Chisels and hand planes

[jlyates777]

Any recommendations on chisels?

Also how do you determine what hand plane you have if it doesn't have markings? My grandfather gave me a hand plane but not sure if it is a #4 or #5 or what not. Does it matter if it is a #4 or 6 or 7 when it comes to the blade? Just thinking if I need to order a replacement blade is all.

 

[zdorsch]

Overall plan size and style can help tell you what kind of plane. Brand also helps to identify. If you have pictures, someone on this site can help to identify.

This may help:

How To Identify Stanley Hand Plane Age And Type (Type Study Tool) | Wood And Shop

Stanley Plane Identification and Stanley Plane Dating: What year and type is your Stanley Bailey handplane? Find out with this Stanley Bailey Plane Type Study. Helpful for Traditional Woodworkers and eBay sellers.

woodandshop.com

 

[mdbuntyn]

For chisels, Narex is a good value brand with options at a few different price points.

Numbered metal planes generally take their numbers and sizes from the planes that Leonard Bailey developed (Stanley later formed a short-lived partnership with Bailey and bought the rights to those plane designs). Some companies used Bailey's design, but not his numbering system. There is some interchangeability with blades, assuming designs based on Bailey and Bed Rock planes: #3 & #5¼; #4 & #5; #4½, #5½ (after 1939), #6, & #7

For a detailed overview of the planes that Stanley manufactured, check out: The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood & Gore: Preface

 

[Burly John]

I've used a set of blue-handled Marples chisels for 50+ years and been quite happy with them. I DO have a Narex 10 mm mortise chisel and a 12 mm paring chisel and think they're quite good. You might find Chris Schwarz's comments interesting: What Makes a Good Chisel

And Patrick's Blood & Gore (link above) is really the best source for information about Stanley's line of planes. Yes, the blade width does vary, although I think the #6 and #7 both use a 2 3/8" wide blade, while the #4 uses a 2" wide blade.

 

[Echd]

I have several sets of no name chisels, some mid range newer stanleys, the mid range narex line, and a handful of the narex Richter. I reach for the richters most often but they all work fine. The Richter did come with better edges and didn't need much flattening, but flattening is a one time chore anyway and you gotta know how to sharpen regardless.

So I essentially just gave you a useless non answer, but as long as you like the handles, and don't mind touching up an edge more frequently, even the cheap ones are fine.

I like this guy's videos because he isn't trying to sell you stuff all the time.

Rex Krueger on cheap chisels

 

[jlyates777]

I have several sets of no name chisels, some mid range newer stanleys, the mid range narex line, and a handful of the narex Richter. I reach for the richters most often but they all work fine. The Richter did come with better edges and didn't need much flattening, but flattening is a one time chore anyway and you gotta know how to sharpen regardless.

So I essentially just gave you a useless non answer, but as long as you like the handles, and don't mind touching up an edge more frequently, even the cheap ones are fine.

I like this guy's videos because he isn't trying to sell you stuff all the time.

Rex Krueger on cheap chisels

Thank you.

 

[jlyates777]

For chisels, Narex is a good value brand with options at a few different price points.

Numbered metal planes generally take their numbers and sizes from the planes that Leonard Bailey developed (Stanley later formed a short-lived partnership with Bailey and bought the rights to those plane designs). Some companies used Bailey's design, but not his numbering system. There is some interchangeability with blades, assuming designs based on Bailey and Bed Rock planes: #3 & #5¼; #4 & #5; #4½, #5½ (after 1939), #6, & #7

For a detailed overview of the planes that Stanley manufactured, check out: The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood & Gore: Preface

Thanks some good information.

 

[Gofor]

When it comes to ordering additional blades, you would be best to measure the blade width and thickness that you have, and go from there. Most other brands have followed the Stanly/bailey design, and have two widths. The 2" wide blade (aka the iron) fits the smaller planes (up to #5), while the #6 and above have 2 3/8" wide blades. The exceptions are the 1/2 sizes, where the wider blade is put on the shorter plane. (Ex: the #5 has a 2" blade, but the #5 1/2 takes the 2 3/8" blade). The # designation refers to the length of the plane's sole. The larger the number, the longer the sole.

To start with, you may want to stay away from some of the after market blades like Hock brand. They are excellent blades but they are much thicker. When installing them, you will have to adjust the frog (the thing the blade lays on) and fitting it so that it will clear the mouth of the plane when extended can be a problem. Not to say don't get them, but it will easier to start with an OEM style iron.

Another thing when buying a replacement blade is the quality. Most of the inexpensive replacements have deep tool marks on the back side (as well as the bevel) which must be smoothed/flattened out for the blade to work well. This is a time consuming process, but necessary. The money you save is offset by the effort required to make it usable. Once smoothed and flattened, it take minimum effort to touch up when resharpening.

If just getting into planes and wood chisels,you would be well served to research proper sharpening. This is a skill you will need to keep them functioning well. Several members here offer sharpening classes occasionally that will greatly reduce your learning curve. Dull chisels and planes are a gateway to an extensive curse word vocabulary.

To save the handles on the chisels, you will need to acquire or make a proper mallet.

Welcome to the slippery slope of hand tools.

 

[Rwe2156]

Chisel selection depends on what you want - general work or dovetails. I started out with a set of Irwin Marples. They aren’t bad chisels - once you get the backs flat, which is a half day ordeal. I used them for many years ans till domas “firmer” chisels. Not the greatest for dovetails, very good for mortises, in fact they can replace a mortise chisel.

My second set was Narex. There are a couple variations - “premium” is what you want for dovetails. Lower side bevel height than the standard hooped handled version.

Side bevel height, or the height of the edge, is an important consideration for dovetails.

I’ve acquired 3 sizes of Lie Nielsen, and truthfully, they are all I want to use now.

What’s the budget? Narex Richter’s have gained an excellent rep, as well as WoodRiver.

 

[jlyates777]

So I found out the hand plane my grandfather gave me is a miller's falls no 9 smoothing plane. Which after research I have found it is compared to the stanley no4. Through my research I found the history of which type and when it was made. It is a type 3 made between 1942 and 48. But due to the castong # on the frog it was and early production type 3. So most likely from 1942 to 1945