Drill Press taper size/chuck advice

[Darl Bundren]

I'm in the market for a floor drill press. If I'm planning on primarily drilling holes ranging from 1/16 inch to using forstner bits, what taper sizes accept this range of bits? Or do I just need to consider the chuck size? The Powermatic PM2008B I've used most has a chuck that doesn't seem to work well with small bits--I've resorted to using hex shank bits for the smaller sizes. I've decided on swing, quill travel, HP, and all that, for the most part, and am scouring the web in my search. Thanks!

 

[Dee2]

Are you searching for a system of drill bits with morse taper shafts, or a chuck with a Morse taper mount?
My experience is in using a chuck with a taper mount. For small bits, particularly for wire sized bits, I mount a (much smaller) chuck into my 5/8" chuck which has a Morse taper mount.

Perhaps I'm not understanding what you seek.

 

[Darl Bundren]

Are you searching for a system of drill bits with morse taper shafts, or a chuck with a Morse taper mount?
My experience is in using a chuck with a taper mount. For small bits, particularly for wire sized bits, I mount a (much smaller) chuck into my 5/8" chuck which has a Morse taper mount.

Perhaps I'm not understanding what you seek.

I think the chuck with the MT mount. Am I correct in thinking that regardless of Morse taper size I can find a chuck that will fit it that will accommodate the small bits? I sure sound like a clown here .

 

[Dee2]

My DP uses a #2 Morse taper and so does my lathe. Some convenience but it has been a long time since I changed the chuck on the DP. DP spindles can vary on what taper they use, if they use a taper. Check your manufacturer's specs.

My 5/8" chuck won't hold a small (wire sized) bit, thus I chuck a smaller chuck into the 5/8". FWIW, you can buy a chuck separate from the MT adapter.

If you want to see what is available in chucks and MT adapters, look through McMaster Carr catalog. While you are looking, see what the smallest bit the chucks will hold.

 

[Wilsoncb]

I think the chuck with the MT mount. Am I correct in thinking that regardless of Morse taper size I can find a chuck that will fit it that will accommodate the small bits? I sure sound like a clown here .

The chuck you buy may come with the adapter option you need. As @Dee2 suggested you can find just about any MT adapter combination you need at McMaster Carr. The adapter will have one taper for the drill press and another for the chuck. I recently got a really good keyless chuck that will handle down to 1/16” with no problems. It is a Rohm Spiro and normally sells for over $200, but I got it for $8 at an estate sale. I had to get a new adapter and McMaster had one with the J33/#2 combo I needed for $28.

 

[Michael Mathews]

I don't have one but I believe you can get a small chuck that's got a round shaft on the opposite end. When you want to use the small bits, just mount the small chuck shaft into the large chuck and voila!

 

[pop-pop]

Another cheapie option is to add a cut-off 3/8” bolt to an old drill chuck and chuck the bolt in your DP.

 

[tvrgeek]

I replaced the crap chuck in my Delta with a mid-price one. Key chuck. I have never had a keyless that dis not slip at some point. MT-2, 1/2 inch. It holds less than a 1/16. Better chucks can hold a pretty small bit. Good chucks are EXPENCIVE. There are a lot of reviews in the machining forum world. You don't always get what you pay for, but if you don;t pay for it, you sure as well don't get it! An Albrecht is like $300. Seiko, Rohm. Not Jacobs. Look at their specs.

Some chucks come integrated with the taper, some are two piece. The problem of chucking up a small chuck in a larger one is you are compounding tolerances. And cheap stamped shell chucks are terrible anyway. Accurately holding a small bit is unfortunately a milling machine problem and usually in a collet. One can of course get stepped shank small bits. The tend to be very short which is also good for accuracy.

 

[Mike Davis]

Amazon.com

Here is the one I bought for my Grizzly press. It holds down to 1/32. Not machine shop accurate but the drill press isn’t either. Good enough for 99% of my work.

 

[Mike Davis]

The trade off is when you need to go up to 3/4” then a 1/32 minimum gets much more expensive and harder to find.

 

[mpeele]

I would recommend that you buy a drill press with a spindle that accepts a chuck with a Morse Taper mount. That way you can easily change the chuck to match the drill bit size. A chuck that will hold a 1/16" shaft may/will not hold a 1/2" shaft as well because there is not enough contact area between the 3 jaws and shaft to keep the bit from spinning in the chuck when its under load. The force required to hold a large bit is much higher that the smaller bit. Insufficient holding force will result in damaged bit shafts. So you are going to need multiple chucks and maybe even a collet or pin chuck for very small bits (< 1/8").

A good smaller drill press would come with a MT-2 spindle. There are drill press that have a MT spindle but do not have enough travel to allow the chuck to be removed with a taper tool. I would not buy one.

When you select a chuck you want one that accepts a MT33 or JT33 taper and requires a MT33/JT33 to MT adapter. You can get one that has a fixes MT-2 mount but if you ever have a catch or bind up a bit the taper will spin in the shaft and gaul the spindle taper. If you have the MT33/JT33 it has less holding force that the MT-2 and you just have to replace the chuck and adapter not repair or replace the spindle shaft.

Drill speeds, drill bits and materials are another can of worms.

 

[tvrgeek]

I would recommend that you buy a drill press with a spindle that accepts a chuck with a Morse Taper mount. That way you can easily change the chuck to match the drill bit size. A chuck that will hold a 1/16" shaft may/will not hold a 1/2" shaft as well because there is not enough contact area between the 3 jaws and shaft to keep the bit from spinning in the chuck when its under load. The force required to hold a large bit is much higher that the smaller bit. Insufficient holding force will result in damaged bit shafts. So you are going to need multiple chucks and maybe even a collet or pin chuck for very small bits (< 1/8").

A good smaller drill press would come with a MT-2 spindle. There are drill press that have a MT spindle but do not have enough travel to allow the chuck to be removed with a taper tool. I would not buy one.

When you select a chuck you want one that accepts a MT33 or JT33 taper and requires a MT33/JT33 to MT adapter. You can get one that has a fixes MT-2 mount but if you ever have a catch or bind up a bit the taper will spin in the shaft and gaul the spindle taper. If you have the MT33/JT33 it has less holding force that the MT-2 and you just have to replace the chuck and adapter not repair or replace the spindle shaft.

Drill speeds, drill bits and materials are another can of worms.

Or integrated MT and chuck. There are a few quality ones. Key chucks lock a lot tighter than hand chucks. Just use proper procedure to snug in all three holes. I have only spun a bit in a key chuck when I was lazy and only used one hole. I constantly fought the hand chuck that I tried in my DP, and forever trash bits in my cordless drills. Maybe a $1000 hand chuck works. A $100 did not. I think my DP chuck ran about $150.

Travel is a big issue for woodworking. Most have only around 3 inches so you can't drill a 4 x 4. Rikon and Palmgren for traditional, the big Technitool if you have boo-koo bucks. The Delta spec is nice, but way too many complaints on quality. I like the Jet, but again, issues with the sheave, multi-rib which is great, but not round. If I could not afford the Nova, I would buy the Palmgren.

I keep thinking about buying a smaller precision drill press for metal work, but I am trying to do less of it. One size does not fit all.

 

[bob vaughan]

There are a lot of variables in the mix. A badly made drill press may not give the precision you want, regardless of chuck quality. Sometimes upgrading the chuck will help with precision. The more expensive the component or machine is, the more likely precision performance.

 

[tvrgeek]

And let's not forget maintaince. We should periodically pull the chuck out and clean/lube it. It is surprising how much runout a dirty chuck can have.

The big Nova is one of the very few that still has a split head to adjust quill play. At least the Palmgren publishes their tolerances where most of the generic drills do not. Of course when you move to industrial $5K or so, they tell you more. Extend the quill on different drills and feel the play. HF will flop in the wind. Each step in price gets a little better. My delta is not good enough. Diameter and thickness of the post can matter as does the flexibility in the trunion. I had a Craftsman bench top and to drill a 3/8 Forsner strait in Oak, I had to use a screw jack under the table to keep it from flexing too much. Most drills still have V belts, so they will vibrate more than you may like. Jet and Delta use multi-rib. Nova is direct drive. Even good round ( US or German ) belts don;t help if the sheave is not round or like my Delta, drilled off-center.

 

[pop-pop]

I don't have one but I believe you can get a small chuck that's got a round shaft on the opposite end. When you want to use the small bits, just mount the small chuck shaft into the large chuck and voila!

Here is one. Note that it does not work in reverse.

 

[tvrgeek]

And don't bother checking runout. The answer is "yes" Been there, done that.

 

[junquecol]

And don't bother checking runout. The answer is "yes" Been there, done that.

It's woodworking, not nuclear physics. Measure with a micrometer, mark it with a piece of chalk, and then cut it with an axe. Precision work, cause that's how it was measured.

 

[tvrgeek]

It's woodworking, not nuclear physics. Measure with a micrometer, mark it with a piece of chalk, and then cut it with an axe. Precision work, cause that's how it was measured.

You are presuming only woodworking. Not many 1/16 holes in woodworking. Flex matters as even my floor standing Delta can cause enough flex with a Forsner bit drilling deep to rough a mortice to be in error.

Woodworking tolerances are relative and can be important. The misunderstanding it they often need not be absolute.
If my mortice and tenon is 3/8 or a 25/64ths it does not matter, but the FIT does. I do a lot of picture frames. Length needs to be consistent in the thou range and miters in minuets not degrees or the corners will not match. What the length is does not matter, precision in opposite sides does. If drilling a line of holes, it is amazing how precise your eye can be if they are in line or centered. Depth stops need accuracy as a tiny difference in a countersink is noticeable.

Woodworkers need to be "makers", not just woodworkers. We make and modify our tools.

Old rule of thumb, your tools need to be 10 times better than your work. Often, 100 times is actually better.

 

[prototype3a]

I have a few Shars Tegara brand chucks in my shop now and so far, every one of them has been excellent and very nicely made. Some of the keyless ones require a hook or pin spanner wrench if you want to chuck down hard on a bit (for metal or forsteners) but at this point, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another.

I honestly wish SOMEONE would make a "Jacobs Super ball bearing Chuck" style but make the rear JT33 to fit common woodworking drill presses.

 

[pop-pop]

I honestly wish SOMEONE would make a "Jacobs Super ball bearing Chuck" style but make the rear JT33 to fit common woodworking drill presses.

Don't understand. I bought mine from McMaster-Carr. It’s on an MT2-JT3 arbor which came with it. Don’t most DPs have an MT2 spindle? Enlarge to see the SUPER CHUCK lettering. BTW, it’s a delightful chuck.