Equipment setup query?

[idreaminblue]

Hi everyone, new to this site (and woodworking generally) but I had a quick question that perhaps someone on this thread could answer. I just bought both a table saw and a jointer/planer from some hobbyists on craigslist a few weeks ago. I'm trying to mill my lumber down to size and keep getting trapezodial edges. I'm afraid the jointer knives are not properly aligned (and since both are knicked in the same place, they probably ought to be replaced). So here are my questions:

1. Does anyone have any recommendations for a place near Durham/RTP that would sharpen those jointer blades for me (or give me an idea as to how much it would cost, each blade is 5" long)?
2. Does anyone know of a business or person who might be willing (for a small fee) set the blades for me so as to ensure they are as level as possible? I don't have the jigs or tools required, but would be willing to spend a few dollars to make sure it was done correctly. Also, as per the original topic - I would certainly join a woodshop in the RTP area.

Thanks for your help in advance,

Chris

 

[sapwood]

Hi Chris and welcome to NCWWer!
I moved you post to the Power Tools Forum. Your questions should receive more attention here.

BTW, glad you joined and we encourage you to introduce yourself in the Who We Are forum.

Good luck,
Roger

 

[timf67]

I assume that you have checked that your jointer fence is square to the jointer bed? You can also check the knife set yourself with a good straight edge. Your outfeed table should be parallel with the top of the knives, so you can check each side of each knife with a straight edge to be sure they are set right.

 

[ashley_phil]

welcome to the board!

i would imagine if you offered up some beer and pizza you could get some help sorting out your equipment!

 

[DavidF]

Hi Chris, welcome to the club!
For sharpening I usually send mine to Dynamic saw - www.dynamicsaw.com $0.50 per inch. I believe Raleigh saw does it as well, they are off Glenwood Ave in Raleigh.

As for setting up, get yourself a low cost Dial indicator and magnetic base from Harbor freight, the rest is time consuming, but easy. Beg or borrow a straight edge to check the tables are coplaner.

 

[Travis Porter]

Tom Ferrone used to do onsite set ups and such, so you might send him a PM.

If the knives are knicked, you can offset them to get around replacing them for now. Loosen one up, and shift it slight one way. Go to the next and shift it slight the opposite direction.

If you are getting trapezoidal edges like I think you are describing, I would suggest that your outfeed table is not level to the knives. Your outfeed table should be almost exactly at the height of the knives. Take a straightedge and move the table up or down until the knives just barely touch it.

 

[James Davis]

Are you trying to do all of your surfacing on a jointer? If so, then that could be the biggest part of your problem. the jointer does not have any way to keep surfaces parallel. you need a planer to finish up after you have two adjacent faces straight and square to each other. The jointer had no way to know when two faces are parallel to each other. The table saw will help with getting the edges parallel but with the faces that is another story.

Hope this helps,
James

 

[idreaminblue]

Thanks everyone,

Like I'm said I'm very new to this. I got a Craftsman jointer/planer (5+1/8" knives) and thought I had set it up properly. I found an article on setting knives, and followed the instructions pretty well (using a straight edge) but then noticed that the blades are both nicked in the same spot (close to the fence) and as a result leave tiny strips that protrude from the finished surface. I'm trying to do some relatively simple (at least I think it should be simple) stuff and can't seem to make clean passes with the jointer. I guess I can take off the knives again and see if I can improve anything.

Thanks again for your help,

Chris

 

[Sweetgum]

"leave tiny strips that protrude from the finished surface"

Just throwing the obvious out there—not sure if you've encountered it before given your "newness"—but is the board too wide for the jointer bed (leaving a strip on the edge of the board), or are the protruding sections of wood well within the blade boundary?

Conversely, a new set of knives may be what you need ($15.70).

Not sure which you need based on the info you provided. Hope this helps.
6 x 5/8 x 1/8

http://www.amazon.com/Jointer-Planer-Knives-Craftsman-others/drillpress/B000UDJNS2

6 1/8 x 5/8 x 1/8

http://www.amazon.com/Jointer-Plane...ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1256752818&sr=1-3

 

[idreaminblue]

No, the strip ends up within the boundary of the blade, not towards one edge. I saw on searspartsdirect I could get a new pair of blades for $13, so that might be my next move, if you don't think Raleigh saw could grind out the nick.

Thanks,

Chris

 

[timf67]

You may want to pick up a set of blades as a spare, then you can use your jointer while one set is out for sharpening.

Of course now that you are a member here, someone will talk you into a bigger jointer soon...:gar-Bi In that case, hold off on new blades - and hold on to your wallet!!!

 

[Bigdog72]

It always pays to have a spare so order the new set (if SWMBO allows it). Also, as long as you are taking the blades out, see if you can offset the nick. If that isn't possible you can move your fence in to the cover the nicks and process narrower boards.

 

[eyekode]

Nicked blades happen. Try to run a wire brush over boards before jointing to get the rocks off.
Note that they are typically pretty easy to sand out. Jointers and planers dimension lumber but do not give you a finished surface in general.

I also didn't hear if you had a planer? As a previous poster said a jointer cannot make two sides parallel. If you are trying to surface 4 sides of your lumber with a jointer you are in for frustration. Any error in setup is compounded as you surface each face. Jointers are good for flattening stock and getting a good edge. But they cannot give you parallel sides. You need a planer for that (or buy your lumber s2s).

As for setting the knives serious trapezoids sounds like the blades are not coplaner with the outfeed table. I have used a straight edge and feeler gauge to set them before and it worked ok. I now use a dial indicator on a jig that holds the indicator a constant height from the outfeed table.

And don't forget to make sure the tables are co-planer!

Good luck!
Salem