Applying hinges

[lwhughes149]

Nothing can be more frustrating than to complete a project and find you can't get the doors to close with ease. I have just completed a tall wall unit for a kitchen and have two sets of doors with a convection oven going into the middle space. I am using 3/8th inset finale hinges. Does anyone have tips and suggestions that would make this an easier process. I remember having to do a lot of adjustments when I used the same hinges on my china cabinet. Thanks
Lorraine

 

[Joe Scharle]

Lorraine, are these 'sets' composed of a LH and a RH door that meet in the middle?
Are your hinges spring loaded or no-mortise?

Regardless of type, I use shim strips to center the doors in the opening and I try to install doors while the case is lying on it's back, if possible. The most difficult to install is the spring loaded type because the spring is fighting the door from being flush. So, the easirst way to get around that is to mount the hinge to the face frame first, mark the back of the door where the hinge mounts there, then open the door and hinge and use the marks to align the hinge.

However, if that's not possible, I use spacers (hot glue will keep them in place and the strips pop off when done) on the door top/bottom/mating edges. Attach the hinges to the doors, remount in the opening and have someone apply force to flatten the hinges. Use a self-centering bit, drill one hole in the middle, drive the screws. The doors should open and close stiffly. If so, pop off the shim stock. If the doors still open/close freely; drill & drive the rest of the screws.

Hopefully, someone who does this more than twice a year will offer a better solution.

 

[lwhughes149]

Joe, thanks for the reply. I am a visual person so seeing something makes things much easier for me, however, I am trying to follow your explaination. I have two doors that are routered on the inside of the door to accept a hinge that is 3/8 inch where finale will be seen when the doors are closed. I put the first set on and found that they were tight when trying to close them. I have yet to start the second set of doors. The doors fit without the hinge, the doors are square so that isn't a problem. What are these spacers you referred to? I am having a difficult time seeing your process. Am I attaching a stick-on spacer to the cabinet and to the door and also attaching it to the hinges? If this is the case, then the spacers would hold the hinges in place while I drill the holes. Did I read you correct? If this is correct, where would I get the spacers or would carpet tape work?

 

[Joe Scharle]

How about a pic?

 

[ehpoole]

I could be wrong, but I believe Joe is using shims to center a flush european-style cabinet door in its cabinet (or a traditional cabinet door with rabetted edges that partially recess inside the cabinet. Atleast that is the image that comes to my mind when reading the post?

Unfortunately, my experience with hinges is limited, so I'm not too comfortable offering suggestions at this point, but I am sure others will chime in -- hopefully with some photos for you to follow as well.

Good luck!

 

[lwhughes149]

I will try pics tomorrow but I will need help putting them on the site. Till tomorrow.

 

[Joe Scharle]

I could be wrong, but I believe Joe is using shims to center a flush european-style cabinet door in its cabinet (or a traditional cabinet door with rabetted edges that partially recess inside the cabinet. Atleast that is the image that comes to my mind when reading the post?

Unfortunately, my experience with hinges is limited, so I'm not too comfortable offering suggestions at this point, but I am sure others will chime in -- hopefully with some photos for you to follow as well.

Good luck!

Ethan's right. The shims are to both center and freeze the doors in place.

 

[ScottM]

Stop by and I will help with the pics....You can see the new shop WIP.

 

[Gofor]

IF I understood you correctly, the hinges (like I used on my shop cabinets pictured in my gallery) will cause the hinge side of the door to set out 1/8" unless you dadoed into the side of the rabbet. If this is the case, you may need to take about 1 saw thin kerf off the inside of the dado (width, not depth) on the hinge side dado to allow for the hinge metal thickness. The hinge wrapping around the dadoed recess is pushing the doors to the center.

I am sorry I do not have any pictures of the hinges installed.

HTH

Go

 

[lwhughes149]

Mark, I think you have have it. I hung these hinges on a countertop display cabinet in a kitchen several weeks ago without problems. I am also thinking I need to take a slight bit off the cut in the back of the door. I think my cut isn't enough. I took a couple of days off to clear my head, will let you know how it turns out. Thanks to all. Lorraine