Box Elder ??

DSWalker

David
Corporate Member
I'm going to be making a desk for my grandson and he is a huge NC State fan.

Thought about flaming box elder for the top, but I know nothing about this wood.

Does the red color fade? I thought this could be for a cool top for a State fan. Is it a hardwood? Pros/Cons appreciated.

Any local sources?
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
Its diffuse porous like maple. Its about as soft as poplar. The red can fade if left in the sunlight. I gave away a box elder bowl to a friend telling him that the red would likely fade. It didn't in 15 to 20 years but that's because he kept it in a corner that got no sunlight I think.

AKA: Ash Leaf Maple.

Funny aside: That friend had a good bit of property and he was quite a woodsman. He cut down a box elder tree and was blocking the log. He looked down and saw blood red shavings coming out. He jumped up and felt all over his body to see where the blood was coming from. He said it gave him quite a moment or terror. At that time he didn't know about the red streaks in box elder. To him, it was just another trash tree at his fence line.
 

HITCH-

Hitch
Corporate Member
I remember hearing about a Turner who painted the box elder red markings onto his bowls so that they would not fade. You could try a faux box elder top if you want to avoid any fading.
 

Bill_L

Bill
Corporate Member
I've only seen it at Woodcraft (I'm in the Raleigh area and shop there, Hardwood Store of NC, and Capital City Lumber). My son bought a couple live edge pieces from Woodcraft. I've included a picture of the smaller board / coasters that he made. Really easy to work with. You could always use bloodwood if you can't find the flaming box elder. Though bloodwood is extremely hard and you can find varying colors of it too.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6497 (1).jpeg
    IMG_6497 (1).jpeg
    935.1 KB · Views: 147

John Jimenez

JJ
Corporate Member
Hi David. I used flaming box elder to make our dining room table. It’s going on 4 years old and it hasn’t faded. I finished it with Rubio monocoat. As I understand, it is a type of maple but it is softer than maple. The flame color comes from a release of chemicals by the tree to kill algae that grows in the holes left by beetles. My brothers grand kids were drawing pictures with a ballpoint pen on some paper and it left some light indents in the table top. It was pretty pricy. Hopes this helps.

1706284787303.png
 

J_Graham

Graham
Corporate Member
I have a couple board feet for small projects. And I will say, expect to fill lots of bug holes since that's what gives its color. I might look into accenting a white table top with red Grandis or red heart, much more consistent.
That being said I know of a sawyer in upstate SC who has a good supply of it.
 

kgordon22

New User
Gordo
Hi David. I used flaming box elder to make our dining room table. It’s going on 4 years old and it hasn’t faded. I finished it with Rubio monocoat. As I understand, it is a type of maple but it is softer than maple. The flame color comes from a release of chemicals by the tree to kill algae that grows in the holes left by beetles. My brothers grand kids were drawing pictures with a ballpoint pen on some paper and it left some light indents in the table top. It was pretty pricy. Hopes this helps.

View attachment 225610
Hey John,
I have a red flame table I made that is very similar to yours. I’m dreading the finishing process and wanted to know which color Rubio Monocoat you used?
 

John Jimenez

JJ
Corporate Member
Hey John,
I have a red flame table I made that is very similar to yours. I’m dreading the finishing process and wanted to know which color Rubio Monocoat you used?
I used Rubio monocoat pure after sanding to 220. I know Rubio will tell you that you only need to go to 120 but I went to 220 water popping it in between. Then after the 220 hit it with mineral spirits. Then apply the Rubio pure with a scotchbrite pad then wipe the excess off with lint free rag and wait 10 min then buff with terry cloth. Lately I have been waiting 24 hours after applying Rubio and then using their new maintenance oil which takes the sheen from matte finish to a nice satin. Just remember a little Rubio goes a long way. I use syringes to measure out each of the 2 parts into a small cup and mix that with a tongue depresser. Sorry if this is confusing. Any questions just fire away. Also, remember it takes 7 days to fully cure assuming you use the part B accelerator.
 

kgordon22

New User
Gordo
T
I used Rubio monocoat pure after sanding to 220. I know Rubio will tell you that you only need to go to 120 but I went to 220 water popping it in between. Then after the 220 hit it with mineral spirits. Then apply the Rubio pure with a scotchbrite pad then wipe the excess off with lint free rag and wait 10 min then buff with terry cloth. Lately I have been waiting 24 hours after applying Rubio and then using their new maintenance oil which takes the sheen from matte finish to a nice satin. Just remember a little Rubio goes a long way. I use syringes to measure out each of the 2 parts into a small cup and mix that with a tongue depresser. Sorry if this is confusing. Any questions just fire away. Also, remember it takes 7 days to fully cure assuming you use the part B accelerator.
Not confusing at all. Thank you for the thorough reply. I initially used Waterlocks Polyurethane, but I have failed miserably. Nothing but streaks. My plan is to sand to bare wood and started from scratch. My table is 7.5’ by 4’ and my only concern using Rubio is it setting before I can wipe the excess off. It probably won’t be an issue, but I’m really trying not to spend anymore hours of my life sanding a bad finish job! I’m hoping it will look as good as your table.
 

John Jimenez

JJ
Corporate Member
T

Not confusing at all. Thank you for the thorough reply. I initially used Waterlocks Polyurethane, but I have failed miserably. Nothing but streaks. My plan is to sand to bare wood and started from scratch. My table is 7.5’ by 4’ and my only concern using Rubio is it setting before I can wipe the excess off. It probably won’t be an issue, but I’m really trying not to spend anymore hours of my life sanding a bad finish job! I’m hoping it will look as good as your table.
Thanks for the compliment. I totally understand your frustration. Just sand off the poly and sand the table to 220. Rubio sells a “conditioner” for a lot of money but it’s really just mineral spirits. Just be sure to get all the poly off. When you go to apply Rubio, you have about 10-15 minutes before it starts to congeal….you won’t have a problem. I have been using Rubio for years now and still haven’t figured out how not to mix too much…I always have a little left over in the cup. Spread it using the yellow spatula thingy majiggy that comes with it and then rub it in with the scotch brite pad. I put a scotch brite pad on my ROS which makes the job much easier. Then wipe any excess then buff with terry cloth. Check out this wood whisperer video on how to apply…he does a real good job explaining I think. Just be extra sure that you get all the poly off because that’s the main thing that could jack up your Rubio finish. Good luck…hit me back if any other questions…it will look great!

 

PhilErup

New User
PhilErup
Flaming box elder is cool but can fade with sunlight. It's a hardwood but can dent easily. Try Woodcraft or Rockler.
 

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

Top