go with CA glue (super glue). What I do is take an ordinary shim and cut off a little from the thin end (so that the edge is ~ 1/32") and then trim it from the other side to about 2". This is the "handle". Glue the top of the veneer to the shim edge with 1 or 2 drops of CA glue. Now you can apply CA glue to the work piece and push the veneer strip down hard using the shim. Once dry, cut off the shim and sand it down. You might get a better bond by first using a hobby knive to shape the bottom of the veneer strip, and/ or deepening the gouge.

Yes, CA glue works grrreat on skin.

I have not used Quickwood epoxy. It's worth a try on some scrap. You don't have to worry too much about whether it will take the finish since you're using a veneer strip, although if the epoxy (or CA glue for that matter) soaks in you could see a light spot. With epoxy, you should be able to finish the veneer strip with a little Watco Oil first, let it cure thoroughly, and then make the repair.

 

[Travis Porter]

I like epoxy and it can be glued to itself, which is something other glues cannot. I use titebond II or original titebond and haven't had the darkening issue. Still, epoxy nor CA will accept any stain.

Personally, I would go with Titebond original or Titebond II. Cut your piece, fit it well, glue it, clamp it in, and then put some glue in any gaps and mix in some sawdust with your fingers. It will be very hard to spot after clean up.

 

[CatButler]

Thanks for the responses. I like the idea of finishing the strip first. The Quickwood putty dries pretty light and is nice because I can just slice off a piece and mold it to what I want. I have found some things that say it is a good adhesive too. I keep fighting againt the shaving that wants to curl up on me. At least I have some things to experiment with.

 

[Mike Davis]

You can't feather out the sanding far enough to make the indention less noticeable? I would be leery of a patch.

 

[CatButler]

I decided to try Mike's advice and feather it out. I was pretty happy at least looking at it outside. I hauled the assembled stool inside and sadly, where it sits in the light while I'm eating breakfast, I can notice the defect, but I think I can make it better. I also think it would be unnoticeable with finish on it. I won't get to touch it for a few weekends because I will be busy with the kids at Y Guide/Princess camps. I will post pictures when done.