Cutting plexiglass with a bandsaw?

[areevesnc]

My sister has some wagon wheels that she’d like to use as patio table tops. I’ll build the bases out of wood, but she’d like the circular tops to be transparent.

I have a pretty good circle-cutting jig for my bandsaw, and I’m thinking about cutting some 1/4” plexiglass or similar material with it to make table tops.

Has anyone tried this? Any suggestions regarding blade, technique, etc? Or maybe there is a better option?

Thanks!
Aaron

 

[Henry W]

..... and I’m thinking about cutting some 1/4” plexiglass or similar material with it to make table tops.

Thanks!
Aaron

Aaron: Whatever you do ensure that the material you choose is suitable for exterior use, especially for sun exposure. Materials differ widely in the tolerance for the elements, especially UV/sunshine. The specific materials also have different melt points (your feed speed in the cut is an important factor, and slower is not necessarily better) and the likelhood of crazing during cuts, to name two factors. Do your homework on the specifics of materials. Too many options for me to be specific.

Note that I have very little experience, except I have 'melted' sheet goods with both a tablesaw and a jigsaw. Hopefully others can be specific in recommendations rather than just precautions.

 

[Echd]

I prefer o flute router bits with a really fast feed rate for a clean cut. You can get a 1/4 o flute off amazon for very little money. I've definitely cut various types with a bandsaw as well with okay results, but it's not my preference, at least for a regular shape like a circle.

That said on some clear plastics you can clean a burned edge by torching it with a butane torch and then polishing.

 

[Mike Davis]

I worked in a plastics factory for a couple months. We always cut with a router then burned the edge with butane. Always got perfect clear smooth edges.

 

[Henry W]

Oh and the swarf ('sawdust') from some these materials gets 'static cling' and sticks to everything - doesn't drop to the floor like wood sawdust.

 

[mpeele]

If you cut it with a band saw you'll have to sand it and then flame treat the edge to remove sanding scratches to get a clear edge. If you use a router us a O-flute bit.

 

[Henry W]

... use a O-flute bit.

What is that?

 

[areevesnc]

What is that?

I wasn’t familiar with O-flute bits either, but based on a little investigation this afternoon, it looks like they are specially designed for plastics and aluminum.

I already like the idea of using a router better than a bandsaw. I’ll give that a try.

Thanks, everyone!

 

[Echd]

If you haven't tried an o flute in wood, give it a shot there as well. They can cut very fast, very clean, and oddly enough- extremely quietly. You will be amazed at how quiet they are compared to a 2 flute carbide or traditional bit, at least at the feed rates we reach on router tables, with hand routers, or with home gamer level cncs.

 

[mpeele]

What is that?

Amana Tool AMS-195-K CNC SC Spektra Extreme Tool Life Coated Plastic Cutting Spiral O Flute 1/4 Inch SHK Router Bit Pack

Get longer tool life and superior surface finish with Amana Tool's CNC SC Spektra Extreme Tool Life Coated Plastic Cutting Spiral O Flute Router Bit Pack.

toolstoday.com

 

[Wilsoncb]

I used to cut plexiglass (acrylic) letters on the bandsaw with a metal or high pitch count blade. Lexan is much more forgiving and typically has UV protection…but more expensive.

 

[mkepke]

Plexi cuts fine on a bandsaw. Just keep thin stuff well supported near the blade so it doesn't 'flap'.

It seems to me that scratching and UV are going to be a problem. Maybe hit them with a couple coats of a 2K clearcoat for additional protection.

-Mark

 

[Dee2]

Last time I cut 1/2" plexiglass/Lexan I roughed it on the bandsaw and tuned it with a router. I'm no expert. YMMV.

 

[HITCH-]

I work in the plastic industry.
There are 2 material options :acrylic and polycarbonate.
Acrylic is harder and less prone to scratching than polycarbonate. There are coated versions of both acrylic and polycarbonate that have hard topcoats to reduce scratching.
Polycarbonate is softer and has a higher impact resistance. Polycarbonate is also going to yellow over time. There are UV filtering forms of polycarbonate. This is to filter the UV rays and protect what is on the other side of the substrate not to protect the polycarbonate itself.
Given all of these considerations, acrylic would be the best choice for your application. You could cut it with a bandsaw but I would recommend using a router.
You will also have to choose between cast acrylic and extruded acrylic. Cast acrylic is harder to flame polish but it is more resistant to scratches.
Lastly, is the choice of masking. You will want paper masking rather than film for routing and flame polishing.

Here is a link to an acrylic fabrication manual from Plaskolite : https://plaskolite.com/docs/default-source/fab/fab004_opx_extruded.pdf

 

[ErinJ]

What size blade are you running?